Drip rail sealer alternatives?

[cornerstone]

I have heard of several failed attempts when it comes to using the right product to seal the drip rail. Has anyone ever had long term success with using a quality body filler? Mainly I'm asking because I have plenty already on hand, and to get both kinds of 2 part epoxy plus the applicator gun I'd be out another Benjamin...

[notsolo]

I used epoxy primer, then Sika flex 1a polyurethane caulk.. $7.00....this is also used to bed new windshields. About the same as 3m 5200....Not what everyone else uses but it works for me....Body putty is not flexable.BTW..

[Grumpy old man]

NO BODY FILLER . Eastwood makes a flow grade 2 part seam sealer that works in a regular caulking gun . I bought the 3M and the 200 ml gun (together about $90.00 ) and it worked great but I found the Eastwood product after I was done

The 2 part flow grade worked great DON"T USE ANY MASKING TAPE it's easy to apply and there's just no need for it ,EXCEPT at the bottom of the drip rail to keep it from flowing down the side of your truck , I'll get a few pictures . You don't need to fill the rail . The factory didn't and you don't need too either .


Oh yeah, Be ready to seal it all in a few minutes it kicks off pretty fast . I had small 3 step stools on both sides of the truck

WATCH the Eastwood videos

https://www.eastwood.com/ew-2k-self-...cartridge.html

[cornerstone]

Originally Posted by notsolo

I used epoxy primer, then Sika flex 1a polyurethane caulk.. $7.00....this is also used to bed new windshields. About the same as 3m 5200....Not what everyone else uses but it works for me....Body putty is not flexable.BTW..

Thanks... I hadn't thought about the need for flexibility.

[Grumpy old man]

3M 5200 is marine adhesive caulk and doesn't come close to working well on drip rails as flow grade 2 part .

[ga-stepside]

I have used Loctite Black Polyurethane Roof and Flashing Sealant on two different cars for exactly this as well as other sealant needs. It is paintable and smooths out very easily. It has been on my Z for 9 years and my AMX for well over 5 years without any issues. You can get it at Home Depot and uses a regular caulking gun.

[Grumpy old man]

Come on guys , Marine and roofing caulk ?

[cornerstone]

Thanks for all the replies gentlemen! If the stuff has all the right properties and can save a benjamin, I wouldn't care if it was denture glue....

[Grumpy old man]

[ga-stepside]

Originally Posted by Grumpy old man

Come on guys , Marine and roofing caulk ?

Urethane sealer is Urethane sealer. I did not just try this because it is cheap, it was recommended to me by a top auto painting shop as an economical seam sealer that will hold up to weather conditions. Like I said it has been on my Z for 9 years under a PPG paint job no cracking, no shrinking, no discoloration. What make you think Eastwood males a better product than Loctite?

[Grumpy old man]

You don't have to mask or work the 2 part flow grade , it does all the work for you . and if you level the cab before installing you'll have smooth natural run off from the drip rail and it's done in 10 minutes . Use whatever works for you .

[rockyrivermark]

Omg don't use black jack. Geese.
3m makes a self leveling Seam sealer that works fantastic.
Looks real smooth.
On side by the doors I brushed it a few times as it set up so it didn't run
Was smooth and looked great painted

[custom10nut]

Sub’d For future reference

[vitamin_c95]

awesome info. One of the jobs mine needs, but have not researched yet.

[Grumpy old man]

No need to mask ,flows great , sandable , This is the 3M , Eastwoods works the same and you don't need a 200 ml dual cartridge gun .

[BlazerBill]

Is that Nancy Pelosi on the bitter grip box? Grumpy you are spot on! Spot sand blast to remove any rust.

[Grumpy old man]

I used my oscillating glass tool to clean the drip rails out works a lot faster than chipping away with a screw driver , Once cleaned and epoxy primed ,and sanded with 320 your ready for sealer .

[Red71gmc]

Good info.

