New 2 ME 14 Sierra SWB 5.3-6spd Hope I didn't blow it...

[jjzepplin]

Oh No! What year was the trans?

[1976gmc20]

Originally Posted by jjzepplin

Oh No! What year was the trans?

2016. 76K miles total, 73K when we bought it.

The first owner was a contractor with some sort of service body on it.

[jjzepplin]

So I purchased a Used set of stock 20" five spoke stock wheels with almost new Goodyear wranglers dated 2018. The ride Is much different. A ton better. I just have to swap out the pressure sensors. Unless someone has a better idea.

[jweb]

Originally Posted by jjzepplin

So I purchased a Used set of stock 20" five spoke stock wheels with almost new Goodyear wranglers dated 2018. The ride Is much different. A ton better. I just have to swap out the pressure sensors. Unless someone has a better idea.

If the new wheels have sensors in them you may be able to program them to your truck. You can get a tool like the one in this link, or some tire shops will do it for you.

https://www.amazon.com/VXDAS-EL-5044...9021731&sr=8-3

[jjzepplin]

Thanks. I am not sure if they have them or not. They are from a 2017 Chevy but you never know what happened as these are off of CL. I still have my old wheels and can remove them from those I guess. I have the means to remove tires from rims. It's just such a sweaty ordeal. The truck does not relearn the sensors?

[biketopia]

You have to put the truck into learn mode. I'd pick up that 15 dollar tool posted above and have it in the tool box, comes in handy when you rotate the tires too so the position is known.

*Below is the how to from AllData*

Tire Pressure Sensors Learn Enable Methods

Ignition ON, initiate the Tire Pressure Sensors Learn Mode using one of the following procedures:
Using a scan tool, initiate the Tire Pressure Sensors Learn Mode. A double horn chirp will sound indicating the Learn Mode has been enabled. The left front turn signal will also be illuminated.

On vehicles equipped with keyless entry, simultaneously press the keyless entry transmitters lock and unlock buttons until a double horn chirp sounds indicating the Learn Mode has been enabled. The left front turn signal will also be illuminated.

On vehicles not equipped with keyless entry, press and release the driver information center (DIC) INFO button until the TIRE LEARN message appears on the DIC display. Press and hold the SET/RESET button until a double horn chirp sounds indicating the Learn Mode has been enabled. The left front turn signal will also be illuminated.

Starting with the left front tire, active the sensor by holding the antenna of the TPM special tool aimed upward against the tire sidewall close to the wheel rim at the valve stem location. Press and release the Activate button. Ensure that the transmit indicator on the special tool indicates that the sensor activation signal is being transmitted. Wait for a horn chirp. If the horn does not chirp, repeat the sensor activation sequence with the tool. Once the horn chirp has sounded, the sensor information is learned and the turn signal in the next location to be learned will illuminate.
After the horn chirp has sounded and the right front turn signal is illuminated, repeat step 2 for the remaining 3 sensors in the following order:
Right front
Right rear
Left rear
When the left rear sensor has been learned and a double horn chirp has sounded, the learn process is complete and the RCDLR exits the learn mode.

and here is a thread from GM-Truck about the same thing. https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/top...earn-required/

I would pick up the tool, or hit up a buddy that might have a TPMS relearn tool and see if they can get what might be in the "new" wheels to train up. Otherwise you'll need to swap em or pick up 4 new ones.

[jjzepplin]

I just watched a you tube video that put the truck in learn mode and simply let the air out of the specified tire starting with the left front driver tire and the horn chirped etc. No tool needed just a re inflation of said tire. Has anyone tried that? I did just now but the fella I got the tires from said the TPMS units were needed for his new tires. I was just hoping they were in there. I suppose I could try it with my old tires that are still in my possession.

[LEEVON]

Yes, that will work it just takes forever and sometimes you have to do it that way several times. Also, your TPMS valve stems will look different than non-TPMS. I can't explain it, have to find some pics...

[jjzepplin]

Yeah I thought so too. I guess the fact that the valve caps are the same aluminum type, I thought they might still have the sensors.

[biketopia]

Originally Posted by LEEVON

Yes, that will work it just takes forever and sometimes you have to do it that way several times. Also, your TPMS valve stems will look different than non-TPMS. I can't explain it, have to find some pics...

