Need help 1967 Chevy c20 250 inline 6 all original project. Just want reliable truck.

[54blackhornet]

Justin you might be able to find a good hei on our parts board. Same for the intake/exhaust ! Lots of folks swap I6 for V8’s.

[michael bustamante]

I cant believe nobody has recommended this but I would strongly suggest switching to an HEI. thatll be the easiest and most economical upgrade you can do to these 250`s.
Also, is the exhaust manifold cracked or is the exhaust donut, (where the flange is) just worn out?

[kazoocruiser]

Originally Posted by Justin1983

Hello everyone I'm 36 years old and don't know much about these older style trucks but I have done alot of research.
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Welcome to the forum.

What I have is a 67 inline 6 with all original everything, it's my dad's truck that my grandpa bought new. It has 80,000 original miles on it.



The carb as never been worked on. (NEW SENTENCE) It starts and runs but it's coughing and backfire like crazy. Stalls not to reliable.
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Are you a mechanic? Do you have tools, especially prior experience with tractor repair? Because that is what I have in a 1981 C-10 and pretty much you have in the inline 6 in your 1967. Years before that. And from personal experience, it looks like you have a few priorities ahead of your wants about your recent gift.

What you should probably do instead is sit down with a pen and piece of paper and decide what you want to invest in this free truck. What is your budget?

A tinker-toy.

I would think safety is the most important concern. It doesn't matter how fast the truck will go if you run out of runway because the brakes failed. Let's see, do the math 2019-1967 = 52 years old. Probably drums all the way around, and sorely in need of safety inspection, preferably by you, with lots of pictures. Money, money, money, if you want to save money and buy tools instead, and earn the experience.

While the vehicle is stationary, with you with inventory paper in hand, list the brake parts needed.

Then, under the hood, look for broken vacuum lines, a clogged air filter, condition of points and plugs, and vacuum leaks. You may have more than one.

Add all of that up and start investing in those items, first.

Secondly, from years of experience, I can absolutely guarantee that the first time you blast down the road with a performance anything hung off the side of that 52-year-old engine, the first time you let off on the gas you will start seeing big blue clouds of smoke that just won't seem to stop coming from your tailpipe. I will tell you why. It is really likely the valve seals will disintegrate with the age on them and you will start sucking oil into the combustion chamber via the intake valves and 80,000 miles on the guides.

It doesn't stop there. Your 1967 truck was built to run on LEADED fuel. It may not even have hardened seats in the head to resist the erosion that the lead in the fuel used to prevent. At 80,000 miles, maybe the valves need to be adjusted. That might account for some of your issues.

It gets worse. Your 1967 carburetor, and all of the rubber lines that feed it, use material that wasn't designed for alcohol-blended fuel. So there is an additional expense.

What I want to do is put a new offenhauser intake mainfold with hedman headers with a Holly 390 ,
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More money for an intake, because you haven't found a carburetor yet. How do you know you have a bad carburetor? Maybe the only problem is that the points need to be adjusted, instead. Do you have any idea when the last set of points was put in? If you can stick an allen key into the distributor window, if you know what that is, while the engine is idling. Then, you can twist the adjuster to open the points, which may be all you need to do to an othewise unmolested truck. I think the allen key is a 5/16"


Change the fuel filter.


just WANNA use this truck for fishing and camping and hauling wood got the 4 speed manual transmission. I don't know if I'm going about it right.
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I understand bits and pieces. But I'm gonna need alot of advise from YOU the ppl that know best. I understand the intake manifold needs a heat source being I live in Minnesota. And I found a $30 plate they sell for it.All fine stuff like materials I need I don't quite know yet. I wish there was a list of the things I needded to have to get the job done RIGHT not half assed . Like the gaskets , do u use separate gaskets for the headers and mainfold ? Stuff like that. Or the studs for the headers.. clearance of the carb.Not going for show or speed. Just WANNA reliable truck that sounds bad ass and runs like a top. WANNA start ordering parts Sunday and get the ball rolling. Step by step detailed help would be very much appreciated. Let me know ur thoughts as I do spend alot of time trying to find these ansey

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Fix what is needed to get the reliability back, and save up for the future projects. There are a lot of ways to spend money the wrong way, and you as a 36-year-old I think can agree a conservative approach to your project is not a bad idea.

[Jason Banks]

Originally Posted by Justin1983

Wondering if this part has the heat flap in it https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...+manifold,5860

Yes that manifold has the heat flap in it. You can find my review on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/ATP-Automotiv...ews/B000IYCY3E

[swb4me]

Originally Posted by Justin1983

What do u guys think of replacing the gas tank to make sure everything is clean? Or is that all BS?

A new tank and sending unit is one of the first things I replace when I buy a classic vehicle. The tank and sending unit shipped to your door will be about $200. The hassle of cleaning and sealing an old tank just doesn't make sense to me.
By the way I have a 250 in my 67 that I drive 300 miles a week. It's totally stock and runs great.

[bill3rail]

Originally Posted by Justin1983

What do u guys think of replacing the gas tank to make sure everything is clean? Or is that all BS?

Open it up to see what it looks like inside. No reason to replace unless it is required.

Bill