Getting ready to put parts on long block----

[72longstepper]

Been over 50 years------------------------------

1. In what order should I put on the timing cover and oil pan.
2. Is it necessary to spot weld oil pump arm to keep it in place?
3. Do you use RTV on every gasket? Was Permatex in my day.

I will be putting an Edlebrock intake on. Would it be safer to install engine with a load leveler system rather than a carb plate (I have both). Front end is off.
ANY help is appreciated.

[Steeveedee]

1. It's easier to put the timing cover on first if it hasn't been cut to ease re-installation of timing chain and gears in its past life. If it's been cut it won't matter too much.

2. I've never spot welded a pick screen to an oil pump. Once I had one fall off, but I had it knurled and hammered it back on.

3. Do what the package says for the gaskets. Ye olde Permatex still works fine.

If the trans is in place in the truck, I'd go with the carb plate, personally. FWIW, I've never used a carb plate, just chains on bolts in the block or intake manifold. Either one is as safe as the other.

[HO455]

What Steveedee says is good information. The only thing I would add is don't bother with the front and rear gaskets on the bottom of the intake manifold use RTV or a gasket maker product instead.

[weim55]

If the the oil pump and pickup are both new and of good quality the interference fit will be very tight making a spot weld unnecessary IF you use the proper tool to install the pickup into the pump. Bottom line if you can easily move the pickup in the pump fully installed do the spot weld.

Load leveler is great to ease install IF the engine hoist will raise the engine high enough (most don't) to clear everything using the leveler.

Yes, timing cover first, then oil pan.

I use light sealant on every gasket for an engine I plan to never take apart (ie: stock street motor). I HATE leaks down the road.

Tip: (this is necessary only if the long block is a rebuild or using a cheap china timing cover) before you permanent install the timing cover: install the timing cover dry on the block and slide on the balancer just enough before the seal surface to starts contacting balancer seal. Check the gap at 6 and 12 oclock to make sure they are the same. If you can see a difference with the naked eye the engine has excessive line bore machining and that seal will leak. Check 3 and 9 oclock positions too (china timing cover) This condition is very rare but a total drag if your engine has to come apart later to fix this.

Steve weim55 Colorado

[Grumpy old man]

I've seen a few different ways to secure an oil pick up tube to the pump and a few failures , JB weld , tack weld that cracked the tube both of those led to oil starvation and failure , when I installed a new Melling pump in my 350 I used a Pioneer oil pump pick up tube retainer from Summit and I'm sure it will do the job .
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/p...yABEgLTGvD_BwE

Also a good tip on the crank timing cover seal install worth a look .

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WOfOHMI6Wnc

These little install tips could save you big headaches down the road .

[Grumpy old man]

[68 TT]

Set the bottom of pan to pickup depth then tack the pickup to the pump to keep it there. I have seen pickups that sagged out of position over time and were resting against the bottom of the pan causing oil starvation. Better safe than sorry. Much easier to do it now than after the engine has been assembled and develops a problem down the road. Not like a tack weld is much work.

If it is a loose fit though you need to weld it fully to the pump so it is making a good seal and not sucking air. Before you do this take the top off the pump and remove the roll pin holding the spring in and take the parts out so the spring doesn't get heat damage during the welding process.

Make sure you use an oil pump drive shaft with a steel collar and not just the plastic sleeve the factory used. They are cheap insurance and a must if you are running a high volume oil pump. Melling part number IS-55E for small block and IS-77 for big block are under $10 and are quality parts I have used for years and work great.

With the timing cover seal make sure you put sealant around the outside edge of the balancer seal before you press it into the timing cover. They are prone to leak in this area over time and the sealant there will help to prevent it. Also goes for pinion seals and axle seals on the rear end.

Oil up the lip of the balancer seal as well before you install the timing cover onto the engine so it is not running dry against the balancer hub on first start up. Tough to oil well after they are in place with the crank snout in the way.

Make sure you put thread locker on the cam gear retaining bolts or install a lock plate with the tabs you bend over to keep the bolts in place. I always do both. Use grade-8 bolts on the cam gear too and do not re-use old bolts. They are under too much stress to take a chance for $5 in hardware. ARP 134-1001 is what I have used for years with every engine I build.

[68Gold/white]

I've never NOT welded a pickup tube...

Two years ago I freshened up a 350 for a friend. I measured the pan depth, then got online into Moroso's catalog. I bought a pickup that bolts to the pump body itself, using two of the pump housing bolts...THAT is the best way!!!

[Steeveedee]

Probably 100 Million of them were pressed in that didn't fall out. And I got one.

[72longstepper]

TY all for replies and sorry for late response. Heart problems have put me way behind.

[AussieinNC]

Hi,

Best wishes on a speedy recovery from your heart issues....

and you are not way behind...at least you are looking at the daisies from above the ground!

I know I do everyday....