The more I learn...the more puzzled I become!

[Beach-Burban]

Originally Posted by richard2717

As far as the coil springs, make sure you get them specific for the suburbans and not truck ones. The truck ones are lighter and will be real sloppy.

The 3rd door has two pivot points before it even gets to the latch assembly. You may have some binding in that as well. Here is a picture of one I just removed from a door I was trashing. It is missing the little short rod that comes thru the door for you to pull on but I added a picture of that separately just so you can see what it looks like. The pivot brackets are attached to the door behind the door panel with 2 phillips screws on each bracket.


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Thanks Richard...I will be referring to these pictures when I start investigating my problem. It seems intimidating when working on a component that is enclosed in a structure that limits one's view...especially when you start removing screws from the outside and things start falling on the inside!

Woody

[richard2717]

Unless you are prepared to become frustrated try doing it while still attached to the door. they are a bear to get the clips holding the rods unclipped. I took all of it out still hooked together but you have to take the window regulator out as well. It was easier for me bc I had the door laying on the table. As long as the window is all the way up and the inner door panel removed, you should be able to see all points thru the holes in the door using a flash light.
I still can't figure out why GM went thru all the trouble to put the lever at the front of the door instead of straight up from the latch like the front doors.

[HO455]

I'm sure some bean counter figured out it was cheaper to put all that linkage in the door instead of installing a 3rd lock cylinder. It's not much more effort to unlock the front door and reach around the pillar to open the 3rd door, but none the less it is one of the very few things about a 3 door that I find annoying.

And thank you Richard for posting the photos. I too will make use of them.

[richard2717]

Originally Posted by HO455

I'm sure some bean counter figured out it was cheaper to put all that linkage in the door instead of installing a 3rd lock cylinder. It's not much more effort to unlock the front door and reach around the pillar to open the 3rd door, but none the less it is one of the very few things about a 3 door that I find annoying.

And thank you Richard for posting the photos. I too will make use of them.

Actually I guess that makes sense as to why they moved it to the front of the door. It would be hard to reach if it was in the rear position.

Let me know if clearer pics are needed. I can pull it back off the shelf and get better pics. Those are not the best with them sitting on the metal table

[Beach-Burban]

Success!!! A little bit of penetrating oil goes a long way! The lock stem goes up and down very easily now...thanks to all! I also found that the lock cylinder is turned sideways so the "U" shaped lock bracket wouldn't even engage with the cylinder arm IF I had a key...so I still have some work to do???

Woody

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by Beach-Burban

Well then, new rear coil springs are in our future! Thanks for the insight, Leon...any thoughts on "variable rate springs" as opposed to "constant rate springs"?

Woody

I don't know what the pro's and cons of the two would be unless the variable rate springs would carry more weight. I guess the more weight you put on them the stiffer they would get.

LockDoc

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by Beach-Burban

Success!!! A little bit of penetrating oil goes a long way! The lock stem goes up and down very easily now...thanks to all! I also found that the lock cylinder is turned sideways so the "U" shaped lock bracket wouldn't even engage with the cylinder arm IF I had a key...so I still have some work to do???

Woody

The holes in the front doors have notches cut in them for the tabs on the lock cylinder to fit into. That is what keeps them from turning when you turn the key to unlock the door. Maybe the hole in the 3rd door doesn't have the notches and the cylinder turned in the hole.

I'm sure I have a cylinder that your ignition key will fit into and if you send me a key I can re-key it to match your doors and ignition. I would run about $15 for the lock and re-keying it.

LockDoc

[Beach-Burban]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

The holes in the front doors have notches cut in them for the tabs on the lock cylinder to fit into. That is what keeps them from turning when you turn the key to unlock the door. Maybe the hole in the 3rd door doesn't have the notches and the cylinder turned in the hole.

I'm sure I have a cylinder that your ignition key will fit into and if you send me a key I can re-key it to match your doors and ignition. I would run about $15 for the lock and re-keying it.

LockDoc

PM sent.

Woody

[Beach-Burban]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

The holes in the front doors have notches cut in them for the tabs on the lock cylinder to fit into. That is what keeps them from turning when you turn the key to unlock the door. Maybe the hole in the 3rd door doesn't have the notches and the cylinder turned in the hole.

I'm sure I have a cylinder that your ignition key will fit into and if you send me a key I can re-key it to match your doors and ignition. I would run about $15 for the lock and re-keying it.

LockDoc

Notice anything different??? Yes...there are keys hanging from a WORKING 3rd door lock cylinder! Shout out to LockDoc...thanks Leon! Installation wasn't too difficult to figure out even though I've never done it before...and the PO did a real nice job cutting the notches that locked the barrel into place, so the only adjustments I needed was to the cylinder engagement arm...a little too short. A couple of bends in the right direction was all it took! A big part of this fix was following the lubrication suggestions members passed along my way, so that when it all went together, nothing was hanging up. Thanks to all!

Woody

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by Beach-Burban

Notice anything different??? Yes...there are keys hanging from a WORKING 3rd door lock cylinder! Shout out to LockDoc...thanks Leon! Installation wasn't too difficult to figure out even though I've never done it before...and the PO did a real nice job cutting the notches that locked the barrel into place, so the only adjustments I needed was to the cylinder engagement arm...a little too short. A couple of bends in the right direction was all it took! A big part of this fix was following the lubrication suggestions members passed along my way, so that when it all went together, nothing was hanging up. Thanks to all!

Woody

Hey! Glad to see you got it installed and working.

Glad I could help out.

LockDoc

[FLYNAVY30]

Woody, did you decide what springs you're going to go with yet? I too am trying to decide between the constant and variable rate springs for the rear.

Another random question, what web site are you using to host your pics for posting?

