Retro Looking Radios - Options?

[DA71Grande]

I have the retrosound Long Beach but used the old deluxe knob to give it a more factory look

[darguy]

Originally Posted by darguy

Thanks for the tip, I've been communicating with Joe Cilluffo and sorting out a donor for a conversion. I'll likely go with the optional RCA outputs so I can add external amplification later if needed. One step at a time...

Update: I won an auction on eBay for a 'survivor' correct AM and it's being shipped to Joe's Classic Car Radio to be upgraded. AM/FM, 4x 45W channels w/ RCA outs, Bluetooth 5.0 & USB/Aux compatible with the latest file formats. I'll post pictures when it arrives - but it's gonna be Feb before it gets to the top of the pile and to my hands. Gives me time to sort out speakers.

It all really boiled down to wanting an analogue display, and the new options for those not having great reviews. And, thinking ahead to what type of instrumentation I'm going to go with down the road...

Cheers,
D.

[Rich72C10]

It will be great to hear back from you with pictures/thoughts of the conversion!


PS: I just googled "Cortes Island, BC" ... I want to live there now! LOL

[Ironhorse]

X2 on the conversion thoughts. I have an original truck AM/FM in 71 4x4 (not converted) but am thinking of having my original push button AM radio in my 57 Chevy 2dr sedan converted to AM/FM. Just not sure who to go with. Never heard of Joe's Classic Car Radio. Where is he from?

[samkost]

Because I had a cut radio dash, I went with the RetroSound Long Beach and used their optional DIN install kit with one of their numerous choices of faceplates.
Respectful power but I am going to install an extra external amplifier to drive my Infinity speakers to their full potential.
More power=better, cleaner sound with less distortion.

Installation was fairly simple but was a tad awkward. I had to install and remove the head unit three times to set its adjustable knob settings correctly to fit my dash.

For a basic replacement radio set up that resembles a somewhat stock appearance, I’m happy with its easy supportive connections for Bluetooth, USB, external amp and subwoofer features.
An external amp and an under bench seat subwoofer is in the works.

[darguy]

Originally Posted by Ironhorse

X2 on the conversion thoughts. I have an original truck AM/FM in 71 4x4 (not converted) but am thinking of having my original push button AM radio in my 57 Chevy 2dr sedan converted to AM/FM. Just not sure who to go with. Never heard of Joe's Classic Car Radio. Where is he from?

South Carolina, I hadn't heard of him either but got the link from Rich72C10 in post #9. There are lots of people doing this, for the most part using Aurora Design circuit boards from what I can gather. So, I think the difference comes down to the quality of the conversion. I had good conversations with Joe via email and so decided to go with him.

Cheers,
D

[Rich72C10]

Sooo, I have flipped again to getting a modern radio and not retrofitting the AC Delco. It's a Custom Audiosound Slidebar Radio. Which I am getting from TAYMAN ELECTRICAL LLC. Over the weekend I had great email correspondence with Gary Tayman. Which I had started with talking to him about the Aurora Design Products to convert my AC Delco Radio. He has been doing classic radios for like 20 years. During the emails and visiting his site, I discovered he sold the USA-740, thus I dropped my plan to retrofit to Aurora. He resales Custom Autosound and has been since their beginnings.

Then I flipped from the USA-740 to the Slider late last night. I like the aesthetics of the black knobs and black buttons (it looks more like the AC Delco). The features between Aurora Design and the Slider (or 740) are the same but I'll get a lot more room with the modern radio, which after working under the dash has become important to me (I can now upgrade the dash speaker). I also like how the Bluetooth is a module for the Slider, since that does open the door to upgrading it (if there is ever a upgrade). I have actually had this happen with a Mazda where the OEM BT Module was replaced because of complaints of its operation.

Lastly, this morning to firm things up I had a 30+ minute call with Gary, mostly about me flipping from the 740 to the Slidebar Radio and the Kick Panels they sale for our 67-72 C10s.

