I'm legit again, my "new" '68 LB

[89AKurt]

Originally Posted by '68OrangeSunshine

Sorry, Kurt. I didn't get you. Did your '69 have a Mr Goodwrench 350 or a 307?
Love the coffee table gag.
Personally, I have no experience with running a 307. I've had 350s, a 454 and I'm on my third * 292 L6.
The BBC 454 was big ugly beautiful brute with a bigdog thirst. In my '67 4x4 K/10 Suburban it was a tank. Off road, it was bruteforce vs nature. But the fuel gauge needle spun down in equal and opposite reaction to the speedo needle going up. I had the stock underbelly 20 gallon tank, and a PO's homebrew 16 Gal aux tank [made from an Army surplus gunpowder can -- w/ no gas gauge], even then I had to keep a lookout for gas stations on the way. 6 City -- 8 Highway. And only 91 octane please. Not a feasable rebuild when gas is around $2.95/Gal for Regular. Also Fred Flintstone had better brakes.
Not sure what displacement V8 was in my '71 Jimmy when I bought it. Local Unocal mechanics said it was a strong motor when checking it out for me
before I bought it. PO said it was a 327. He lied. Might have been a 307 or a 350. It flunked Pima County emissions. I played around with the carbs. It came with a non-original QJet. Traded that in at Checker Auto -- not knowing any better -- got a dog of Reman QJet back. Then I tried a Holley 780 CFM doublepumper, a friend gave me free. I was using some 105 Octane, when it sucked valves. Valves on Cyl's 6 and 7 got loose enough to crush the ceramic middles of both spark plugs. [Some bad JuJu that's over my head there.]
Anyway I bought a fresh Crate 350, Weiand intake, Carter Performance 9625S AFB, and Heddman headers. Winning combo. Later, a GM HEI.
If you had an L6 [I-6s are in Fords and Toyotas] I'd be emotionally involved, as my C/10 came with a 292 and I've rebuilt 2 of them. If you had a 250, I'd talk you into a 292. It's got a lot of torque, doesn't rev very high, but mule-like endurance and longevity. I got 250,000 out of a 1977 build.
[* Original Engine -- rebuilt after 25 years in boxes]

Flame war topics are:
V8 vs L6
Headers vs Rams Horn
QJets vs Holleys vs Edlebrocks [Carter dropped out of the Carb game]
Wix vs AC Delco

The '69 had a 350 Mr. Goodwrench. The '48 I had last century, had a 235, not the original 216, was good enough for up to 50 MPH. I have to look now, to see what carb and distributor I got. Yea brakes have something to be desired, used to tripling stopping distance.

Good to know what subjects to avoid.

['68OrangeSunshine]

Yeah, I hate it when some ''kid'' cuts in front of me -- seeing 5 car lengths -- and zips in, sensing his opportunity. He doesn't know he's now in my stopping zone, and if I crush his Prius, it was his fault.
[OK, just road rage fantasy here. I know I'm legally at fault if I hit someone from behind.]

Still thinking about a crate motor? You might price all the PHX dealerships.

[89AKurt]

Originally Posted by '68OrangeSunshine

Yeah, I hate it when some ''kid'' cuts in front of me -- seeing 5 car lengths -- and zips in, sensing his opportunity. He doesn't know he's now in my stopping zone, and if I crush his Prius, it was his fault.
[OK, just road rage fantasy here. I know I'm legally at fault if I hit someone from behind.]

Still thinking about a crate motor? You might price all the PHX dealerships.

I'm in no position to replace the engine, but should get somewhat educated before "something" happens. This is what I got. Since you live in Tucson, you ever have vapor lock when it's really hot? When I shut down, and started several minutes later, it started without trouble, but when I accelerated it stumbled bad, but cleared up. Is the gas line too close to the engine?


Today I wanted some pictures of the wildfire smoke that blew south. Took a shortcut that shook the hell out Blue Cloud. Makes me want to Trophy Truck the suspension.

['68OrangeSunshine]

Never on the 292, but the 350 in the GMC Jimmy has vapor locked, I thought. I put a high temp heat rap around the fuel line -- packrats ate it off.
Turned it wasn't vapor lock but a bad HEI coil. Replaced it and flushed the radiator with new coolant. Runs fine and cool.

