"Crewcab Jake" the 84 to 74 conversion

[N2TRUX]

Once the exterior of the carb was cleaned up I tested it again. I still had sticking issues. I discovered that the secondary butterflies were hanging up on the thermal barrier gasket.

[N2TRUX]

Yeah, it's been a while since I did any updates. These days a get a lot more hits on Instagram and Facebook when I post vids. Consequently I shoot vids and share which obviously doesn't work here.
Anyway, heres where I left off. I'll try to get caught up this week. I got the thermal gasket modified and set the carb in place.

[Factory Guy]

Looks like a great project and it looks like it is moving along nicely.

Thanks for all of the photos.

[rodstored-72]

Ken,
I have a few question or so for you.. could be related to "Jake", but I notice in your thread for "Scarlett" that you had cleaned & wrapped the misc. wiring harnesses. my question is did you basically completely unwrap each section & then clean & re-wrap them? Also did you clean off the coating that is on them at the bulkhead connections? if so would you maybe share a helpful hint or technique? Finally I am wondering if you have ever relocated the proportioning valve on these trucks? I would also like input about moving it up closer to the master (like on newer trucks). I value your input and as always I am patiently waiting for more updates..... would be faster if you didn’t have to answer silly questions from admirers’...LOL!!!

THANK YOU for your time...

Rodstored-72 "Jake"

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by rodstored-72

Ken,
I have a few question or so for you.. could be related to "Jake", but I notice in your thread for "Scarlett" that you had cleaned & wrapped the misc. wiring harnesses. my question is did you basically completely unwrap each section & then clean & re-wrap them? Also did you clean off the coating that is on them at the bulkhead connections? if so would you maybe share a helpful hint or technique?
THANK YOU for your time...

Rodstored-72 "Jake"

Jake I am an electronic technician by trade. I dont have a formal education so all of my experience comes from "Hands on" training. Combine that with my being OCD and I just cant feel comfortable till I have had my hands on every inch of something I'm building. I'm teaching my nephew what my mentors taught me. I was taught that you cant be sure soming is good till you have actually touched and tested it.

We take every section of wiring that can be removed and lay it on the shop floor. We remove all factory loom and tape. We inspect every factory connection and test for continuity. If there are any splices we re-solder and protect with marine grade shrink tube.


Once we are satisfied with the integrity we focus on routing and aesthetics. We lay out the harness to determine if we can reduce or extend length to hide as much as possible. All of the wires are thoroughly cleaned using Walmart brand brake cleaner. Its cheap and leaves no oily residue.

When we are satisfied with the flow and function we add wraps of tape every 10-12 inches to keep things tidy inside the loom. I use braided mesh loom to cover the harness.

We cut the ends and singe them to prevent unraveling. The loom is slid back an inch and 3M electrical tape is applied to the harness, then wrapped around the loom. We use a lighter to lightly heat and seal the tape.


We use the same process at the bulkhead. We unplug the harness and use a wire brush and brake cleaner to remove all of the factory gunk. Its usually at that point that we clean all of the gunk off of the firewall as well. The firewall is prepped and painted before the components are reinstalled.

[rodstored-72]

Ken,
THANK YOU!! for the response, that is perfect direction. I am in the beginning process of doing this for my build & was looking for a "guideline" to reference. It looks like it will be a tedeous task, but agree that it needs to be done to help prevent trouble later on. I can only hope that my work ethic will be half as close to what you & a few other builders do on this board. I am a civil engineer so my electrical knowledge is about as complete as probably half the harnesses in my truck!!

thank you again for the guidance & time spent on this board helping "wanna be's" like myself...

Rodstored-72 "Jake"

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by rodstored-72

Ken,
I have a few question or so for you.. Finally I am wondering if you have ever relocated the proportioning valve on these trucks? I would also like input about moving it up closer to the master (like on newer trucks). I value your input and as always I am patiently waiting for more updates..... would be faster if you didn’t have to answer silly questions from admirers’...LOL!!!

THANK YOU for your time...