Below is some interesting quotes from Gary's emails to me.

Gary Tayman:

As for the conversion vs. the USA-740: the advantages of the FMR conversion are that it utilizes the original radio, so it looks and feels original. Also, the components are SAE approved, matching the same quality standard as an OEM stereo in a new car. The advantage of the USA-740 is the lower price as well as the digital display and features that are included.

Gary Tayman:

If you go back in time, Custom Autosound stereos weren’t exactly great. But some years ago they began to improve dramatically, and the USA-1, 5, and 6 were replaced with newer products such as the 230 and 630. It was at this time that they changed vendors – and someone else purchased the remaining stereos from the first vendor. This became Retrosound. Those early sets are long gone, and they offer new stereos now. I can’t really comment on their quality as I have no experience with them.

What I ended up buying:

• Slidebar Radio 1967-72 Chevy Truck $299.95
• DVC-4005-A 4x10 Speaker with Mounting Bracket. $49.95
• BLUKIT Bluetooth Adapter $109.00
• PIO-KCHT-67/2 Kick Panels with 6.5" Pioneer upgrade speakers $189.00

[Ol Blue K20]

Originally Posted by Rich72C10

Sooo, I have flipped again to getting a modern radio and not retrofitting the AC Delco. It's a Custom Audiosound Slidebar Radio. Which I am getting from TAYMAN ELECTRICAL LLC. Over the weekend I had great email correspondence with Gary Tayman. Which I had started with talking to him about the Aurora Design Products to convert my AC Delco Radio. He has been doing classic radios for like 20 years. During the emails and visiting his site, I discovered he sold the USA-740, thus I dropped my plan to retrofit to Aurora. He resales Custom Autosound and has been since their beginnings.

Then I flipped from the USA-740 to the Slider late last night. I like the aesthetics of the black knobs and black buttons (it looks more like the AC Delco). The features between Aurora Design and the Slider (or 740) are the same but I'll get a lot more room with the modern radio, which after working under the dash has become important to me (I can now upgrade the dash speaker). I also like how the Bluetooth is a module for the Slider, since that does open the door to upgrading it (if there is ever a upgrade). I have actually had this happen with a Mazda where the OEM BT Module was replaced because of complaints of its operation.

Lastly, this morning to firm things up I had a 30+ minute call with Gary, mostly about me flipping from the 740 to the Slidebar Radio and the Kick Panels they sale for our 67-72 C10s.

Below is some interesting quotes from Gary's emails to me.

Gary Tayman:

Gary Tayman:

What I ended up buying:

• Slidebar Radio 1967-72 Chevy Truck $299.95
• DVC-4005-A 4x10 Speaker with Mounting Bracket. $49.95
• BLUKIT Bluetooth Adapter $109.00
• PIO-KCHT-67/2 Kick Panels with 6.5" Pioneer upgrade speakers $189.00

Make sure you let us know how you like it...

[Rich72C10]

Yep, 100% plan to. I'll start a new tread on it I think, with some photos of the items I ordered and post install.

Without an amp I don't expect great things with the speakers / output of the head unit (must have proper expectations). But until I decide on moving the gas tank (which is a task I will not ever tackle on my own) I have limited space for such things. I am pretty sure with my buddy seats I'll not be able to even get speaker boxes under them.

So my comparison will not be with any sound system I put in during my 20s or comparing to my top end audio systems in my modern cars (I always max the radio on any new car) but comparing the sound to what I have now - a JBL boombox! I'll focus on how it looks/feels, installs, and its features (Bluetooth music, hands free, display, etc). I already know I'll have growth potential with the RCA outputs, which is a big point for me.

[Rich72C10]

Well, looks like I'll be having a little fun this weekend, the radio, dash speaker, and BT Module showed up a lot sooner than I thought it would!

[TXgearhead67]

Nice! I’m interested in how you like it as well.