[89AKurt]

Yea, bloody packrats!
Nothing else to report, other than it would be nice to get a positrac rear end.

['68OrangeSunshine]

On the '68 C/10 Stepside, I swapped in a 3.73 12 Bolt Corp rear with Eaton posi when my first diff burned up. That was Mid '80s. Got it off a '69 GMC in a junkyard in Tucson and had Simmons Enterprises set it up for me. Had to buy one new axle shaft from the Chevy dealer. Still running good.

The differential and axle bearings burned up my '67 K/10 Suburban. [3.73 12 Bolt, of course]This time [Mid '90s] GM was on strike, so I couldn't find new axles. Calling around, Moser Custom Axles made me the best deal. New 6 lug ''stock-like'' custom axles for a good price. Actually the hub flange was an inch and a half lesser in diameter than stock. Moser told me they'd warranty them for life. OK Sold. Also put in an Auburn posi. Tucson Differential did the set-up. Then a carb fire grounded the Sub, and she sat.

In 2010, I had to pull some old IH Scout hulks [an ex-friend had left on my property for 8 years] out of their ruts with my '71 GMC also 3.73 12 Bolt with factory Eaton Posi. About a couple weeks later, the rear end on the Jimmy lunched at a CircleK, a half mile from my house.
I pulled the rear prop shaft and limped home in front wheel drive. Then Dennis, my Buddy, and I cannibalized the Suburban's Auburn posi rear and put it on the Jimmy. Still working great.

I do need to get the GMC's OEM Eaton rearend rebuilt some day, but 25 - 30 years ago I dropped a grand doing that. So I know I can't afford it right now, since there's precious little work.
Positraction is neater than sliced bread, though. Only thing I miss is deliberately fishtailing on dirt roads. That was fun, but Posi won't let you do it.

[89AKurt]

Originally Posted by '68OrangeSunshine

On the '68 C/10 Stepside, I swapped in a 3.73 12 Bolt Corp rear with Eaton posi when my first diff burned up. That was Mid '80s. Got it off a '69 GMC in a junkyard in Tucson and had Simmons Enterprises set it up for me. Had to buy one new axle shaft from the Chevy dealer. Still running good.

The differential and axle bearings burned up my '67 K/10 Suburban. [3.73 12 Bolt, of course]This time [Mid '90s] GM was on strike, so I couldn't find new axles. Calling around, Moser Custom Axles made me the best deal. New 6 lug ''stock-like'' custom axles for a good price. Actually the hub flange was an inch and a half lesser in diameter than stock. Moser told me they'd warranty them for life. OK Sold. Also put in an Auburn posi. Tucson Differential did the set-up. Then a carb fire grounded the Sub, and she sat.

In 2010, I had to pull some old IH Scout hulks [an ex-friend had left on my property for 8 years] out of their ruts with my '71 GMC also 3.73 12 Bolt with factory Eaton Posi. About a couple weeks later, the rear end on the Jimmy lunched at a CircleK, a half mile from my house.
I pulled the rear prop shaft and limped home in front wheel drive. Then Dennis, my Buddy, and I cannibalized the Suburban's Auburn posi rear and put it on the Jimmy. Still working great.

I do need to get the GMC's OEM Eaton rearend rebuilt some day, but 25 - 30 years ago I dropped a grand doing that. So I know I can't afford it right now, since there's precious little work.
Positraction is neater than sliced bread, though. Only thing I miss is deliberately fishtailing on dirt roads. That was fun, but Posi won't let you do it.

Thanks for the input! I'm not going to fishtail (or do the Ken Block gymkhana) with this truck! LOL

Didn't work on Blue Cloud, instead I pulled this 1970 Raleigh Chopper from the shop rafters, which has been there for about 35 years. Cleaned and lubed it, and hacked a chainguard from a range front. Prescott Antique Auto Club show coming soon, first week of August. Wanted to accessorize. LOL





I took more pictures than this.

