LMC floor pans

[rustyrodknocker]

I just recieved the parts to rebuild the drivers floor in the 66 burb. On the main floor pan the front edge that meets the cab panel at about the bottom of the gas pedal is missing the return to allow it to fit up to the factory spot welded and sealed joint.

I'm wondering how guys are making this joint. I was thinking just cutting off the opposite flange and butt welding it, if the patch is long enough to do so.

Is there any reason not to do something like this?

[bsarts]

I am facing the same dilemma, I don't see why you can't just eliminate the folded seem and butt weld them. However, mine is rotted out above the seem also and I think I'm going to repair it as original with the folded edges only because I feel it might make it more rigid.



Brad

[rustyrodknocker]

I decided to cut off the flange and butt it up in the front. One less joint dependent on sealer.

I'm struggling to fit all the pieces together. There is not enough original to locate some portions.

I started by putting bolt in the new parts where I could but this makes the fit terrible.

Decided to make it fit the best I can then make holes. The replacement panels are approximate at best.

I'm down to fitting the rear portion near the back of the seat.
Trouble is that this is a suburban and the part is for a pickup.
It was about 6 inches too long so I cut it back and flanged it.
The elevation is what I'm stuck on.
Does anybody know if the pickup floor is higher than the suburban?

If I fit the bottom I can get a bolt in and it seems to fit the door jab correctly.
This makes the floor a 1/2" high.

I can pull the bolt and push the floor down and it will look pretty good like that.
This method with the outer rocker mocked up seems to fit the rocker elevation a little better.

If I knew the floors were the same or different height it would be a no brainer.

[rustyrodknocker]

Rear floor

[bsarts]

In my limited experience with these things, the bolt holes can be wildly inaccurate, I would just do what it takes to make the panel fit right and make new holes where necessary. Very important with that outer rear floor piece, is to make sure the lower edge is at the correct elevation to meet up with the outer rocker when it goes on.


Brad

[rustyrodknocker]

Originally Posted by bsarts

In my limited experience with these things, the bolt holes can be wildly inaccurate, I would just do what it takes to make the panel fit right and make new holes where necessary. Very important with that outer rear floor piece, is to make sure the lower edge is at the correct elevation to meet up with the outer rocker when it goes on.


Brad

Copy that. I should have thought of that. Back when I got the rocker I got it with the back piece. I should not need that piece now as the floor drop will take its place.

[66C10LB]

I have found the same problem with the LMC drivers side floor pan. I will be bending a small L-shaped piece to add onto it so that there will be a flange ( so that it will look factory). Additionally, the recess for the body mount is too shallow on the LMC floor pan. Annoyingly, I will probably modify that as well.