Wife's 48

[Jesse Z]

I'm concerned about that brake pedal welded straight across - only about 1" of weld holding such a high-stress piece together. I'd cut and weld it diagonally. That way you'll get 2-3" of weld. Or fish plate it.

[joedoh]

go man go!

Originally Posted by 8man

The outside of the frame had the original bolt holes for the original bumper, so I used those for a bolt on in that location.
IMG_0256 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

I dont know how I missed this tip the first time but thats a great idea!

[8man]

Joe, you mean I had a good idea? Thanks. It was the easiest way I could think of to mount it.

Also, Jesse Z, thanks for the comment. I don't think the weld will break, I didn't like the transition, so I worked on it today.

IMG_0275 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

And, I fought the hood trying to get the riders side to line up properly, so I've worked on the hinge with a rat tail file, like the manual says, and I also worked on the corner of the hood. It was bent a little flat.

IMG_0276 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

Now to weld it up.

[8man]

Since I have the front end off the truck to work on the radiator bracket, today I looked at the latch panel and latch plate. I have two sets, and both were broken in the same place.

IMG_0277 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

The latch was broken in two places and I welded it up and finished the weld.

The panels were both broken where the emergency latch catches. So I fixed those.

IMG_0280 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

IMG_0279 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

The PO cut one of the panels on the top, just inside the two outside bolt holes.

IMG_0278 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

I don't know why, but I fixed it too. Then I did some metal bumping on the rider's side fender and then I welded up some cuts in the inner fender that a PO did. This was on a Camaro front clip, and he just cut and folded the inner fender up over the tire. It was a mess.

[Tinbasher]

Keep up the good work, its very inspirational!!

[Matt_50]

It's looking good! Feels to good to get a lot done doesn't it.

[8man]

I stripped all the body parts from the frame. I liked looking at it all together, but I had to weld the cab mounts and check some other welds on the frame.

IMG_0284 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

So now the frame is welded and ready for disassembly and paint.

Small steps, but today they were all forward!

[8man]

Well I slicked up the firewall because I like the look. Then I got the Vintage Air sure fit kit.

IMG_2104 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

So I had to re-drill the holes for the factory heater. So I marked where the hoses would go through the firewall, it looked like this. Those 4 X's are where I drilled the holes for the VA mock up unit I have. So I'll be welding those holes up now.

IMG_0309 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

So I drilled holes and cleaned up the big one with a Dremel, big hole saws just don't work for me.
IMG_0311 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

And my lucky day, the sure fit kit fits.
IMG_0312 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr
I got pretty lucky on the template I made and it was close enough that the Dremel made it all fit.

Now that kills my plans for the battery box, so I'm looking for some ideas on battery placement. I put the other cab on the frame I've been working on for the 48 to see if there was a place on the frame under the cab where I could put the battery, but it doesn't look like it. I know Joe put one in an inner fender, but any other ideas? I don't want to put it in the bed if I can help it, but that may be the last resort.

Made two more decisions on the truck, 1) I'm replacing the lower left outer cowl as the old vent has me concerned about leakage (both air and water), and 2) I'm going to weld up the gills on the right cowl. Looked at a truck this past weekend that had done that and it looked good.

[NorCalGal]

Looks like you’ve been busy in the metal work dept, nice work there.I struggled with weather or not to weld up the fins on my truck also, I hope I don’t regret keeping them.

[youngrodder]

Originally Posted by 8man

Well I slicked up the firewall because I like the look. Then I got the Vintage Air sure fit kit.

IMG_2104 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

So I had to re-drill the holes for the factory heater. So I marked where the hoses would go through the firewall, it looked like this. Those 4 X's are where I drilled the holes for the VA mock up unit I have. So I'll be welding those holes up now.

IMG_0309 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

So I drilled holes and cleaned up the big one with a Dremel, big hole saws just don't work for me.
IMG_0311 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

And my lucky day, the sure fit kit fits.
IMG_0312 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr
I got pretty lucky on the template I made and it was close enough that the Dremel made it all fit.

Now that kills my plans for the battery box, so I'm looking for some ideas on battery placement. I put the other cab on the frame I've been working on for the 48 to see if there was a place on the frame under the cab where I could put the battery, but it doesn't look like it. I know Joe put one in an inner fender, but any other ideas? I don't want to put it in the bed if I can help it, but that may be the last resort.

Made two more decisions on the truck, 1) I'm replacing the lower left outer cowl as the old vent has me concerned about leakage (both air and water), and 2) I'm going to weld up the gills on the right cowl. Looked at a truck this past weekend that had done that and it looked good.

Looks good. I used a SS drop down battery box that I mounted behind the passenger side tire. I tucked it into the dead space between the frame and the fender towards the back of the front fender.

[8man]

Thanks, I hadn't thought of that location. I've been looking at places to put a drop down box, but with the sheet metal off again, I haven't really come to any conclusions. I'll take a look when I get it back on the frame again.

