GRRRR!!!! 68 C10 Electrical problems again!!

[HIGHWAY BY THE SEA]

This weekend when I was on my trip to Georgia to visit Maddkidd007 and pick up my wheels, my wife borrowed my 68 stepside (the ONLY time I have ever allowed her to drive it). It inexplicably lost all power while she was driving it, so upon my return home today I checked under the hood. The battery has a FULL charge, and I can find no popped fuses in the fusible links either. Even the headlights do not work!! ARRRGGGHH!!!!!
Then she borrowed my 81 C10 stepside and it did EXACTLY the same thing (after it was parked). I have not had a chance to go see it at her work place yet so I am just as clueless. Double ARRRGGHHHH!!!

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by HIGHWAY BY THE SEA

This weekend when I was on my trip to Georgia to visit Maddkidd007 and pick up my wheels, my wife borrowed my 68 stepside (the ONLY time I have ever allowed her to drive it). It inexplicably lost all power while she was driving it, so upon my return home today I checked under the hood. The battery has a FULL charge, and I can find no popped fuses in the fusible links either. Even the headlights do not work!! ARRRGGGHH!!!!!
Then she borrowed my 81 C10 stepside and it did EXACTLY the same thing (after it was parked). I have not had a chance to go see it at her work place yet so I am just as clueless. Double ARRRGGHHHH!!!

Not sure what you mean by fuses in the fusible links. The fusible link wire that would affect what you are seeing would be the one from the battery positive post to the junction block on the passenger side front fender.

LockDoc

[HIGHWAY BY THE SEA]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

Not sure what you mean by fuses in the fusible links. The fusible link wire that would affect what you are seeing would be the one from the battery positive post to the junction block on the passenger side front fender.

LockDoc

When I had my electrical fire Easter before last, the mechanic made me new alternator/electrical wires that have multiple fuses in them to avoid any future fires. I guess I will check that wire again tomorrow in the daylight.

[rpmerf]

Sounds like time for a test light to figure out where you do have power and where you don't. Start at the battery and work your way to the fuse box and ignition switch. Don't forget to check grounds also. Make sure your battery connections are clean and tight.

[HIGHWAY BY THE SEA]

Found the problem on the 81 C10. It is a defective battery kill switch. But the 68 C10 is still a mystery. I did not get any power reading on the main red wire closest to the firewall with my voltmeter, so when I am not working this week I will be unwrapping electrical tape under the hood.

[drew8mc]

I had the same thing happen to me in my '68. Lost everything while driving in the middle of heavy traffic with no shoulder. For me, it turned out to be a bad connection at the positive battery terminal. Jumped out, jiggled the wire, and it started right back up. I'm about to replace those battery cables.

[firedemon]

the main red wire at the fuse box runs to a crimp where there are 4 or 5 wires crimped and soldered together near the driver side headlight in the main harness then theres a red wire from there to the little junction block next to the battery . it runs through the plastic gutter on the radiator support with the passenger side headlights and amp guage wire if it has gauges . then it has a fuseable link from the junction block to the battery post . start at the junction block and work back to the fuse box .its already broken down into small sections if you do it that way and you shouldn't have to unwrap the whole harness just the corner by the headlight where the factory crimp is . the factory crimp is usually the only thing inside the harness that is wrapped with tape . mine was a little closer to the headlight than back towards the bulkhead (fusebox) . your previous mechanic added fuses to your alternator wire get rid of the fuses and use a fuseable link a fuse can cause problems because the holders can sometimes loosen up over time become corroded and with the amps the alt produces can heat up and cause lots of resistance . I have seen fuses catch fire usually due to a bigger problem but because your opening things and checking id upgrade to a 8 guage wire with a 12 guage fuseable link for the alternator to the crimp next to the driver side headlight . take your time and solder the link and shrink tube it butt connectors will work but its the same as using a fuse over time they corrode and loosen up causing lots of resistance or just a loss of power . a fuseable link is just 4 size smaller wire with a coating that will usually melt rather than catch fire usually around 6 inches long . usually a link will handle more overcurrent than a fuse for longer so if your blowing links you have a real problem .

[toolboxchev]

50 year old electrical work??? You would benefit by going through it yourself. There is wiring schematics on this site and plenty of helpful people.

Your mechanic whom did the previous fix I would suggest to forget about. It did not work the first time. Obviously he would like to see your wallet again.

Most of the better part of this site you will find people fixing problems and keeping them going on their own, that is one of the reasons we own them, one of the main reasons.