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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Spokane, Wa
Posts: 112
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R406a Refrigerant
Hi everyone, been doing some research on refrigerants and came across a drop in substitute for R12, R406a. However I cannot locate anywhere to purchase this R406a. From what I can tell, there was a product called "Autofrost" which was R406a that people could buy for some time but it looks like all that is available now is just expensive small quantities on eBay, like R12. Does anyone know what happened? Here's a write-up someone did about 15 years ago on their R406a install on a Camaro:
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/cool...st-review.html Also here is a scientific write up on the chemical: https://yarchive.net/ac/r406a.html I'd love to be able to locate a 30lb cylinder of the stuff. Thanks |
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#2 |
Moderator
![]() Join Date: May 2007
Location: Southern Cal
Posts: 20,004
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Re: R406a Refrigerant
Check your local Craigslist, OfferUp, and Facebook marketplace. I routinely find r12 for $10 a can and have stockpiled it for years now.
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1972 C/10 Cheyenne Super SWB. Restored, loaded, slammed. 1968 C/10 50th Anniversary LWB. Unrestored, stock, daily driver/work truck. RIP ElJay RIP 67ChevyRedneck RIP Grumpy Old Man |
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#3 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Dunwoody,Ga
Posts: 443
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Re: R406a Refrigerant
I had a friend that ran a garage and when the price of R12 went through the roof he found a refrigerant that was FR12. For the like of me I can't remember the company that made it. Anyway it was plug compatible and was priced like R12 used to be.
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#4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Chattanooga, TN
Posts: 2,149
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Re: R406a Refrigerant
I do not understand why people want to use strange refrigerants. R12 and R134A are pretty readily available. The cost of a charge is like $40-60 if you look around for cans. That is a drop in the bucket compared to rebuilding or replacing the rest of the a/c system.
Many of the "substitutes" are either butane/flammable (I know, I know tiny chance- but do you really want butane at high pressure under your hood in a crash?) or have crazy mismatched size molecules. Think of ping-pong balls and BBs. When the BBs eventually leak out you are left with ping-pong balls and no way to balance the charge. What is left may or may not be corrosive and/or damage seals. You have to vent it and start over because nobody with a shop will touch it-and if they do they will charge a premium for disposal. IMHO stick with R12 or convert to R134. The auto manufacturers have spent many millions developing auto A/C systems. If the other refrigerants were safe and reliable for less money you bet you they would have already used them long ago.
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