They don't always look different, the OE's use a rubber stem on most of them now. Also believe right about 14' GM changed the procedure to needing the relearn tool, my 08 you can do with the inflation/deflation technique, but not the newer ones.

[jjzepplin]

So I swapped out the sensors. The newer wheels had the right valve stem but sensors were gone. I took the sensors out of the old wheels and drove a round a bit without relearning the. I had tried to relearn the truck to the new wheels not knowing if they had the sensors so I was skeptical of this all working out easily. To my surprise, the truck recognized the old sensors without me doing anything other than installing them. What a relief. If anyone wants to hear about the "sweaty" ordeal of doing this in your driveway, just let me know. I must say that without a tire machine and a healthy compressor and in 90 degree humid weather... I am not going to do this again. I even had a very powerful fan blowing on me. HAHA!

[jjzepplin]

So I think I want to put some headers on Blanco before I lower it. I am looking at these. Has anyone tried them on this year or similar truck? https://www.ebay.com/itm/26468395360...wAAOSw1EhZigtd I have to go after that broken bolt and I don't want to rig things so I might as well upgrade to these at the same time.

[biketopia]

I had speed engineering on my 08, and I'm getting a set for my new to me 07 classic. The fit and finish is quite nice. For the price, they are damn hard to beat. When you replace them get the MLS manifold gaskets like stock, the felpro fiber ones will leak. Dorman sells a replacement bolt kit too. I installed the headers and y pipe on my 08 while I was doing a cam swap but slid them in with the heads on, was quite easy, and the y bolted up well and I was able to hook it into my stock exhaust system very easily. Gave a nice idle rumble but nothing annoying at cruise speed. You will need a tune to turn off the engine light for deleting the cats and rear o2's. It will run just fine, just have the annoying light if you don't tune. The nice thing is these trucks respond well to a tune with no other modifications too.

[jjzepplin]

Thank you for your response! I was thinking of using Percy's Seal 4 Good gaskets as I have had great luck with them on SBC's. The bolts stay tight and have had no leaks for years. My Speed Engineering long tubes on my Blazer came with gaskets but I don't want to use them. I just Bought HP tuners kit with 4 credits to tune my Blazer and Blanco. Hopefully I will be good at it. Are you happy with your 08 DOD Delete? I was thinking of doing that before this 5.3 grenades. For now I will delete the AFM through HP tuners.

[biketopia]

I was super happy with it. I sold the truck about 2 months ago after I found a smoking deal on a super clean 07 classic 2500HD. I did the cam swap/delete myself on the 08, wasn't hard at all could easily be done in a weekend. I did a small cam, a Texas Speed low lift stage 2 truck cam. Had nice power under the curve, a small idle note that was nice, but then through the stock exhaust it was super pleasant to drive down the highway. Mahle MS16124 worked great for me on the headers, and they are only 18 bucks for the pair on Amazon, I'll be using them again. Only think about the SE headers people complain about is the clamps, I got some band clamps from Napa ahead of time but ended up using some of the supplied ones too, just changed out the bolt and they seemed to hold tight for the year I drove the truck. The biggest thing that kills the DOD lifters is poor service practices, change the oil and change the air filter. GM issued a TSB years ago stating poor air filter service was a huge contributing factor in DOD lifter failure.

[jjzepplin]

Thank you again. I just paid Blanco off and am going for some modifications. It is ready for the first oil change since I bought it. Maybe I will go after that broken bolt and then worry about an oil change as I may have to pull the heads to get it out. But then that means new cam and such. I found almost new takeoff heads on Ebay for $220...

[biketopia]

The broken bolts are easy if you have a mig welder. Pull the manifold, weld a nut to it and back it out. My 08 was pretty rusty being a PA truck so I new what I was in for and did everything at once. I cut the cats off so I didn't have to mess with trying to un bolt them from the manifolds. Also, at least bust loose any of the non broken bolts off by hand. Helps from making more work, usually even if you get a few turns and then they break, they don't do so flush and you can get a stud extractor on them or have really easy spot to weld a nut to. You wont hurt the head, done many of them this way. If you get to the point of needing to pull the heads to get the studs there should be nothing wrong with yours. Unless you have a ton of miles, in that case snag a set of ls6 spring from summit or the like to go with the cam you will put in and be good to go.