Rodstored-72 "Jake"

Jake,
Regarding the proportioning valve I have not relocated one as of yet. Well technically that's incorrect, so allow me to explain. On previous builds I have replaced stock calipers with slotted rotors and Wilwood D52 calipers. This does not require an adjustable proportioning valve so no changes were made.

On Elwood, I ran 13 imch Wilwoods all around so an adjustable valve was required. I was told that I could mount the Wilwood adjustable valve down in the same location as the bias valve. That was very inaccurate. I did mount it there, but it required a mounting bracket and all new lines to be fabricated.

Wilwood makes a bracket kit that allows you to mount a proportioning valve directly under the Wilwood master cylinder. It comes with bre bent hardlines and fitting. I will be using this on Jake once I determine what size master cylinder I will need.

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by rodstored-72

......

thank you again for the guidance & time spent on this board helping "wanna be's" like myself...

Rodstored-72 "Jake"

Jake we all have been inexperienced at one point in our life. I try to learn something new every day. Certainly there are things I learn enough about to know that I dont really want to know any more.
I try to break things down in to small tasks. I set a goal based on shop time allotted to accomplish a task each time I set down. This helps me feel like I'm moving forward.

[rodstored-72]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

Jake,
Regarding the proportioning valve I have not relocated one as of yet. Well technically that's incorrect, so allow me to explain. On previous builds I have replaced stock calipers with slotted rotors and Wilwood D52 calipers. This does not require an adjustable proportioning valve so no changes were made.

On Elwood, I ran 13 imch Wilwoods all around so an adjustable valve was required. I was told that I could mount the Wilwood adjustable valve down in the same location as the bias valve. That was very inaccurate. I did mount it there, but it required a mounting bracket and all new lines to be fabricated.

Wilwood makes a bracket kit that allows you to mount a proportioning valve directly under the Wilwood master cylinder. It comes with bre bent hardlines and fitting. I will be using this on Jake once I determine what size master cylinder I will need.

Ken,
thanks for the reply. My ideal thought is to run disks at all corners (I hate drum brakes.. lol) I am not sure if my budget will allow me to do that yet. so initally I was thinking of just getting a salvage yard booster, master cylinder & valve (2013 or newer) to replace the current setup? I am sure the factory setup is not a big deal.... but for some reason it bothers me...

[Desert1957]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

Once the exterior of the carb was cleaned up I tested it again. I still had sticking issues. I discovered that the secondary butterflies were hanging up on the thermal barrier gasket.

Ken,

I didn't know if you had discovered this or not, but some Quadrajets came and needed at metal plate with the gasket. Also the gasket in your picture looks wrong for the base.

[N2TRUX]

My experience has been on a 2wd truck you have a couple of ways to improve braking. First and foremost make sure the stock brakes are functioning properly.

In front, the next step up from stock are the Wilwood D52 replacement calipers. These do require replacing the stock rubber hose, but that should be done anyway. You will need a braided stainless thats available from Summit racing. Combine those with Summit slotted rotors for a nice look and improved braking.

If you have a bigger budget, spend it on 13" (or bigger) Wilwood rotors and 6 piston calipers. This will make a noticeable difference in stopping ability, and dramatically reduce brake fade.

In the rear its hard to beat the factory 2.25 HD drum brakes. Replace the wheel cylinders and use quality shoes. Unless your going to upgrade to 13" Wilwoods with 4 piston calipers, dont waste your money on anything else.

I know ill get heat for saying this, but the 2.25 HD drums will out perform any of the small disc brake conversions.

Originally Posted by rodstored-72

Ken,
thanks for the reply. My ideal thought is to run disks at all corners (I hate drum brakes.. lol) I am not sure if my budget will allow me to do that yet. so initally I was thinking of just getting a salvage yard booster, master cylinder & valve (2013 or newer) to replace the current setup? I am sure the factory setup is not a big deal.... but for some reason it bothers me...

[rodstored-72]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

My experience has been on a 2wd truck you have a couple of ways to improve braking. First and foremost make sure the stock brakes are functioning properly.