[ChevyRacefan]

I like finding a pioneer super tuner II or III at a swap. and wiring the cassette head wiring into an aux input and adding a mini lug to hook an ipod to or a blue tooth doggle to wireless stream music from phone.
From what I have seen the retro radio type companies spend more making it look factory era correct, but the sound suffered, and I get that, because of limited unit sold and cost. no one will buy a 599 radio head unit. other than those that really want their music, and that is a small group in the old car/truck hobby. as we are mostly old and deaf. (lol)

[Rich72C10]

I am really picky about audio but I am also being realistic about how this radio is going to sound. There is just no room in the truck with the tank behind the seat, not to mention zero room under the dash with A/C and not ever wanting to cut the dash for a DIN mounting.

Now if it sounds worse than my JBL BT boom box on top of the dash, I suppose I'll be rather upset. But currently that is what I have or no audio at all. I did have a good phone convo (plus a half dozen emails before that) with Gary between retro fitting or CustomSound audio. He had more than a few opportunities to tell me that the radios are lacking and I'd be much happier with a retro fit of my GM AM radio (which would have put a lot more $$$ in his pocket).

As for the Pioneer super tuners (which I used to love Pioneer) that is not a bad idea but my boat has sailed! LOL

Edit: Bench Testing (good thing I did).
I have the radio and dash speaker hooked up on my bench. It appears they have one side of the Dual Voice Coil's polarity connection swapped, so it sounded like the speaker was busted. The speaker and the radio was pre-made with Bullet/Butt (radio side) and the speaker side of the wires with spade connectors. All with mating sizes/sexes so when you connect you would not get things backwards - which is a real nice touch. It was easily enough figured out and fixed.

After that debugging that and fixing it, the radio sounds pretty darn good with this dash speaker!

The Radio has a "iPod" connection, which the manual says it's for a iPod or up to a iPhone 4s. The connector is in fact for the older style but I have a converter connector for that. Which for my iPhone 12 Pro Max it works like it supposed to. But with this connection there is no hands free, as that is on the BT Module.

The BT Module is pretty stupid as BT goes now days. No track information and while I can skip tracks I don't seem to be able to pause/play from the head unit. For hands free it sounds fairly good but the real test will be when I am actually driving in the truck. Since I'll be getting a window mount (or something like that) I'll just control things from the iPhone and the iPod connection will be for when my daughter is playing the DJ (she always wants her music on when in a car). One thing that really annoys me is the BT module to head unit connector - its very sloppy and I am likely going to need to put a blob of RTV silicone on it.

Overall I am happy with the setup but as expected its not like connecting up to a top end head until and using CarPlay.

[Rich72C10]

Okay, it is installed with the dash speaker.

The dash speaker does not actually full the hole but I kind of expected this. I am sure I could come up with some kind of a screen/boarder but I did not have anything suitable. Other than that it mounted with the supplied brace and seems to be solid.

The radio was still a tight fit getting into its hole. It was only slightly easier getting in, than getting the GM Radio out. I did go with taking the glovebox out again, like I did when taking the GM Radio out. But once I got it over to the radio hole(s) it fit perfectly.

Hooking up the speaker with the bullet/butt connectors was easy and the wires off the multi-pin connector power wires came down just enough past the A/C control to work with them. I extended them using Bullet/Butt connectors to the fuse box. +12 was connected to a pig tail off the Cig Lighter (was already there from PO) and ACC+ was connected to the radio spade directly on the fuse box. I left the rear speaker wires for the kick panels right behind the ash tray.

The external BT Module wire routed down and towards the driver side where I mounted it on the left side and up on the gas pedal brace. Then the Mic wire followed the radio's power wire path (over the column like other wires) and up the driver side, up to the window. Mic clipped on the on left side of the visor.