[Beach-Burban]

Originally Posted by FLYNAVY30

Woody, did you decide what springs you're going to go with yet? I too am trying to decide between the constant and variable rate springs for the rear.

Another random question, what web site are you using to host your pics for posting?

Hi Greg...I seem to be stuck in research mode on the springs and can't get to the bottom line. Probably will get the variable rate as that is what came with the nine passenger version and as I see it, they are the same spring as the C/20 for the rear. Up front, I need to get 3/4 ton standard height (they equipped nine passenger C/10 Burbs with 3/4 ton suspension)...but for a big block, as my C/10 came originally came with a 350...and everything I see says "not for big block"???

As for the website...I don't use one. I upload from my IPhone to Photos on my Mac, transfer from one album to another marked "Suburban", then when I draw from that directly to my post, the pictures are no longer upside down. It's a little bit of a process, but I'm kind of used to it now, so no big deal!

Woody

[FLYNAVY30]

Thanks Woody! Part numbers for a C20 3/4 ton big block are as follows:

Front: Moog #6104
Rear Constant: Moog #6101
Rear Variable: Moog #CC603
Rear Constant HD: Moog #6103
Rear Variable HD: Moog CC615

I'm nut sure what the difference is between the regular and the HD springs. My truck never had the 3rd row, so I'm probably going to go with the constant rate 6104 front and 6101 rear for now.

[Beach-Burban]

Originally Posted by FLYNAVY30

Thanks Woody! Part numbers for a C20 3/4 ton big block are as follows:

Front: Moog #6104
Rear Constant: Moog #6101
Rear Variable: Moog #CC603
Rear Constant HD: Moog #6103
Rear Variable HD: Moog CC615

I'm nut sure what the difference is between the regular and the HD springs. My truck never had the 3rd row, so I'm probably going to go with the constant rate 6104 front and 6101 rear for now.

And thank you to you as well, Greg!

Woody

[FLYNAVY30]

For what its worth Woody, I just placed my order through Rock Auto. I went with the 6104/6101 constant rate combo. I did note that the 6104 is the only front spring listed for the C20 with a big block....its listed as the heavy duty option for a C20 with a small block with 6102 being the standard for the small block.

Though now that I talk through that, I probably should have gone with the 6102 in front, given the fact that I've got an LS motor in front now. Hmmmm....I may need to call Rock Auto in the morning and adjust my order.

Bottom line is 6102/6101 are the standard rate springs (front/rear) for a small block C20
6104/6103 are the standard rate spring (front/rear) for a big block C20, or a small block with the HD option.

Clear as mud right??

[FLYNAVY30]

One other tip, if you're going to do the trailing arm and track bar bushings at the same time as the springs, go through Brother's...they have OEM rubber bushings....LMC only sells the poly bushings as that's what just showed up at my door, despite not being listed as poly in the listing. Lots of documented cases of poly bushings failing prematurely over on the Corvette forum in any application where the bushing sees any sort of twist (ie control arms and track bar mounts).

[Beach-Burban]

As of yet, I have not followed through with replacing the springs, bump stops or related bushings...but I was able to get my three bench seats to the auto upholsterer. Amadeus (owner of the family run business "Amadeus Auto Upholstery") came highly recommended by my mechanic friend Jerry for excellent results at a reasonable price...and when I met him, Amadeus was an extremely knowledgeable and likable person. I had made a list (along with drawings) of my ideas of how I wanted the seats done, and he was very accommodating with my wishes. More on the particulars of my requests after I get the finished products back with pictures posted as well...but I'm hoping that I don't upset any "purists" in the group with my choices, as I tried to blend the traditional look with a little twist. Just remember...I named this Suburban "Beach-Burban" for a reason, so I hope it turns out pleasing to the eye (or most eyes)!

Woody

[Beach-Burban]

I just got my bench seats back from the upholsterer...and I'm beyond satisfied! Amadeus took a couple weeks longer to finish them, but truthfully, I asked for a lot of special touches...and he certainly delivered! Front bench: Rebuilt and repainted frame with new springs; hand built/shaped foam (firm base with soft topper) and bolsters on both sides of the drivers and passengers bottom; fold away center armrest with tray and cup holder...plus, the "Beach-Burban" twist I warned you about! Middle and rear seats: Added a little firmness to the original foam (they had hardly been used); repainted frames and covered to match. All three benches received an extra thick layer of padding along the top edge of the seat to prevent the welded nubs of the wire back mesh from prematurely wearing through (like all the originals do). He also made new side panels that followed the lines of the door panels, but without any of the scrolling. Lastly, he made new sun visors. Everything came out better than I had expected!

Woody

[FLYNAVY30]

Woody, that interior is absolutely brilliant!

[richard2717]

Looks nice

[Bigdav160]

Love it!

[HO455]

Stunning!

I've started doing a very similar front seat set up. I have a ford bench seat I have disassembled to get the pieces for to convert my front seat. What did you use for your arm rest? How deep are the cup holders? If it's not too much trouble a couple of photos of arm rest part would certainly be appreciated.
Thanks and once again it looks just stunning!

[Beach-Burban]

Originally Posted by FLYNAVY30

Woody, that interior is absolutely brilliant!

Thanks Greg...I'm pretty happy with the results! You would not believe the hurdles I had to jump to get the Longboard material because that pattern (made by Sunbrella) was discontinued years ago...so I had to put my detective skills to work in order to find someone that had a partial roll sitting on a shelf!

Woody

[Beach-Burban]

Originally Posted by richard2717

Looks nice

I appreciate that Richard...not everyone's taste, I'm sure...but it works for us!

Woody

[Beach-Burban]

Originally Posted by Bigdav160

Love it!

Thanks Bigdav...I love it..."when a plan comes together!" (A-Team reference)

Woody