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06-27-2004, 01:18 PM
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#1 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Nova Scotia, Canada
Posts: 102
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Bed Removal...
I know this is probably a stupid question but, I do not have a torch, and was wondering what is the best way to cut through the bed bolts. I tried one and eventually got through it with a dremel cutting wheel and an air chisel. Now, I have a die grinder for my air compressor but didn't have a wheel for it yet, should I get a hard cutting wheel for the grinder, and countinue this way or is there a trick to it?
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1981 GMC Sierra 1500 4.1L I6 1985 GMC Sierra 1500 5.0L V8 (Parts Truck) 
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06-27-2004, 01:24 PM
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#2 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Longview tx
Posts: 270
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Yes, just get a grinding disk and grind the head off of the ones that you can't get out!
Trey |
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06-27-2004, 05:29 PM
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#3 |
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Under construction!
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: NorCal
Posts: 1,065
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Cut-off tool, sawzall, or a 4.5" grinder would all probably work.
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2001 Silverado bagged on 22's. *Sold* |
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06-27-2004, 05:56 PM
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#4 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Canada
Posts: 133
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me and my buddys dad took off mine with a impact gun and had to heat a few of them up , but they cam off just fine
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I need a 454 4 barrel and dad wont let me get one |
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06-27-2004, 07:16 PM
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#5 |
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Professional Grade
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Fort McMurray, Alberta
Posts: 7,915
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I used an angle grinder to grind the tops off, then push them down, at which point I cut the bottom in half so it would pull off.
Took me a little over an hour and a half to have the bed ready to come off...
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1995 Chevrolet 2 Door Tahoe (6.6L LBZ Duramax / ZF6 / NP241 with 1 ton solid axle swap) |
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06-28-2004, 12:01 AM
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#6 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Longview tx
Posts: 270
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When I put beds back on, I like to use a thin coat of neversieze (SP?) so that the bolts wont be so hard to get out next time!
Trey |
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06-28-2004, 12:30 AM
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#7 |
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Professional Grade
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Fort McMurray, Alberta
Posts: 7,915
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I had next to no floor left in mine, so I had to make myself some plates to spread the bolt pressure out a bit, also used a bunch of new bolts as well, worked like a charm. Midaswell have a wood floor, there are literally holes big enough for a person to fall through in my bed... Bascially a box with some plywood laid over the cross sills
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1995 Chevrolet 2 Door Tahoe (6.6L LBZ Duramax / ZF6 / NP241 with 1 ton solid axle swap) |
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07-11-2004, 10:27 AM
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#8 |
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AND HOLDING ON TO THE C10
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: MT.STERLING,KY
Posts: 390
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HEY MATT 305 i'm going to try something different on my 84 c10 since the bolts are not worth the problem in removing them to keep, i'm going to drill a 19/64 whole right in the center of the head on the bolt and use a 19/64 easy out and clamp some do it your self craftsman vise grips.and if that don't work i'm tack welding the head of the bolts to my bed floor and if that don't work I'm just going to my muffler shop and have joe heat them suckers up and take them out for about 20.00 and just put a couple new bolts in until i get back home for the life of me i can't understand why the factory put a bolt in with out a hex or allen head bolt so they could be removed a lot easier i know that's what i'm putting back in when i put my bed back on if anybody tries any of these solutions and they work or not let us know
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66 swb/ss chevy c10  SOLD62 swb/fs chevy c10 :p SOLD 84 swb/fs chevy c10      91 sdime 383/th350 
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