['68OrangeSunshine]

Cool bike. I have a Raleigh Royale in the same color. Royale was a 5-speed with rams horn handlebars. I bought it in the PX at MCAS Iwakuni, Japan. We could take our bikes with us [on flatbed semitrailers] when we deployed to other bases in the West Pac. Kadena Okinawa, and Cubi Point, Phllipine Islands. At a bike shop in Iwakuni I had it modified with a SunTour rear gear set and new double sprocket front crank = 10 speed, and 27'' wheels. Needs work and a new saddle. It had a Brooks leather saddle. The kind that gives you a free proctology exam with every long ride. Packrats ate the leather.
Who's Ken Block?

[KevinK7]

That is a very 'Kool' bike Kurt ...those things bring crazy money these days...

[89AKurt]

Originally Posted by '68OrangeSunshine

Cool bike. I have a Raleigh Royale in the same color. Royale was a 5-speed with rams horn handlebars. I bought it in the PX at MCAS Iwakuni, Japan. We could take our bikes with us [on flatbed semitrailers] when we deployed to other bases in the West Pac. Kadena Okinawa, and Cubi Point, Phllipine Islands. At a bike shop in Iwakuni I had it modified with a SunTour rear gear set and new double sprocket front crank = 10 speed, and 27'' wheels. Needs work and a new saddle. It had a Brooks leather saddle. The kind that gives you a free proctology exam with every long ride. Packrats ate the leather.
Who's Ken Block?

I'm familiar with those saddles, avoided them.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LuDN2bCIyus

[89AKurt]

Originally Posted by KevinK7

That is a very 'Kool' bike Kurt ...those things bring crazy money these days...

That's what I found out! Much like anything old, and if it was desirable at the time. Just like our trucks. All the Hot Wheels, and Corgi toys I wasted too......

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by 89AKurt

I'm familiar with those saddles, avoided them.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LuDN2bCIyus

OK, Now I know who Ken Block is. Wow, that's some stunt. Not sure if his Ford Focus is the front wheel drive or all wheel drive. Drifting with FWD is easier, but in some slow-mo shots, it looks like the rear wheels are smoking too. If not driven, friction would have slowed them down. I guess the hockey stick control modulates power to the rear differential. I thought it was a bootlegger brake, but there's more going on there.
Imagine all the P.O.-ed S.F. commuters!
I learned to drive in the Hollywood Hills. Some of those moves would've been handy there.

[89AKurt]

Originally Posted by '68OrangeSunshine

OK, Now I know who Ken Block is. Wow, that's some stunt. Not sure if his Ford Focus is the front wheel drive or all wheel drive. Drifting with FWD is easier, but in some slow-mo shots, it looks like the rear wheels are smoking too. If not driven, friction would have slowed them down. I guess the hockey stick control modulates power to the rear differential. I thought it was a bootlegger brake, but there's more going on there.
Imagine all the P.O.-ed S.F. commuters!
I learned to drive in the Hollywood Hills. Some of those moves would've been handy there.

His Focus is purpose built with AWD. His Mustang "Hoonicorn" is too. I'm jealous of his life, doing what he loves, lives in Park City, Utah. But he should get braces, gap in his teeth kinda bothers me.

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by 89AKurt

His Focus is purpose built with AWD. His Mustang "Hoonicorn" is too. I'm jealous of his life, doing what he loves, lives in Park City, Utah. But he should get braces, gap in his teeth kinda bothers me.

I'd wear Keds, just to stick it to the Man...

I learned a new word, too: HOON. Must be a contraction of Hazardous asshOle and goON.

[89AKurt]

Someone in the local car club has a "327 C.I. Racing engine short block. Dome pistons, large intake valves, Edmunds high rise intake manifold, bored out 20 thousandths, machine shop done. $875" Someone told me (long time ago) that size engine has the same reciprocating mass as a 350, why not just get that instead. But I just looked at prices for crate engines, now way.

['68OrangeSunshine]

327s were highly regarded by hotrodders, even over the 350. Something about a longer stoke -- they could rev higher. The 350 was designed to be a public-proof truck engine. An expert with more V8 experience can explain it better.

[89AKurt]

I've been seeing a wide range of opinions about keeping the 307, if modifications are worth it (generally not worth it). Long as it purrs like it is, not touching it.

I'm planning to go camping, in the Monument Valley area, depending on how it's going other places nearby too. Was thinking that deflating the tires on dirt/sandy roads would help, so got a compressor. Tested it out, found the power cord needs to be about 6 feet longer.