[8man]

Got the gill removed.
IMG_0315 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr
Made the patch, and bent it just a little to try and match the contours of the cowl area.
IMG_0316 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr
Tacked in place and started the dance, weld a little, cool a little, grind a little, cool a little and repeat.
IMG_0317 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr
And all welded in.
IMG_0319 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr
Now to see how it finishes out. Oh, that light was hung from the underside of the dash so I could look for pinholes. It worked.

I never would have tackled this a year ago.

Thank you to all the guys who have helped me figure out "how do I do this"!

[mongocanfly]

Looks good Robert....those lights behind the weld work well...

[8man]

Thanks Greg.

[NorCalGal]

Nice!

[8man]

Thanks Jan.

So yesterday I got the left lower cowl removed, and slipped the new panel in place for a look.
IMG_0318 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr
Then I painted the inside.
IMG_0320 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr
That rusty color is the reflection of my shirt.
Then as I was test fitting, punching holes, wire brushing down to clean steel, I test fit one more time.
IMG_0321 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr
And today I've spot welded and ground them down and it's done.
IMG_0322 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr
Ok, maybe it's not done, but the welding and grinding on that cowl is done. Oh, and did I mention spot welding that panel in is a LOT easier than butt welding that gill closed!

[Matt_50]

I love checking in. Looks good man. I feel like it took me forever to get the confidence to start stuff like that.

[8man]

Thanks Matt. No kidding on the confidence part.

So at lunch Laura and I talked and since we live in a college town, we really do want all the brake light we can get to try and take their attention off of the phone. So with my new found confidence, I installed the 3rd brake light.

First was to locate it. I've thought about it a lot and finally went with this spot.
IMG_0323 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

Then I finished cutting it out, and test fit it. I had to do some finish work on the hole to get the Ron Francis light in the spot, but I finally got it in there.
IMG_0324 - Copy by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

I found out on this site that I could weld the stainless without incident, so I did. Darned if it didn't weld up pretty easy.
IMG_0325 - Copy by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

Slicked it off, at least the cab skin, the Ron Francis design had a lip that sat inside and the cab was thicker than the new metal I guess, because the flat part of the light is recessed a little. A little filler will be needed to bring it up flush, but it's in!
IMG_0326 - Copy by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

Of course there was the hole inside to work through, so I made a cover and luckily had four metal screws that are similar.
IMG_0327 - Copy by Robert Moorman, on Flickr

Then I drilled the holes for the wire to the light. I tried to get it up as high to the belt as possible. Now I'm finished for the day.

[Matt_50]

Cover plate looks factory! Can't wait to see your lights.

[8man]

Thanks Matt. Electrical seems so far away right now, but it felt good to get that cab work done!

[Scott2]

Nice work all around! Those cowls are too bad but the replacements seem just a little off and take some tweaking. The 3rd brake light is probably a good idea but I keep looking around for one that's kind of old and rusty!

[8man]

Thanks Scott. I tried another light first, but wound up with that one. If you do come up with something else, let me know.

[olcarguy]

Nice job Robert. Nothing wrong with your fab skills. I just jealous of the rust free trucks you get to work with. I have practiced on rusted metal since I was 14. Never learned to give up......

I think I used those same cowl patch panels.

[8man]

Olcarguy, thanks for that.

This is my first experience working with this old metal. I've learned a lot, including welding, and I am still learning every time I go out there.

You are right that the 48 was in pretty good shape. The 54 is more of a challenge. When I get the 48 done we'll see how much I've learned when get back on the 54.

[8man]

We had the 6 & 4 year old grandkids for 10 days before Thanksgiving, and then the whole family for Thanksgiving, so nothing went on for 2 weeks, BUT after they left yesterday I tried out mounting the windlace retainer to the cab, with 3M 07333 Impact Resistant Structural Adhesive.

Thank you Martinsr! The stuff was easy to use and it really seems solid.

First I ground down the back of the retainer and the cab where it would mount with a roloc disc. Then I got the windlace retainer and some metal screws for each end and mounted it to the cab, with just the 2 screws on each end of the retainer holding it in place to see how it fit.

Then I got all the parts together.
IMG_0347 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr
Then using almost every clamp I had I applied the adhesive, screwed each end of the retainer to the cab, and used the clamps to make sure the rest of the retainer was firmly against the cab on the rider's side.
IMG_0349 by Robert Moorman, on Flickr
The magnets are helping hold the heavier clamps so they wouldn't pull off as I didn't want to apply so much pressure as to crush the retainer.

24 hours later I took the clamps off and did the driver's side.

I had used too much of the adhesive in some places on the rider's side, so I had some spots where it had "squished" out from between the retainer and the cab, so I started sanding on that after I glued and clamped up the drivers side, being a little more careful with the adhesive.