This is why you always pull wheel bearings

[72c20customcamper]

I'm doing my rear wheel cylinders , while the drums are off I decided to pull the bearings. Right side all good . Left inner good the outer not so much.

[michael bustamante]

a lil extra work now saves ALOT of work later

[Seanext]

As my Dad use to say it is called Homework. If you do it at home you won't be sitting beside the road doing it.

[special-K]

While you're in there, it's time to check. Good simple rule. I'm not good at 30k maintenance but figure I'm down to the hubs often enough for that to dictate my interval.

I'm in the reverse situation. I got into doing my rear brakes thinking I needed wheel cylinders but discovered bad axle seals, on my '72 K2500/Dana60. Now I'm debating getting into the wheel cylinders since they are ok. Sure, if I do them now it 'should' be that much longer before needing them again. But they could hold up for years and there would be no bleeding needed at this time. I'm changing the shoes one way or another. I sure have gotten lazy. There used to be no question, do it all. Aw heck, I know my luck. I'll go ahead and do them... and the rear hose I also bought. Besides, I wouldn't want it to appear like I'd rather sit here and type about it than do the work (waiting on a 2 3/8" socket to show up)

[72c20customcamper]

Just fabed up a tool to press in the race. Had to order the bearing and race suppose to be be in tomorrow afternoon. Schedule 40 steel pipe squared up the end and put a compher on it. Won't do it till Wednesday though, going to throw the race into the chest freezer overnight. Then it should slide in alot easier.

[72c20customcamper]

Originally Posted by special-K

While you're in there, it's time to check. Good simple rule. I'm not good at 30k maintenance but figure I'm down to the hubs often enough for that to dictate my interval.

I'm in the reverse situation. I got into doing my rear brakes thinking I needed wheel cylinders but discovered bad axle seals, on my '72 K2500/Dana60. Now I'm debating getting into the wheel cylinders since they are ok. Sure, if I do them now it 'should' be that much longer before needing them again. But they could hold up for years and there would be no bleeding needed at this time. I'm changing the shoes one way or another. I sure have gotten lazy. There used to be no question, do it all. Aw heck, I know my luck. I'll go ahead and do them... and the rear hose I also bought. Besides, I wouldn't want it to appear like I'd rather sit here and type about it than do the work (waiting on a 2 3/8" socket to show up)

I would do them now. They 16$ each at NAPA real cheap insurance. Fronts I wait till they weep because it's a snap to do. The two fronts are new also did them when I did the brakes. New rubber lines too.

[PepperTreeGarage]

Originally Posted by 72c20customcamper

Just fabed up a tool to press in the race. Had to order the bearing and race suppose to be be in tomorrow afternoon. Schedule 40 steel pipe squared up the end and put a compher on it. Won't do it till Wednesday though, going to throw the race into the chest freezer overnight. Then it should slide in alot easier.

Nice tool set up. Another way is to split the old Race and use it.

[72c20customcamper]

Originally Posted by PepperTreeGarage

Nice tool set up. Another way is to split the old Race and use it.

Done that before too. Works well when you can tap in the new one , inner bearing this works out but the outer is way inside the neck need something long to press it in.

[Wrenchbender Ret]

Any time you change shoes you need to do the wheel cylinders. When you push the pistons & cups back into the cyl. you start using the cruddy, pitted part of the cyl. I they are not leaking know they soon will be.
George

[Steeveedee]

Originally Posted by Wrenchbender Ret

Any time you change shoes you need to do the wheel cylinders. When you push the pistons & cups back into the cyl. you start using the cruddy, pitted part of the cyl. I they are not leaking know they soon will be.
George

Wise words, right there!

[Boog]

Never skimp on the safety stuff.

[PepperTreeGarage]

Originally Posted by 72c20customcamper

Done that before too. Works well when you can tap in the new one , inner bearing this works out but the outer is way inside the neck need something long to press it in.

I was lucky. My neighbor has a "Race Installer" tool, so I got to use it. We did a complete rebuild and upgrade on the DANA 60.

[special-K]

I tap the race back in same way I tap it out. I will do the wheel cylinders while it's apart. But I've never followed that replace cylinders every time you replace shoes thing and never had any issues in close to 50 years. Do they say the same for calipers getting replaced every time you replace pads? Never did that either and never had an issue/ I already bought them before getting into it. Makes even more sense to do it since my rule on full-floaters is replace the seals whenever the hub gets pulled. It seems like the seals start leaking after R&R unless you're real lucky. On the Dana60 the hubs stay on for a brake job, but most of my habit comes from experience with corporate rears.

