A '54 named Busty

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by layinrocker65

I like to store all my pretty parts in the living room. Got a new turbo sitting on the mantel.

Awesome, how long have you been single? ha ha (jk)

[Gregski]

so here is my 1954 to 2004 LS Swap To Do list:

1. Install transmission crossmember, the B&M shifter 4L60E cable bracket, run custom steel braided lines and 6 AN fittings to radiator

2. Install exhaust manifolds and modify downpipes to fit

3. Install fuel system in tank electric fuel pump and sending unit, inline fuel filter, steel braided hoses and 6 AN fittings to quick connect fuel rails

4. Plumb the power steering pump using 6AN fittings and steel braided hoses

5. Plumb water pump (upper and lower hoses, heater core bypass, and vent tube)

6. Install drive by wire throttle pedal

7. Install, reroute, and shorten engine wiring harness, find a place to mount the PCM, and build a custom fuse and relay block

8. Install driveshaft (may need to be shortened)

[joedoh]

nice work on the swappin!

[Gregski]

So I'm at a bit of stand still waiting on the 4L60E transmission crossmember to arrive, so took some pics of the little tickle I gave to the trans tunnel front lip to slide the gearbox under it, I may hammer and dolly it nice and flat some day (probably not, ha ha)

I also regret not lifting the tunnel cover to clean it's border properly prior to priming, painting, and undercoating it, oh well

[Gregski]

I also couldn't help myself and set the intake on the 5.3L just to see her in full bloom, she dusty from sitting on the garage shelf for almost a year, but she fit right in - looks like she's going 45 MPH just standing still, don't it, ha ha

I sure aint worried about hood clearances with that tall hood

[dsraven]

Are you sticking with the clutch fan or going electric?

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by dsraven

Are you sticking with the clutch fan or going electric?

i hope to run the mechanical but plan on adding two wires to the harness for an electric fan just in case, why? what are you thinking?

[dsraven]

Clutch fan working well could depend on height of engine and what is blocking air flow for it. Maybe pre wiring is a good idea

[texxxan]

Busty is looking so good. I'm jealous.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by texxxan

Busty is looking so good. I'm jealous.

fanks

[Gregski]

so why WE are still waiting on parts, I decided to do what I do best and focus on things that involve huge amounts of work with not much to show for...

[Gregski]

... project Flatapus

[Gregski]

surely but slowly it's getting there, and mind you I only bid this job because of its hideability factor, it's not like we are fixing the hood or the roof of a split window Corvette ... so, carpet and paint makes me the welder I aint

[Gregski]

the transmission crossmember arrived today and it is such a nice piece, and made for such an easy install, the two bottom holes of each bracket lined up perfectly with two existing holes on the C channel stock truck frame rail, it was unreal - I am calling this my even a blind squirrel finds a nut sometime moment

all I have to do is drill two more top holes on either side and Flo's your aunt

[Gregski]

motivated by the easy transmission crossmember install I pressed on, anyone's who done an LS Swap will tell you the devil's in the details

here I am installing the heater core delete crossover horse shoe

Note the nipples are of different size as is the specialty bypass hose

[Gregski]

this proved much more difficult then it appears, I had to keep trimming the rubber hose 1/4 inch at a time until it cleared the suspension upper arm knuckle thingie

[Gregski]

the power steering hoses were next, usually I unscrew the high pressure hard line from the back and screw in one of my old square body nipples in there, but today I felt like making some spaghetti

[Gregski]

so with the engine and transmission mounted in place it was time to give the ol' stock exhaust manifolds a trial fit, and no dice, Houston we have a problem!

[Gregski]

the thought of cutting off the three bolt flanges and re clocking them did cross my mind (as these are cast steel and not cast iron) however I decided to throw money at the problem instead, especially since Summit sales copy cat Hooker two bolt flange manifolds for half price $170, score!) and no, no headers for me I'm much too old for that rodeo

I also picked up some Hooker down pipes as they had the O2 bugs already in them and a matching two bold flange, winning

Note: I am running the Hooker 2.5" manifolds on my '74 LS Swap and I will tell you that they ain't 2.5" at all they are more restrictive than stock - very dissapointing!

[Gregski]

So here is our LS Swap - Progress Report Card - LSS-PRC

1. Mount the engine - Done!

2. Mount the transmission - Done!

3. Install Heater Bypass - Done!

4. Plumb the Power Steering - Done!

5. Plumb the transmission fluid lines - Done!

6. Install shifter cable

7. Install and plumb fuel system

8. Plumb the water pump

9. Install exhaust manifolds and down pipes - awaiting parts

10. Install drive by wire throttle pedal

11. Install engine wiring harness

12. Get the drive shaft shortened 3"

13. Install the cold air intake

[joedoh]

if you know your center to center u joint distance, you can usually find a driveshaft that is exact or close. if I had to guess from your engine placement you will need a 53" center to center? reg cab short bed s10 is 53", the slip yoke will fit your trans and the rear u joint should bolt to whatever is in back.


if you are going to order one make sure you measure center to center with weight on wheels, and leave 1-2" stickout on the slip joint.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by joedoh

if you know your center to center u joint distance, you can usually find a driveshaft that is exact or close. if I had to guess from your engine placement you will need a 53" center to center? reg cab short bed s10 is 53", the slip yoke will fit your trans and the rear u joint should bolt to whatever is in back.

if you are going to order one make sure you measure center to center with weight on wheels, and leave 1-2" stickout on the slip joint.

yup you're close the stock Camaro one was 57 1/2" center to center of U joint the one I need needs to be exactly three inches shorter so 54 1/2"

I like to run 3/4 to 1" stick out on my yoke in the transmission, so 54 1/2" gives me 1" exactly, so I'm afraid the s10 will be too short

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by Gregski

yup you're close the stock Camaro one was 57 1/2" center to center of U joint the one I need needs to be exactly three inches shorter so 54 1/2"

I like to run 3/4 to 1" stick out on my yoke in the transmission, so 54 1/2" gives me 1" exactly, so I'm afraid the s10 will be too short

g body overdrive is 54"? that gets you closer.

it looks like your passenger head is tucked right against the firewall, thats usually a 53" for mine when its like that, not based on the engine but the trans bellhousing of the 4l60e. interesting, is all. thats on 118" wheelbase too, yours is presumably still 116.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by joedoh

g body overdrive is 54"? that gets you closer.

it looks like your passenger head is tucked right against the firewall, thats usually a 53" for mine when its like that, not based on the engine but the trans bellhousing of the 4l60e. interesting, is all. thats on 118" wheelbase too, yours is presumably still 116.

thanks for all your help, in my neck of the woods it is impossible to find an undamaged driveshaft at the local Pick N Pulls since they use huge fork lifts to move the cars around and all of the torque sticks get damaged, they could be making $100 bucks a stick if they were more careful

and here's a better look at my passenger side cylinder head, seems almost even with the firewall, I know pics can be misleading because of the perception angles

[joedoh]

here they pull the driveshafts first, and poke holes in the gas tanks its always cheaper for me to find a shaft, $30-40 at a salvage vs $130 to shorten one at ITP. and if I start with an ext cab, I have to buy a new one piece anyway.