In front, the next step up from stock are the Wilwood D52 replacement calipers. These do require replacing the stock rubber hose, but that should be done anyway. You will need a braided stainless thats available from Summit racing. Combine those with Summit slotted rotors for a nice look and improved braking.

If you have a bigger budget, spend it on 13" (or bigger) Wilwood rotors and 6 piston calipers. This will make a noticeable difference in stopping ability, and dramatically reduce brake fade.

In the rear its hard to beat the factory 2.25 HD drum brakes. Replace the wheel cylinders and use quality shoes. Unless your going to upgrade to 13" Wilwoods with 4 piston calipers, dont waste your money on anything else.

I know ill get heat for saying this, but the 2.25 HD drums will out perform any of the small disc brake conversions.

Ken,
the brakes appeared to work good when purchased the truck, everything appeared to work as should,just slow or "old".... like me! My thought is that I would "update" the brake booster (honestly just for looks), mastercyl., prop. valve so all is in the same area (move prop valve away from factory location) - why? I guess I just don't like it there.... My thought is that the front brakes would be a rotor upgrade with "performance" pads. the rear was to make asthetic looks with disks - assumed that disks were a given upgrade. I do better with disk brakes for maintainance than drums. I guess drums can look good behind a fancy wheel. I know I will have to modify brake lines and such to move these items. I will give some more thought to the options, I may just replace certain items & keep it all stock... As always, I value the feedback from you and the board! there are many great minds on here...

[LT7A]

Ken, I am always glad to see the updates even if they are more the occasional based on your involvement in other media. I feel like the Forum is still the best place for shared information, but the ability to display projects and progress is probably better in the other outlets being distributed to a wider audience. Anyway, you had mentioned that research had led you to the Edelbrock Performer 2.0 intake manifold. So far, what I have dug up has been somewhat muddled. I am interested in torque enhancing upgrades for my engine and wondered if you could point me toward the information you found. Thanks!

[N2TRUX]

It depends on your application. I was looking for gains one a motor that has horrible heads and low compression. It didnt make sense to run a big single plan intake because the heads would kill any gains. The Performer 2.0 is a dual plane intake with medium rise runners. Its focus is to improve low RPM torque so its designed to operate in a range that this motor will be running in most of the time.
Search Performer 2.0 and you will find several articles.

Originally Posted by LT7A

Ken, .... Anyway, you had mentioned that research had led you to the Edelbrock Performer 2.0 intake manifold. So far, what I have dug up has been somewhat muddled. I am interested in torque enhancing upgrades for my engine and wondered if you could point me toward the information you found. Thanks!

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by LT7A

Ken, I am always glad to see the updates even if they are more the occasional based on your involvement in other media. I feel like the Forum is still the best place for shared information, but the ability to display projects and progress is probably better in the other outlets being distributed to a wider audience. Anyway, you had mentioned that research had led you to the Edelbrock Performer 2.0 intake manifold. So far, what I have dug up has been somewhat muddled. I am interested in torque enhancing upgrades for my engine and wondered if you could point me toward the information you found. Thanks!

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

It depends on your application. I was looking for gains one a motor that has horrible heads and low compression. It didnt make sense to run a big single plan intake because the heads would kill any gains. The Performer 2.0 is a dual plane intake with medium rise runners. Its focus is to improve low RPM torque so its designed to operate in a range that this motor will be running in most of the time.
Search Performer 2.0 and you will find several articles.

I know Ken made the choices that he wanted based on his particular situation. That being said, all a 'Smog-Dog' motor needs to wake it up is a better cam & compression.
The heads flow just fine below 4k & =/< .600" lift where most street engines will be operating.