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by 89AKurt

I've been seeing a wide range of opinions about keeping the 307, if modifications are worth it (generally not worth it). Long as it purrs like it is, not touching it.

I'm planning to go camping, in the Monument Valley area, depending on how it's going other places nearby too. Was thinking that deflating the tires on dirt/sandy roads would help, so got a compressor. Tested it out, found the power cord needs to be about 6 feet longer.

You can rig a longer DC extension if you can solder. Just get a couple of cigar lighter plugs, one male, one female and two runs of 12 gauge line in different colors. You can either use the cigarette lighter as a power source with a female cigar plug at the other end. Or a couple of larger alligator clips and a female at the end.
I have both. A pair of gator clips on a 5' run and a female at the end. This allows for connecting the solar panel for charging while the battery negative terminal is off. It can also add length to an extension [about 8'] with the matched plug ends.
Since you have a Longbed, you will need a longer run. Measure from the dash plug, around the seat, out the door or window and out to your farthest tire, and add a couple more feet for comfort. Tie some old shoelaces to one end of each cord, and coil them and tie them when not in use. Tuck the coiled line in a big [gallon] baggie.Keep that with your tools, or in the glovebox, or under the seat. Always put it back in the same place.
Truck stops should have the hardware since Radio Shack is gone. Look in the CB section.
BTW, What size tires are you running?

And if you're confident in your present engine, keep it.

[89AKurt]

Originally Posted by '68OrangeSunshine

You can rig a longer DC extension if you can solder. [...]
BTW, What size tires are you running?

And if you're confident in your present engine, keep it.

Didn't see your reply before doing it. Used the stained glass soldering iron to splice in scavenged power cord, now it's long enough. The cig lighter is not hooked up, too lazy to fix that. Better to go off the battery anyway, correct?

30 x 9.50 R15, why?

Wouldn't start the other day. Neighbor who is a retired ADOT mechanic diagnosed the HEI ignition module was dead. Replaced, still didn't fire up. Decided to just replace the whole distributor, plugs and wires. There was corrosion in the terminals, and rotor brass things were sort of fried looking. Despite being mechanically challenged, did 95% of it. My friend dialed it in and timed it. Had a heck of a time getting the different length wires sorted out, ended up with one too short, Auto Zone traded for a longer one.




Neighbor looked at the old spark plugs, said it's not burning oil. Since I can't really afford putting a modern engine in, will play this game long as possible.

['68OrangeSunshine]

I was an avionics tech in the military, so I don't mind crimping and soldering wires. I buy the ''Universal'' plug wire sets, and cut the plug wires to length.
Also my Stepside uses an L6. I buy the V8 sets, and after every 3 wire changes, I have enough leftovers for a free fourth set. L6 runs are pretty short.
The vendors all sell a stock type cigarette lighter and socket assembly. About $15 or $20.
Easy install and damn handy. I don't smoke, but GPS, cellphone chargers and [in the winter with no heater in the GMC,] I have a Hot Seat. Plug-in vibrating back massager/heating pad.
Voltage spikes from an External Voltage Regulator can flash burn an HEI Module. I moved up to an Internally regulated alternator on the 350 in my GMC Jimmy. Bought a brand new one, stock for a slightly later vintage Blazer. Working great.
What viscosity oil are you running? I start with 30 weight with a newly rebuilt engine, then work up to SAE 40 at about 150,000, and finally 50 weight, before I pull it out and rebuild.
I'll have to back track on the tire size question. Can't remember what that was about.

[89AKurt]

Thanks for checking on me, again.
I had a new "one wire" alternator installed, so the voltage regulator bundle of snakes has been removed.
I am not having working front turn signals, the back ones work, and the dash turn signal lights aren't flashing. They did work. So where do I start to diagnose the problem? I looked at the switch at the steering wheel, cleaned up and added lithium grease so it moves better.
I am now looking for a color wiring diagram. I found a free one when I had the '69, that went with the truck when I sold it.
Thread for reference: http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...ram+color+1968
Source to buy a diagram, which should be better clarity than downloading and printing one: https://classiccarwiring.com/product...wiring-diagram
Another thread, but must have to be signed up to see their diagram: http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...ram+color+1968
This ought to be a good source, but I don't see headlights/turn signals?: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=185856
Another thread: http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...ram+color+1968
Here is the front of the diagram! This also is about the temperature gauge acting weird which is happening now for me. http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...ram+color+1968