[TheRocket]

Tell us about that bicycle. The handlebars caught my attention. It would look good riding in the back of my '71 with one of my other bikes.

[special-K]

Originally Posted by PepperTreeGarage

I was lucky. My neighbor has a "Race Installer" tool, so I got to use it. We did a complete rebuild and upgrade on the DANA 60.

What did you use to tighten the 2 3/8" spindle nuts? I had a stamped socket for that and it's gone missing since my last Dana60 job. I bought a forged socket and it doesn't fit inside the hub. The parts stores in town are clueless about any spindle socket other than fronts with the nubs

[PepperTreeGarage]

Originally Posted by special-K

What did you use to tighten the 2 3/8" spindle nuts? I had a stamped socket for that and it's gone missing since my last Dana60 job. I bought a forged socket and it doesn't fit inside the hub. The parts stores in town are clueless about any spindle socket other than fronts with the nubs

Powerbuilt stamped socket I got from Amazon. You can see it in the lower part of the pic.

https://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-64...r=8-2-fkmrnull

[Steeveedee]

Originally Posted by PepperTreeGarage

Powerbuilt stamped socket I got from Amazon. You can see it in the lower part of the pic.

https://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-64...r=8-2-fkmrnull

What did you get for TIR of the hub where the axle mounts?

I use #430 Channel-Locks(R) to adjust that nut- I've never had a socket for it.

[PepperTreeGarage]

Originally Posted by TheRocket

Tell us about that bicycle. The handlebars caught my attention. It would look good riding in the back of my '71 with one of my other bikes.

It started as a way to get around out at El Mirage dry lake bed at the SCTA meets. Then I put a 2 stroke kit on it. Bicycles are another hobby of mine.

[PepperTreeGarage]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

What did you get for TIR of the hub where the axle mounts?

I use #430 Channel-Locks(R) to adjust that nut- I've never had a socket for it.

The end play on the DS is .003 and on the PS is .002. I use the socket because of the final torque setting for the outer nut. I just followed the Service Manual instructions.

[special-K]

Originally Posted by PepperTreeGarage

Powerbuilt stamped socket I got from Amazon. You can see it in the lower part of the pic.

https://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-64...r=8-2-fkmrnull

Thanks for that info. I turned to Amazon and ended up with this forged one on Tuesday. I was doubtful and sure enough, it no fit. I was sending it back today and now I'll get one off your link. BTW, you have a beautiful rear (DANA60!!!)

[PepperTreeGarage]

Originally Posted by special-K

Thanks for that info. I turned to Amazon and ended up with this forged one on Tuesday. I was doubtful and sure enough, it no fit. I was sending it back today and now I'll get one off your link. BTW, you have a beautiful rear (DANA60!!!)

Thanks. This is going to be my daily Shop Truck. Can't afford the new trucks for 40,000 plus dollars. Take Care.

[special-K]

I was once into playing with cool bikes and am wanting to get back into it. I found this Columbia frame in a farm dump up on the mountain in '79. Just thought it was cool, didn't know what I'd do with it. Then I caught wind of the "clunker" thing going on in Marin County and the beach cruiser thing had taken off at SoCal beach towns. Mt bikes had not yet become a thing, but were about to. This is what I came up with, still in originally built form from 1980. It would be cool to motorize, but I think I'll keep it as is, maybe not even restore, since it's a piece of history. Could be the first ATB (term used before Mt. Bike) in the East. I do have some other old Schwinn frames to build something different from. The whole cool bike thing has really exploded and so many parts available, I'm dying to get into it

[Steeveedee]

Originally Posted by special-K

I was once into playing with cool bikes and am wanting to get back into it. I found this Columbia frame in a farm dump up on the mountain in '79. Just thought it was cool, didn't know what I'd do with it. Then I caught wind of the "clunker" thing going on in Marin County and the beach cruiser thing had taken off at SoCal beach towns. Mt bikes had not yet become a thing, but were about to. This is what I came up with, still in originally built form from 1980. It would be cool to motorize, but I think I'll keep it as is, maybe not even restore, since it's a piece of history. Could be the first ATB (term used before Mt. Bike) in the East. I do have some other old Schwinn frames to build something different from. The whole cool bike thing has really exploded and so many parts available, I'm dying to get into it

Too cool! I've never seen a saddle sprung like that, before.

[72c20customcamper]

Wow talk about thread drift..

[tdangle]

72c20customcamper, was the race in the picture part of the hub assembly. I also have a Dana 60 full floating and am thinking I really need to check mine.