How to get C10 2WD short/fleet to hook...

[SufferInTruth]

How can I go about that if I've already got:

383:
4-bolt main block
Eagle 3.75" 4340 crank w/ 6.0" 4340 rods
SRP forged dished pistons 10:1
Comp Cam XE274 w/ Magnum roller rockers 1.6 ratio
Dart Iron Eagle 200cc heads 2.02/1.60
Speed Demon 750 mech. secondaries


I'd LIKE to pull 12's in the 1/4 when the motor is finally broken in. I'm open for any suggestions.

[1971 Cheyenne]

what transmission, rear gears, and tires are you running?

[TIMSPEED]

With that engine, coupled with a Th350, along with a posi rear end with gears in the 3.4x-4.1x, and a good hook, I can GURAN-DAMN-TEE you'll go 12's!
If you got leaf springs in the back, I would recommend a flip kit, with spring clamps in front of the axle.

[SufferInTruth]

Trans: TH400 Hughes-built w/ 2500 stall
Rear end: 3.73 Eaton posi 12-bolt rear
Tires: 295/60/15R BFG Drag Radials

[srosa707]

I have almost the exact same setup. Where can i get a flip kit for it??

[TIMSPEED]

Originally Posted by srosa707

I have almost the exact same setup. Where can i get a flip kit for it??

Well, a FLIP KIT is indicating your have leaf springs. A lot of companies make flip kits for leaf spring C10's (DJM, BellTech, WesternChassis) and summit carries the DJM and BellTech one.

[SufferInTruth]

By the way, I AM running coils. Any way I could get the hook I want without going to a flip kit w/ leafs?

[crazy longhorn]

Your coil setup will hook much better than the leafs, & much less hassles. The long trail arms make a good traction bar. It sounds like you have the rubber on the back, but may find that the truck will hook better on the strip than on the street.....i would take it out & run it after you get the fresh mill broke in, see how it does, & work from there . as far as a flip on a leaf truck(I have done that), but not for traction, to lower it. I run a set of slapper bars for traction & hop problems. One thing that may help, if you havent already done it , is loose the front sway bar & go with some drag shock up front to "get the nose up". That will give some weight transfer . another is lighten the nose by loosing all the front weight you can (move the battery back, loose the heater/AC stuff,innner fenders & anything else you dont need on the strip).....that limits your driving to fair weather tho.... I like to run my sb in I6 position to slide the weight a few inches rearward(approx 3 1/2" setback). with the powerplant you have....its gonna like to "smoke some rubber" best of luck, & have fun.....crazyL

[PTS Kustoms]

Go to www.hotrodstohell.net and check out the truck arm upgrade kit. I just ordered one and will post results...

[68LSS1]

Originally Posted by PTS Kustoms

Go to www.hotrodstohell.net and check out the truck arm upgrade kit. I just ordered one and will post results...

What he said.

[SufferInTruth]

My only concern about HotRodsToHell's kit is that I already have the complete 4/6 drop kit from Early Classic, which has springs, shocks, shock mount relocator, and drop spindles. How would this interfere with HotRodsToHell's kit?

[PTS Kustoms]

Unfortunately, you would lose all that you have done on the rear. You would still retain the rearend and the trailing arms but that is basiacally it. The rear is totally adjustable as far as height as I also have a 4" front drop as well. Steve the owner of hotrodstohell said that the truck would sit as low as you want in the rear for the front drop to look right. Hope this Helps!

[ShamrockCustoms]

Suffer: Your rear suspension setup will hook better than a leaf sprung truck. You defintely need to replace all bushings in your trailing arms. The lowered springs you have in the back may actually impede your performance only because they are proabably a higher spring rate than stock. ( You want as soft as a spring as you can get away with for weight transfer )

Also, make sure your ujoints are top notch. You can lose lots of power through the driveline. Of course, make sure you have good trans/motor mounts too.