LS3 and tr6060 on way, what else?

[Jonny Hotnuts]

I have a full liftout of an ls3/tr6060 coming.

Truck is a 70 c10 swb with 250.


A few questions about install:

-I know I will need a shifter relocator for the 6060. Is there one that is the standard for c10 swaps or one that worked well for your application? I need to know where to find one.
-What motor mounts will I need to go from the 250 to 6.2?
-where can I find a slip yoke conversion?
-Is there any other trans stuff Ill need (cross members/mounts/linkages?)
-Is there anything else I will need for the install?


A few questions about 'before install':

Engine has 88K. I want only bare bones (no AC, no PS).

-Is their a pulley kit I will need to get rid of AC/PS?
-Do I need to replace the pan?
-I will replace the oil pump. Is there a better brand?
-Any radiator recommendations?
-With 88K is there anything else I should do to the motor?


Thanks for any advice or info! Poop just got real for this project.



~JH

[Overdriven]

https://www.tickperformance.com/tr-6...onversion-kit/
Is a slip yoke conversion using t56 magnum tail shaft and comes with a shifter. T56 you can unbolt and rotate the shifter base 180 degrees to move the shifter forward 3.6 inches. Some have made this location work depending on engine position, seats and shifter. There are shifters for the “front” position of a t56 that from what I’ve read will work on the 6060.

The other option is talking to your local driveshaft shop and seeing if they can make a driveshaft with a slip yoke built in. Then you can use an adapter to go from the flange to a traditional u-joint. Or if the driveshaft shop is really good they’ll build the shaft with a u-joint or cv in it, slip yoke and the flange on the end. These options tend to be pricey and require a larger diameter driveshaft as well.

Found some good info here https://threepedals.com/blog/technic...trofit-tr6060/

[57taskforce]

Most Camaro guys swap the LS3 pump for a melling high volume pump. The relief in the LS3 pump sticking open is a known issue that all too often turns into engine replacement.

[kipps]

You'll need to figure out a clutch linkage. I'm sure the TR6060 has an internal slave. You'll need to find some way to adapt that to a clutch master cylinder. I don't know much about the 67-72 trucks. If you had a 73-87, I'd suggest that you buy a pedal box assembly and master cylinder from a 85-87 truck, which came stock with a hydraulic clutch. I don't know if you'd be better off trying to adapt 85-87 pedals and master, or if you should just go full aftermarket. Regardless, determine what the bore size was on the 2010-15 Camaro clutch master cylinder, and try to match that. That way, you can guarantee you're pushing the slave the correct amount.

AC won't be a problem. Assuming the LS3 is the same as the Vortecs, the compressor is on it's own belt. You can delete it without consequence.

With only 88k, just stab the engine in and run it. I wouldn't mess with any gaskets or seals, unless you know it's leaking.

[Jonny Hotnuts]

Guys does the 6L80e solve a lot of problems on the install?

~JH

[kipps]

Originally Posted by Jonny Hotnuts

Guys does the 6L80e solve a lot of problems on the install?

It's undoubtedly easier to install than a manual. Most automatics are.

But by now, since you have the tr6060 on the way, you'll be in it for way too much money to make the switch. You'd need a complete new engine/trans harness, quite a bit of custom tuning, plus the cost of a good 6l80. You're going down the right track. I wouldn't quit yet.

Do a google search for "tr6060 67-72." Also search for "67-72 hydraulic clutch." There's nothing new under the sun. Somebody has done it before, and now with the internet, it's been documented for us to read.

[Captainfab]

I make booster brackets with the hydraulic clutch conversion for the '60-'62, '63-'66, '67-'68 and '69-'72's. I have sold many, many of them with good feedback.

[nsb29]

I had a turbo 400 bolt in yoke turndown to match. Had Denys drive shaft build a shaft with a slip like they do the 4x4 don’t remember the cost but very reasonable works great

[clay68c10]

Captain Fab for the hydro clutch. Stick with the stick!! Way too few manuals out there, seems nobody wants to shift for themselves.

Hooker/Holly for the frame stands to mount the engine. Maybe the headers too if it’s in your budget.

[57taskforce]

I’ve got captains hydro clutch setup. Im nothing but thrilled with it. I’ve got another truck to do in the days ahead.

[Skyd Ram]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

I make booster brackets with the hydraulic clutch conversion for the '60-'62, '63-'66, '67-'68 and '69-'72's. I have sold many, many of them with good feedback.

Do you have a link to the clutch conversion brackets?

And do have something for guys sticking with manual brakes?

[kipps]

Originally Posted by Skyd Ram

And do have something for guys sticking with manual brakes?

Please Don't!!

You're effectively going to be running around with a lightweight 2010 Camaro with bad handling characteristics. You need all the braking power you can get.

[Captainfab]

Here is the for sale thread.

http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...d.php?t=652871

I can delete the booster mounts for a discount of $25.00. I would strongly suggest power brakes with the drivetrain you are installing. But that of course is up to you.

Originally Posted by Skyd Ram

Do you have a link to the clutch conversion brackets?

And do have something for guys sticking with manual brakes?

[57taskforce]

Originally Posted by kipps

Please Don't!!

You're effectively going to be running around with a lightweight 2010 Camaro with bad handling characteristics. You need all the braking power you can get.

