Ignition Coil Bracket - Broken Bolt

[Damien8086]

I am in the middle of replacing my distributor, ignition coil, wires and plugs and noticed when I was removing the ignition coil that the bracket was only held on with one bolt rather than 2. After I removed it I could see why, there is a broken off bolt stuck in the hole.

I have tried a few different things to get it out. I tried using a screw extractor and that didn't work. I tried putting some POR-15 epoxy on it, let it harden, and then I made a slice in it for a screw driver, but the added epoxy piece just ended up breaking off. I also tried something similar using JB Weld, but got similar results. I also tried drilling it out, but I don't seem to make any progress.

Any suggestions on how to get this thing out?

[Ol Blue K20]

A lot of penetrating oil. Then start drilling with small left-handed drill bits. Don't go to deep (through the bolt). Go slow and keep stepping the bit size larger. Hopefully a bit will grab and spin it out. This works most of the time for me. Good luck my friend.....

[rpmerf]

Soak it in PB and let is sit for a bit. It will help if you can get the engine up to temp as the metal will expand slightly and make it easier for the PB to soak through.

Drill into it with the tiniest bit you can, like 1/8th". I will be worth buying a new bit if you don't have a good one. 1/8" bits are pretty cheap. Go slow, keep it lubed up, and try to stay in the center as best as possible. You want to get down a significant bit - 1/4" or so. Hammer the screw extractor into the hole to get the best grip you can. You want the screw extractor to grip on the sides and not bottom out.

You might want to take the blow torch to it to get it hotter and help the PB soak in. Kind of scary on a manifold though.

[demian5]

Id just tighten down the one with a good star washer. That should hold it and keep it from rotating any.

[Steeveedee]

When you drill for the EZ-Out, use a left-handed drill bit. Sometimes the bit will catch and unscrew the broken bolt for you. If the bolt is bottomed out in the manifold, that may not work, though.

[AussieinNC]

When using the left hand drill bit, make sure you run the drill in reverse....yep, seems common sense, but I have seen several instances of "it wont drill into the bolt" !!!!!!

Be careful drilling that bolt out, that looks like an aluminum manifold and they are very soft....that bolt most likely snapped off due to excess length....bottomed out and someone just kept turning....

You could always mount the coil somewhere else...

Or... just bite the bullet and go for a HEI dist....just make sure you replace the resistor wire...search on the board and you will find lots of posts about converting points / coil to HEI....

[Steeveedee]

Originally Posted by AussieinNC

When using the left hand drill bit, make sure you run the drill in reverse....yep, seems common sense, but I have seen several instances of "it wont drill into the bolt" !!!!!!

Be careful drilling that bolt out, that looks like an aluminum manifold and they are very soft....that bolt most likely snapped off due to excess length....bottomed out and someone just kept turning....

You could always mount the coil somewhere else...

Or... just bite the bullet and go for a HEI dist....just make sure you replace the resistor wire...search on the board and you will find lots of posts about converting points / coil to HEI....

Yeah, running the drill in reverse is sometimes missed. I also suspected that the bolt was probably too long, but didn't want to go there. Seems like aftermarket stuff has differences that can bite people on the butt. Breaking that bolt off if the hole isn't deep enough is the mark of the same guys who tighten oil pan drain plugs until they strip...and then put in an oversize plug, while the nut in the pan is almost always harder than the plug. It just goes downhill from there.

[AussieinNC]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

Yeah, running the drill in reverse is sometimes missed. I also suspected that the bolt was probably too long, but didn't want to go there. Seems like aftermarket stuff has differences that can bite people on the butt. Breaking that bolt off if the hole isn't deep enough is the mark of the same guys who tighten oil pan drain plugs until they strip...and then put in an oversize plug, while the nut in the pan is almost always harder than the plug. It just goes downhill from there.

Yep, been there, done that....the original steel "nut" in the sump is not hardened...but after lots of heat cycling thru use they get nice and tempered....

Even better now are the clowns that tighten a sump plug on an alloy sump....and strip out the soft threads in the alloy...then add misery to the pain by using some "sealant" to stop the drip...

[Steeveedee]

Originally Posted by AussieinNC

Yep, been there, done that....the original steel "nut" in the sump is not hardened...but after lots of heat cycling thru use they get nice and tempered....

Even better now are the clowns that tighten a sump plug on an alloy sump....and strip out the soft threads in the alloy...then add misery to the pain by using some "sealant" to stop the drip...

I know what you mean. That's if they even change the oil. My wife's friend has a daughter who had to get an Expedition in order to get those big baby seats in a vehicle that can carry her three kids. The thing started running badly, and she took it to the dealer...who told them that it appeared that the oil had never been changed. Now she's scrounging up the receipts, and will possibly end up eating the repair. I have some late model econoboxes that were bought new at the dealership, and maintained there. If something goes Tango Uniform, they'll be eating it. It can't possibly cost that much more to have the dealer change the oil and do other services as required, versus buying an engine.