[jjzepplin]

I have a small flux core welder. I don't think that will do the job. I need to get a nice gas regulated unit. I was looking at a Lincoln mig stick tig unit. I sure would love to be able to tig weld.

On a side note. My HP Tuners kit just came in! Let the games begin!

[jjzepplin]

Well I ordered Speed Engineering Headers and Y pie as well as a 4/6 adjustable lowering kit. Also Looking for a nice welder. I found a nice HPTuners write up here by gregski so once I get around to it I will tune out the AFM and see if it shifts better and if not I will attack the trans with a shift kit and such prior to lowering.

[jjzepplin]

The headers showed up and they look to be of nice quality. Now to extract that broken bolt...

[Ziegelsteinfaust]

Originally Posted by jjzepplin

I have a small flux core welder. I don't think that will do the job. I need to get a nice gas regulated unit. I was looking at a Lincoln mig stick tig unit. I sure would love to be able to tig weld.

On a side note. My HP Tuners kit just came in! Let the games begin!

A small Flux core should have the heat to weld a nut onto the bad bolt.

If your looking for a upgrade. Hobart makes nice welders, and they are simple to use. They are my personal favorites as I own 2 of them. A handler 190 which is 220v only, and a 220 MVP which is dual voltage.

I use CO2 instead of standard mig gas or C25. It's cheaper, and I always have some due to my job. It cost 1/2 as.much, and last nearly 3 times as long. The only downside side is a bit of splatter.

[jjzepplin]

You are probably right. I guess it will not hurt to try. I think I will run a drill bit in the manifold bolt hole just to get some fresh clean metal to weld to then give it a shot. I have been successful on two other occasions with drilling a hole and then hammering a hex key in and 6 times all the bolts came out. The engine was not in the car though. I saw a fella on youtube do the same thing but pounded a six point torx type bit in that had a 1/4" driver head on it so he was able to use a ratchet on it.

[jjzepplin]

So it has been a while since I have posted as life gets in the way. Anyway, I got up the nerve to go after this broken bolt. So I drilled out a 1/4" or so and put an easy out in there. POP, the easy out broke in the hole. So I will throw those in the trash and never use one again. Why are they so brittle??? I then tried the welding a bolt to this thing 3 times. No Bueno! I spent the next 3 hours breaking drill bits and sharpening them to finally get through the easy out and bolt. Pounded a six point hex bit in there and connected my De-Walt impact to it and worked it back and forth with some WD 40 until it came out. Congratulations to me finding every single muscle in my body that I have not used in years! Now I know which muscles need attention. ALL OF THEM!

[jjzepplin]

So after getting the broken bolt out and successfully removing the rest of them, I put the Speed Engineering headers on. I was able to get the front O2 sensors to reach the headers. The header Y pipe has a fitting for a Fuel ratio sensor which is nice and I will be getting one of those before I attempt to tune it. I connected the headers to the stock muffler with that last little muffler thingy removed and not sure what to do with the valve flapper dealy. I think they put that there for the AFM to not sound so bad through the exhaust. These headers fit nice and slipped right in from the bottom. The only thing I am not a big fan of is the Clamping system allows for small leaks. I will fiddle with them occasionally to see if I can correct this. They are much louder than I expected with the big 3" Y pipe. A very noticeable acceleration improvement.

[jjzepplin]

Once I got the headers installed, I went after the lowering kit. OMG I am getting old. I probably should not have gone for the headers and the lowering kit in a 3 day run. I got through the whole thing by myself and not even a scratch to my dermis. I did go through a pair of gloves though. I had to cut off the original Bump stops off the frame for the differential. A pain in itself. I also had to cut the original brake line/anti lock brackets from near the spring perches as the new flip kit had to be there and had new ones. I was able to flip the diff without removing the Fuel tank as some videos had shown. I just loosened the spring hanger bolt all the way and dropped the spring, pushed the axle as far as it would go to the passenger side and voila! Those rivets were much harder to remove than 67-72 rivets. Had to drill them. I used a MAXTRAC kit and so far am happy with it. The alignment went smooth and it drives very straight. My stock tires run just a little and I most likely will go down a few sizes later.