After getting it all connected the only post install problem I had was the iPod wire. This wire connected to a multi-pin pigtail female connector on the radio head unit. It seems I did not get completely connected/secured after I taped it up. I am chalking this up as my fault and I be darned if I am going to pull the radio out for this. Saying it is difficult to get a radio out/in a AC C10 truck is an understatement. So passengers (aka daughter) will need to use the AUX to connect to the radio or use my phone to play DJ. I hope to properly test BT hands-free soon but my limited garage test last night seem like it was okay. I do like the radio but I didn't expect it to be like my Bang & Olufsen radio in my 2020 Edge either.

Though I am not sure if I should have gone with the USA-740. Without having my hands on it, I'll never really know. I miss the days when you could go into various stores and just look at a wall of a ton of radios and try them out

Now if my kick panel speakers will ever show up.... though I expect challenges to those too (or at least the driver side install with the Emergency break/high beam access).

[ChevyRacefan]

Originally Posted by Rich72C10

Okay, it is installed with the dash speaker.

The dash speaker does not actually full the hole but I kind of expected this. I am sure I could come up with some kind of a screen/boarder but I did not have anything suitable. Other than that it mounted with the supplied brace and seems to be solid.

The radio was still a tight fit getting into its hole. It was only slightly easier getting in, than getting the GM Radio out. I did go with taking the glovebox out again, like I did when taking the GM Radio out. But once I got it over to the radio hole(s) it fit perfectly.

Hooking up the speaker with the bullet/butt connectors was easy and the wires off the multi-pin connector power wires came down just enough past the A/C control to work with them. I extended them using Bullet/Butt connectors to the fuse box. +12 was connected to a pig tail off the Cig Lighter (was already there from PO) and ACC+ was connected to the radio spade directly on the fuse box. I left the rear speaker wires for the kick panels right behind the ash tray.

The external BT Module wire routed down and towards the driver side where I mounted it on the left side and up on the gas pedal brace. Then the Mic wire followed the radio's power wire path (over the column like other wires) and up the driver side, up to the window. Mic clipped on the on left side of the visor.

After getting it all connected the only post install problem I had was the iPod wire. This wire connected to a multi-pin pigtail female connector on the radio head unit. It seems I did not get completely connected/secured after I taped it up. I am chalking this up as my fault and I be darned if I am going to pull the radio out for this. Saying it is difficult to get a radio out/in a AC C10 truck is an understatement. So passengers (aka daughter) will need to use the AUX to connect to the radio or use my phone to play DJ. I hope to properly test BT hands-free soon but my limited garage test last night seem like it was okay. I do like the radio but I didn't expect it to be like my Bang & Olufsen radio in my 2020 Edge either.

Though I am not sure if I should have gone with the USA-740. Without having my hands on it, I'll never really know. I miss the days when you could go into various stores and just look at a wall of a ton of radios and try them out

Now if my kick panel speakers will ever show up.... though I expect challenges to those too (or at least the driver side install with the Emergency break/high beam access).

Looks good,
I think I would mount the tweeters with 3m emblem tape to the roof corners, That way you can use your sunvisor .
With the kick panels.
I used speakers with more depth than what they called for/designed for.
I have no issue with the high beam floor switch, but did need to heat the parking brake pedal and bend it 1" to the right. You might not need to, if you use the shallow mount 6.5" speakers in the kicks.
I used mid grade separates and the 6.5" woofer was about 1" deeper basket than the shallow type.

[Rich72C10]

that's the mic for hands free

I do have my fingers cross about the kick panels. I haven't any way to heat up and move/bend the break pedal.

[ChevyRacefan]

Originally Posted by Rich72C10

that's the mic for hands free

I do have my fingers cross about the kick panels. I haven't any way to heat up and move/bend the break pedal.

Oh, lo, The mobile phone mic. Did not even think of that.

You most likely won't need to do anything if using the shallow mount type speakers.
I bought my kick panels without speakers as I had a few sets of 6.5" here.
Shallow type 6.5" would have been much easier to install.