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by 89AKurt

Thanks for checking on me, again.
I had a new "one wire" alternator installed, so the voltage regulator bundle of snakes has been removed.
I am not having working front turn signals, the back ones work, and the dash turn signal lights aren't flashing. They did work. So where do I start to diagnose the problem? I looked at the switch at the steering wheel, cleaned up and added lithium grease so it moves better.
I am now looking for a color wiring diagram. I found a free one when I had the '69, that went with the truck when I sold it.
Thread for reference: http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...ram+color+1968
Source to buy a diagram, which should be better clarity than downloading and printing one: https://classiccarwiring.com/product...wiring-diagram
Another thread, but must have to be signed up to see their diagram: http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...ram+color+1968
This ought to be a good source, but I don't see headlights/turn signals?: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=185856
Another thread: http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...ram+color+1968
Here is the front of the diagram! This also is about the temperature gauge acting weird which is happening now for me. http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...ram+color+1968

The Color Schematic is pinned on the Electrical Page of this forum, iirc.

New Turn Signal Switches run about $50 from the vendors. I've found swapping in a fresh one solves a lot of gripes. Gremlins can chew on a lot of little details in 53 years.
I gave up on electrical temp gauges. The new ones have a different Resistance value. A mechanic said some mumbojumbo about using a couple [1/4W?] resistors in parallel, but, as an electrician, I knew that one would be marginally longer than the other, and create a bias. Putting a Mechanical Temperature gauge in its place is not difficult. Advantages are:
1] Better, more accurate temp indication
2] Works even when power is off.
3] Packrats can't chew thru the wires.
4] Lasts a long time.
5] Looks cool.

Gauges shown are -- Auto Gage Tach on Steering Column. Stewart-Warner Water Temp, Moon Manifold Vacuum, AutoMeter Oil Ppessure.

[lil hoodlum]

Originally Posted by '68OrangeSunshine

The Color Schematic is pinned on the Electrical Page of this forum, iirc.

New Turn Signal Switches run about $50 from the vendors. I've found swapping in a fresh one solves a lot of gripes. Gremlins can chew on a lot of little details in 53 years.
I gave up on electrical temp gauges. The new ones have a different Resistance value. A mechanic said some mumbojumbo about using a couple [1/4W?] resistors in parallel, but, as an electrician, I knew that one would be marginally longer than the other, and create a bias. Putting a Mechanical Temperature gauge in its place is not difficult. Advantages are:
1] Better, more accurate temp indication
2] Works even when power is off.
3] Packrats can't chew thru the wires.
4] Lasts a long time.
5] Looks cool.

Gauges shown are -- Auto Gage Tach on Steering Column. Stewart-Warner Water Temp, Moon Manifold Vacuum, AutoMeter Oil Ppessure.

Yup! I agree. I also run a mechanical temperature gauge as. Works fine for me to monitor the temperature.

[72c20customcamper]

I put mechanical gages in my 72 one for water temp the trans temp and volt meter . Trans temp because I tow with it pic is before I hooked up the volt meter. This was towing my 68 to the Carlisle truck show .

[89AKurt]

Okay, will take the mechanical temp gauge advice. Thank you! It should fit where the radio hole is?

I was planning to get a whole horn assembly, might as well get the turn signal switch too. I replaced the switch in the '69 that I had before, so know I can. Need to get a wiper switch too.

Meanwhile, the rocker had some gnarly rusty steel sticking out, ready to get me, so I cleaned that up. Ended up doing an archeological dig. Holy cow there was some dirt, and a Mud Dauber and regular wasp nests. I'm amazed the cab hasn't collapsed.


I *had to* do something fun, that didn't require wires. My dad had this altimeter mounted in the car I grew up with. Whipped this out Sunday afternoon. It's not straight, assumed the knob was at 45°, so just like everything else, it's half-a$$ed.


Another thing got fixed, didn't take a picture. The glovebox was getting flooded. Told a guy at a cruise night, who restores these trucks (name is Dave, he is on this forum on occasion). He asked if I got a new windshield, yes I did! He suggested putting silicon caulking in, so I did.