Door latch adjustment?

[Asshat]

Seems to be no slots on the hinge plate. After installing new door seals, the door will not latch unless I slam it really hard.
The pin on the hinge is good no sagging and it lines up with the body.

[nsb29]

It’s probably the door seals what kind did you use

[Asshat]

Originally Posted by nsb29

It’s probably the door seals what kind did you use

The glue-in type, from the Truck Shop.

[The Rocknrod]

Ouch, glue in.

[Asshat]

Originally Posted by The Rocknrod

Ouch, glue in.

Should I tear these out and use the others? Which ones are best? From Rubber The Right Way?

[cwcarpenter98]

I would recommend adjusting the latch plate before going with another set of seals. On the cab side, there's 4 bolts that you can loosen up. No need to take them all the way out, you only need to loosen them up. You can move that plate in-out, up-down several times until you find the sweet spot. It took me many adjustments before I finally got them shutting nicely

[nsb29]

I used precision door seals they press on no glue Door adjustment is all so important I also had to adjust the pinch seem by bending some of it in word and some of it outward so I had even seal all the way around more than likely your original style seal is your problem or most of it

[yelmer]

The seals will start to compress might take a few months put the truck outside on a hot day . Mine were the same with nos seals they are good now

[joesscamaro]

I used the Civic seals and fumbled with my OG latches and couldn’t get them to fit how I wanted. I replaced the door hinge pins and even though they felt ok...once I took them apart, could definitely tell they were extremely worn. Aaaaand then I bought the Altman door latches and wish I had done that from the get go. They, to me, were much easier to adjust and shut like a dream with the new seals. Highly recommend!

[Asshat]

Originally Posted by joesscamaro

I used the Civic seals and fumbled with my OG latches and couldn’t get them to fit how I wanted. I replaced the door hinge pins and even though they felt ok...once I took them apart, could definitely tell they were extremely worn. Aaaaand then I bought the Altman door latches and wish I had done that from the get go. They, to me, were much easier to adjust and shut like a dream with the new seals. Highly recommend!

Those Altman latches are expensive, aren’t they?

[Asshat]

Originally Posted by cwcarpenter98

I would recommend adjusting the latch plate before going with another set of seals. On the cab side, there's 4 bolts that you can loosen up. No need to take them all the way out, you only need to loosen them up. You can move that plate in-out, up-down several times until you find the sweet spot. It took me many adjustments before I finally got them shutting nicely

Geez, what a pain. Finally found where they latch, but still have to slam it pretty hard.

[cwcarpenter98]

I still had to slam my doors pretty hard until after I replaced the hinge pins and bushings and then adjusted the latch plate on the cab side of the door opening. My passenger side door hinge pins felt ok, but I decided to replace them anyways. I'm glad I did because one of the pins had sheared in two inside the hinge. Couldn't see it was broken from the outside. The driver's side was just slap worn out

[joesscamaro]

Originally Posted by Asshat

Those Altman latches are expensive, aren’t they?

They’re not cheap, but they are a breeze to install and my doors close perfectly with no slamming.

[Asshat]

Originally Posted by joesscamaro

They’re not cheap, but they are a breeze to install and my doors close perfectly with no slamming.

What is involved? Do you need to remove the door?

[nsb29]

If it’s your seals the latch won’t fix it

[AcampoDave]

Sitting inside and closing a sheet of paper in the door as a feeler guage works pretty well for figuring out where the tight spots are. Sometimes the leading edge comes in too tight around the kick panel or wing window and that won't allow the trailing or latching side to make contact without a slam. I resorted to pulling the fender and cab corner, inspecting all my hinges and hardware, then using my floorjack and a wood block as a third hand to support the door. Then readjusted the whole deal working the paper around the perimeter. There are a few variables: the leading edge, the trailing edge, then there are angular adjustments to square the door in the opening. The hinge bolts on the door are in and out, the bolts on the pillar are up and down. Move one more than the other for angular adjustment. I actually removed the striker until I got the door in the ballpark to where the gaps looked good and the paper test was showing even pressure on the weatherstrip as i held it closed. Then I put on the striker and adjusted it for a gentle close. It was a bear but I kept my cool and by the end of the weekend my doors were great.

[cwcarpenter98]

Originally Posted by AcampoDave

Sitting inside and closing a sheet of paper in the door as a feeler guage works pretty well for figuring out where the tight spots are. Sometimes the leading edge comes in to tight around the kick panel or wing window and that wont allow the trailing or latching side to make contact without a slam. I resorted to pulling the fender and cab corner, inspecting all my hinges and hardware, then using my floorjack and a wood block as a third hand to support the door. Then readjusted the whole deal working the paper around the perimeter. There are a few variables: the leading edge, the trailing edge, then there are angular adjustments to square the door in the opening. The hinge bolts on the door are in and out, the bolts on the pillar are up and down. Move one more than the other for angular adjustment. I actually removed the striker until I got the door in the ballpark to where the gaps looked good and the paper test was showing even pressure on the weatherstrip as i held it closed. Then I put on the striker and adjusted it for a gentle close. It was a bear but I kept my cool and by the end of the weekend my doors were great.

My doors could still use some fine tuning. I'll be using the paper trick to make it easier for sure. Thanks!

[AcampoDave]

Originally Posted by cwcarpenter98

My doors could still use some fine tuning. I'll be using the paper trick to make it easier for sure. Thanks!

Then, if we could just keep our passegers from slamming the heck outta them.

[The Rocknrod]

Here's a pretty good video on the subject - https://youtu.be/spQ33iIRT4M
Before I'd go changing latches I'd do this.

[cwcarpenter98]

Originally Posted by AcampoDave

Then, if we could just keep our passegers from slamming the heck outta them.

Yes! For the longest time, I had to tell my friends to slam the door, but now it doesn't need as much of a slam and they still slam it. I open and close the door for my friends now cause that's much easier

[roll_the_dice]

Originally Posted by AcampoDave

Then, if we could just keep our passegers from slamming the heck outta them.

YES! That was always a pet peeve of my dad...he would get so mad if someone slammed a door...I guess I am carrying that torch now...because I can't stand when someone slams the door on any vehicle.

[joesscamaro]

Originally Posted by nsb29

If it’s your seals the latch won’t fix it

Very true. I tried to get my door alignment relatively close (gaps) without the seal and the striker and then installed my seal and sticker and worked it in from there. It’s a pain but it feels good when you get them dialed in