I agree! The SS Camaro’s have 14” front and 14.4” rear brakes for a reason. All go and no whoa is a recipe for disaster.

[Jonny Hotnuts]

OK guys here is an update.
Just after I asked in this thread 'would installing an automatic' solve a bunch of problems I called my friend and confirmed if he still had the 'L99 with 6L80' that I was also considering.

Well he had it so he shipped that instead of the LS3 with the tr6060. I got it for less money and the l99 had less miles.




The engine is in awesome shape. I got a CRAZY good deal on it especially considering its got less than 50K miles.

4 days to go!!!!

Part of me hates that I took the easy way out...but Ive got to finish a bathroom remod and then new countertops in the kitchen. I actually didnt want to update this thread for a while because I (and likely others in the future) was still interested in how these problems were handled.

Seriously thanks for all the answers on this topic.


ALSO.....


I have front/rear discs but no booster. I will explore putting a can on it in the near future.
~JH

[57taskforce]

Delete the AFM at a minimum before you install it. Those AFM lifters are by far the biggest weakness of the L99, it’s already got a high volume pump from the factory, so it doesn’t have near the oil pump problems the LS3 does. I love my L99, with a decent tune in stock form they really come to life, a trans tune in itself is a night and day difference in performance.

[clay68c10]

It’s hard to beat a nice combo at the right price. It will be a strong runner.
I’m in the same boat with the house stuff. It eats up a lot of time.

Have you considered hydroboost? It works well.

[Jonny Hotnuts]

Its home! The pic doesnt do it justice but it is exceptionally clean.




I will start a new thread about the build process for this piece. I am doing a VVT3 cam and 3200 rpm stall.

~JH

[57taskforce]

You’ll like that vvt3/stall combo. If I may I’d suggest a gpi cam. They have a real good reputation in the Camaro world. They will tune that vvt setup remotely better than most anyone in the country.

[kipps]

I'm going to disagree on deleting the AFM. Leave it all intact, and just turn it off in the tune. At 50k miles, it shouldn't ever give you trouble if you simply turn it off now.

If you delete the AFM, the replacement camshaft will likely require more tuning to get it dialed in right. If you keep the parts you have, and can get the MAF and intake piping close to stock, it should be running strong right out of the gate.

I wouldn't even unbolt the trans from the engine. Just order up some mounts, stab the whole thing in, and go. The rear yoke will need some changes though, to convert it to a slip-yoke or u-joint.

[nsb29]

Originally Posted by Jonny Hotnuts

Its home! The pic doesnt do it justice but it is exceptionally clean.




I will start a new thread about the build process for this piece. I am doing a VVT3 cam and 3200 rpm stall.

~JH

Looks like mine even the same pedal what did it come from

[LS short box]

I would check with your cam supplier in regards to upgraded valve springs, push rods and I would be shocked if they would recommend keeping the AFM lifters. Keeping the VVT I understand the add to low end torque but if you are running a 3200 stall converter in my opinion you don't need it. I've done a couple of L92 LS swaps with 2800-3200 stall converters from Yank and Circle and more low end torque will mean you get to buy more tires. I didn't look up your cam specs but I've had real good luck with 225I/230E around .600 lift and 114 cam c/l. Plenty of vacuum for power brakes. 425 rwhp with a real mild 91 octane tune. 425 rwhp is about 490 crank hp.

[Jonny Hotnuts]

Originally Posted by nsb29

Looks like mine even the same pedal what did it come from

2012 Camaro SS was on the tag. My friends son works at a wrecking yard in Atlanta and he was going to put it in a foxbody but other projects got in the way. He made me a great deal on it.

On that note (other projects).....



Here is todays pic of a remod Im doing in bathroom #2 (of 5, 3 to go).
for something fun I am installing a 4k TV in the back section of the shower shelf (son put a shampoo bottle for example). I will play a streaming service that has random aquariums 24/7. Its hard to see now but it should be neat once its done.

-Oh....and this is the second price I pay to buy expensive motors for vehicles I dont even really drive. LOL

~JH

[Jonny Hotnuts]

Originally Posted by kipps

I'm going to disagree on deleting the AFM. Leave it all intact, and just turn it off in the tune. At 50k miles, it shouldn't ever give you trouble if you simply turn it off now.

If you delete the AFM, the replacement camshaft will likely require more tuning to get it dialed in right. If you keep the parts you have, and can get the MAF and intake piping close to stock, it should be running strong right out of the gate.

I wouldn't even unbolt the trans from the engine. Just order up some mounts, stab the whole thing in, and go. The rear yoke will need some changes though, to convert it to a slip-yoke or u-joint.

You are right....but also wrong.

I sooooo want to just leave it alone. It would be less money, less hassle, take less time, be easier....but...
I have set a couple landspeed records on the salt falts and have been involved in racing my whole life. IF I left the afm it would crush my spirit. I know that must sound dumb but knowing it was in there would eat at me day and night. Its the whole idea of DOD by concept being in a hot rod!
But....you are correct. Ill never 'need' as much horsepower as it produces in stock form AND would get better MPG. Im just not that practical!

~JH

[Captainfab]

Your son's shirt says "Bergen Norway" I've actually been there as well as many other places in Norway about 4 years ago. That was the trip of a lifetime for me. Have you been to Norway?