Repairable cab?

[Furno68C20]

Need to make a decision at this time about the cab condition. Repairable floor or not? I’ll post a few picture of the cab. It may be a little hard to see but the outer seat belt bolts are rusted thought and not secured at all.

Does a new pan come with inner rockers and seatbelt mounts?
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[flashed]

You should be able to find those cuts from another cab where your seatbelts bolt in .

[Daves70]

A complete floor will come with all the braces,the inner rockers and goes from the floor board seam to where it welds to the back of the cab.

[Redneck Rydes]

X2 on the floor pan,I have a new one I never used,but it is stuck in SC cause of Covid

[Lanman1972]

X3 for full floor pan. Lots of threads with installation help. Does the cab have any roof rust? That could be a deal breaker.

[Getter-Done]

Here is a couple of pictures of my floor-pan.

New floor-pan has inner rockers and seatbelt nut pockets.













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[Getter-Done]

Since your cab is a 67
In order to keep the braces in the rear of cab/ floor
some modification has to be done.
Check out page 2 of my build thread











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[70']

Its all repairable......just takes time and money; and a lot of both.

[Furno68C20]

Originally Posted by Lanman1972

X3 for full floor pan. Lots of threads with installation help. Does the cab have any roof rust? That could be a deal breaker.

No the roof looks ok. It’s just the floor
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[tinman_local2]

I would install a new floor pan. It's the only way to go. It's not that tough if you have the tools and shop to do it in. You'll spend less time doing the whole floor versus patching everything. I just did one in my '69. Came out very good.

[toolboxchev]

Originally Posted by 70'

Its all repairable......just takes time and money; and a lot of both.

And of course more patience than the previous 2

[Furno68C20]

I feel the best route is a new pan. What vendor did everyone use? Since I’m going with a 4 speed I heard that a high hump style doesn’t line up with the outer rocker.

Should go with the standard pan for any auto and just cut out a window?

It is a 67 so looks like I’ll have some mods in the rear thanks for the info!

Here are some better photos in the light.

Also since I’m green at this project any tools suggestions. Thanks in advance!
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[tinman_local2]

The one I used was Dynacorn brand. Low hump, but I'll be cutting it out for the high hump. I got mine from a local body shop that is a Dynacorn dealer. Best price around and he's used this floor pan before. Fitment was great, had a little tweaking to do, but not much. He gets free shipping once he has a large order ready, too. Couldn't be happier with it.

[SkidmoreGarage]

Not to belabor what you already decided, but sheet metal and bodywork is no joke (my own experience).

Make 100% sure that the rest of the cab isn't like the photos and only has surface rust. Check around the cowl, windshield behind the rubber, roof seam, the areas where you will need to spot weld the floor to, the lower a pillar behind the kick panel, and where the door mounts.

If you add up the cost of all the rusty metal, you are easily into buying a cab in my neck of the woods.

[Furno68C20]

I’ll take a closer look at those areas and post some pictures.
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