If it comes to having to bend the pedal a little. Any shop with a gas wrench can heat it up and tweak it for you.
Then a little paint on the pedal arm and no one is the wiser. if you do need to heat it, remove the rubber foot pad first.

[Rich72C10]

Well, I went ahead and bought the panel with the speakers. This is what they say about them - looks like they'll be here tomorrow :-)

Brand Kickpanels
PIO-KCHT-67-72
6.5" 250W Pioneer Speakers

Custom Autosound's kickpanels provide great sound and a no hassle, no modification install experience. We've designed them to custom fit perfectly with the door panels on your classic car or truck. Most of our kickpanels feature 6 1/2” coaxial (2-way) speakers. We also offer optional Pioneer or Kenwood Speaker upgrades. We build our Kickpanels with black ABS plastic and most of them are available with or without speakers.

[ChevyRacefan]

Originally Posted by Rich72C10

Well, I went ahead and bought the panel with the speakers. This is what they say about them - looks like they'll be here tomorrow :-)

Brand Kickpanels
PIO-KCHT-67-72
6.5" 250W Pioneer Speakers

Custom Autosound's kickpanels provide great sound and a no hassle, no modification install experience. We've designed them to custom fit perfectly with the door panels on your classic car or truck. Most of our kickpanels feature 6 1/2” coaxial (2-way) speakers. We also offer optional Pioneer or Kenwood Speaker upgrades. We build our Kickpanels with black ABS plastic and most of them are available with or without speakers.

Ya, same ones I used, only I used my speakers, the ones they come with are shallower so most likely no issue.
I would check to see if the speaker back is close enough to the metal of the truck, I glued (3m weatherstrip glue ) a thin rubber sheet to the speaker magnet back, so I would have no chance of a noise from the speaker vibrating against the cab wall/cowl. Squeaks and rattles drive me up a wall.

[Ol Blue K20]

Radio looks good...

[Rich72C10]

That's a good idea ChevyRacefan and I was thinking about backing too. BTW, how did you attach the kick panel?

Seems USPS is telling me I am getting them today. I already pre-wired the speaker wires so they are ready. Once I sort out your suggesting and getting the panel to stick to the truck. Fingers crossed I have not clearance issues to tackle ;-)

Thanks Ol Blue!

[ChevyRacefan]

Originally Posted by Rich72C10

That's a good idea ChevyRacefan and I was thinking about backing too. BTW, how did you attach the kick panel?

Seems USPS is telling me I am getting them today. I already pre-wired the speaker wires so they are ready. Once I sort out your suggesting and getting the panel to stick to the truck. Fingers crossed I have not clearance issues to tackle ;-)

Thanks Ol Blue!

Self tapping screws.
I may when I blow it apart to paint the cab, install riv-nuts in the cowl to bolt the kick panels too, As I now have a riv-nut tool. but the self tappers worked just fine.

[Rich72C10]

I was thinking the same but I was perhaps thinking I was crazy doing that. I haven't used riv-nits before... sounds like more stuff to buy, perhaps LOL

edit: I just watch a YouTube on Riv-Nuts. Great, now I want one and wonder how I ever lived without it LOL

[ChevyRacefan]

Originally Posted by Rich72C10

I was thinking the same but I was perhaps thinking I was crazy doing that. I haven't used riv-nits before... sounds like more stuff to buy, perhaps LOL

edit: I just watch a YouTube on Riv-Nuts. Great, now I want one and wonder how I ever lived without it LOL

Saw a friend using it, and was like um, what is that.
(talking to the tool) Where have you been all my life...

[Rich72C10]

Well, they will not fit.

1. Driver side fresh air pull knob/bracket hits the top of the kick panel
2. Passenger side vacuum actuator also hits top of kick panel
3. Pretty sure the parking brake would not clear, even if I did not have the fresh air pull problem.

Called CustomAudio sound and they implied my truck was not stock and had been modified to have these vent things.