Peanut Port BBC heads:
Lift/Int. flow/Ex. flow
0.200 125 87
0.300 183 111
0.400 215 130
0.500 233 144
0.600 235 150

6.0LS #317 heads:
Lift/Int. flow/Ex. flow
0.200 144.1 103.8
0.300 200.2 142.5
0.400 234.6 167.9
0.500 241.7 183.1
0.600 243.3 193.7

The flow numbers show the PP/smog heads are not that far off from what 'new' technology produces on the intake side. Airflow through the heads is what makes power so the PP/smog heads can yield similar power numbers to those super/great/awesome/advanced-tech/late-model aluminum LS heads that flow better (+ have the benefit of more compression & cam). My limited fueling technology TBI 454 will still light up all 4 rear tires from a stand still using those factory 'horrible' heads. My 454 does have flat tops to improve compression + an RV/towing cam. I could have made even more power w/a different cam but chose something very mild in hopes it would work w/the TBI which I was stuck with @ the time.

[LT7A]

Ken and SCOTI, thank you for the feedback. I really appreciate it. I definitely had searched for input on that manifold and have read people's perspectives on several forums. And the best way to describe what I found would be mixed reviews. Hence my curiosity Ken, in what the deciding factor was for you. I'm a big fan of getting the most out of my era correct engine whether it's original or not. I also am looking for torque production and likely would never need the upper RPM power made possible with big port heads. I have a lifted 3/4 ton on good-sized tires and so low-end torque is king. And a little weight reduction never hurts.

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by LT7A

Ken and SCOTI, thank you for the feedback...... I also am looking for torque production and likely would never need the upper RPM power made possible with big port heads. I have a lifted 3/4 ton on good-sized tires and so low-end torque is king. And a little weight reduction never hurts.

If your looking for power produced down low, this is an ideal intake for you. I bought it gently used from a guy that had it on his lifted 4wd C20 and loved it. He succumbed to the adage that if some is good, more is better and built a nasty 468 with a Holley Terminator F/I system.

[wixthedog]

Big fan of Elwood and now a huge fan of Jake as well, keep up the awesome work!

[N2TRUX]

So life's been pretty hectic, and my time on here has been limited. I still browse occasionally, but havent had much to post. This weekend we finally got a bit of shop time dedicated to Jake.

I hate to say, but it was last year prepping for LST that we threw the rear bumper on at the last minute. Due to me using longer leaf springs, the hangers were in the way of the bumper brackets. We found a couple of holes that got us "close enough" and hung the bumper. Consequently, the bumper was too high to lower the tailgate down fully.

It was finally time to go back and do things correctly. Chris and I spent quite some time adjusting the brackets. I determined that I needed to modify the longer ones to get the bumper up higher. When we got done, it was tucked as far in and up as possible.

[N2TRUX]

Once the bumper was aligned, I could start on the next part of the project. I have been working with the manufacturer of a new product. It's a C10 bumper filler panel designed to clean up the gap between the bumper and the body.
The original design works well on the 81-87 bumper. The designer has installed several and they fit nicely. Unfortunately they will require some tweaking to accommodate the 73-80 bumper.

[N2TRUX]

We spent some time trimming the ends to match the shape of the early bumper. We got it close enough to fit in place.

I still need to determine the height of the spacer for it to set level. We feel it might need some additional width as well.

[rustytruck50]

Looks really nice, Ken! That black sealer (hope I called it right) does a great job of showing off the bright work!

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by rustytruck50

Looks really nice, Ken! That black sealer (hope I called it right) does a great job of showing off the bright work!

Thank you sir. Yes, thats Tamco K2 epoxy primer. It does have a really nice sheen.

[N2TRUX]

Its that time again. I have been focused on work and family projects so Jake has been neglected. I have been trying to get together with Joseph Dowling from Cars and Concerts for him to document the installation of the RideTech 4 link coil over system for several months. The stars finally aligned and my schedule coincided with an opening he had so we did a photo session yesterday.

[N2TRUX]

Joseph brought his son Paul who is a young videographer to assist him. Christian was there to do the parts layout, and sub assembly. I was the grunt on the ground sweeping up metal shavings with my back.

I took a "before" shot with the rigged up leaf spring suspension. Ironically, it may be pretty close to the height once we dial in the coil overs.