[MDPotter]

Eastwood 2 part self-leveling epoxy. It flows out on its own, so be careful approaching the ends as it will run down.

[GASoline71]

I used 3M self leveling sealer (2 part epoxy #08307). Bought it off of Amazon for 40 bucks a tube. Flows great and comes with 2 mixing nozzles. I bought 2 tubes just in case. Knowing what I know now I would have only bought one, as I filled the drip rail pretty full and needed the second tube. But I think it can be done with 1 tube.

When i searched for the stuff on Amazon it showed in their "frequently bought together" area on the product. It had a link to a 2 part epoxy applicator gun. Reviews seemed pretty solid, so I bought it. Cox Industries 2-part applicator (#M200LVMR) worked fantastic and made applying the sealer a snap.

I will tell you though, if you have any areas taped off and the sealer gets above, or layed over the tape, don't wait too long to removed the tape. This stuff was level and set up in about 3 minutes! I had layed tape for the primer I sprayed and then like a dummy, I didn't pull the tape. So I had to dig a bit of it out and then lay a teeny bit of sealer back in. But I am very happy with the results.



Gary

[Grumpy old man]

I used 3M self leveling sealer (2 part epoxy #08307) So did I . You don't want it to overlap any masking tape . Before you start shoot a small amount onto some card board to see how much it flows and how fast it cures . Drip rail seal is what these 2 products were designed for , There really is no reason to use anything else to finish off your drip rails . I was able to do mine and still have a bit left over using 1 tube . The only place I masked was at the bottom of the drip rail to catch any run off from the back of the rail . I started at the center and slowly using a Z pattern with the tip of the gun in the sealer ( to prevent air bubbles ) and laid a bead down . Just remember it's going to begin to cure pretty fast so you want to move with purpose and get to the other side of the cab so the center sealer matches the side you've already done . You'll spend hours cleaning out the rail then priming and sanding before the sealer goes in and your done in 10 minutes .

[B. W.]

What's the best way to get the proper thickness of sealer to flow down the vertical part of the drip rail?
How do you stop the sealer at the bottom of the drip rail?

I'm probably over thinking this but I'm concerned it will be too thin then it will puddle at the bottom if I tape it off.

[cornerstone]

Thanks guys.... the only area of concern that I still have is the vertical portion and the transition to the horizontal part. If the stuff is viscous enough to level out quickly, it would make sense that it would run down the cab and flow out of the drip rail channel. I did read that Rockyrivermark said he brushed it upwards a few times and it worked out fine. I believe him... I just can’t stop thinking it would stick to the brush as well and get messy. What am I missing Mark?

[GASoline71]

Originally Posted by B. W.

What's the best way to get the proper thickness of sealer to flow down the vertical part of the drip rail?
How do you stop the sealer at the bottom of the drip rail?

I'm probably over thinking this but I'm concerned it will be too thin then it will puddle at the bottom if I tape it off.

I jacked the rear of my truck up so the front rail was fairly level. Not sure if that's correct, but that's what I did. I did as grump did, on the front of the drip rail, but I stopped at the downward curve of the rail. Then I started about 1/3 up from the bottom of the vertical part of the rail until I met where I left off at the curve. It ran down to the bottom with no problem. I also used some tape to mask off and catch any residual at the bottom, and there wasn't a whole lot that ran below the bottom of the rail.

Mine came out looking alright, but now knowing how this stuff flows and how quick it hardens. I will go from the middle of the front rail and go all the way around and down past the downward curve and stop about 2/3rds of the way down the vertical rail to let the rest run down the back. Then quickly move over to do the other side.

The thickness of the vertical part turned out just fine as it doesn't flow all that fast and leaves a good bead that filled in the pinch welded area.

Gary

[B. W.]

Thanks Gary, that's what I needed to know.

Brian, sorry for jackin' your thread, I've been wondering how I was going to do this & these guys had some great info.