Panel Bond adhesive

[rechinca]

I am getting close to installing the inner cowl replacement piece. A thought occurred to me regarding 3M panel bond adhesive and their Structural panel adhesive. Do you think it would work instead of the 90 spotwelds I drilled out to remove it? I know it carries some weight and structure as the fenders bolt into it, so maybe the structural adhesive would be better. It may also help prevent some of the water/moisture penetration when combined with the seam sealer. Anybody have experience or thoughts on the subject?

[Roostre]

I just used 3M 08115 to glue my new outer roof skin on. It worked great and I didn't have to put in 89 spot welds. It has a 90 minute work time, 4 hour clamp time, and 24 hour cure. As long as I could get enough clamps on it, I don't think I'd be afraid to use it most anywhere.

I used to use a similar 3M product to glue semi truck fenders to the hood. We would take the clamps off and if we could lift the hood and jig with the fender, it was good. Only ever had one not bond, and the glue was past it's expiration date.

I wrote about my experience in my thread.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=784468

[rechinca]

Roostre I actually just found your thread and was reading it when you replied. Clamping is my only concern. There are some spots along the air vent packets I can clamp, but there are several areas along the base of the windshield and the gutter/wire channel I won’t be able to clamp. Just concerned I wouldn’t get the full bond and tight fit needed.

[rechinca]

It’s just occurred to me in looking at it, I may be able to set up some ratchet straps to provide clamping force in those areas. Especially if it has a 60-90 minute work/clamp time.

[GJB]

Do you have pictures?

[rechinca]

GJB not sure what you want in the way of pics but here is the area and patches I did the last two days. This is in the lower cowl and I have the complete re-pop inner cowl section as I had rust all around the bracing for the upper fender bolts. There were a ton of spotwelds and I was thinking the structural panel adhesive may work instead of 99 plug welds I have to make sure to NOT put in the same location as the previous ones.

[SCOTI]

The Panel Bond glue works but there is a caveat.... My buddy in the collision business says spot welds can be drilled out to do panel replacement (service) work. He said new stuff that's panel bonded is a PITA to get apart & typically damages more stuff around it when trying to separate things. That's not as big of a deal when doing insurance jobs but something to consider on classics/restorations.

We did panel bonding & selectively placed tack welds when doing the inner skin/back wall BBW conversion on my 64.

[Roostre]

I ended up using ratchet straps on the back of the roof for mine. In my experience, you don't need to have a lot of force on your clamps, but you do need enough of them. We tried to go every foot or so around the roof panel, and I think we could have had more. I also used some dowels under the jaws of the vise grips to spread out the clamp load some.

[rechinca]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

The Panel Bond glue works but there is a caveat.... My buddy in the collision business says spot welds can be drilled out to do panel replacement (service) work. He said new stuff that's panel bonded is a PITA to get apart & typically damages more stuff around it when trying to separate things. That's not as big of a deal when doing insurance jobs but something to consider on classics/restorations.

We did panel bonding & selectively placed tack welds when doing the inner skin/back wall BBW conversion on my 64.

My thought on the serviceability is that while important, I don’t think I am too worried about it. Not much else I am worried about replacing under there as I am killing the rust problems now. As far as the next guy down the road, yeah it could be a pain. I am thinking I just may end up plug welding it and be done.