Skidmore '67 C20

[SkidmoreGarage]

Not a lot has been going on with the truck with the arrival of a baby girl!

Not much time to work on the truck but I had a chance to finish up the passenger outer rocker, toe kick, and footwell/firewall area before she was born.

I'll just do a photo dump, the usual metalwork-grind-body filler- sand-seam sealer- prime-sand- repeat, and finally paint. The interesting things to see are that I shaved the lower rocker seam to keep it smooth from the bottom of the bed to the front fender and the removal of the seam at the back of the door. I think these small mods add to the original design, and most people wouldn't notice them.

Feel free to leave any questions. Here are the products I used:

Evercoat long and short strand body filler
3M body filler (may try lightweight next time)
SEM two part seam sealers (buy the special two-part gun on Amazon, it's worth it)
PPG Delfleet epoxy primer
U-pol high build primer (wouldn't buy again)
Epoxy primer again
PPG Delfleet ESSS single stage color matched to light green.
PPG ALK200 gloss black for the firewall/cowl, I bought full gloss by accident for the chassis, but I kind of like it. It is easy to clean up, and it gives some depth while being much darker than a satin- which can be a bit "gray".

[SkidmoreGarage]

Had to build up the edge a little at the front, and finish up the cab corner. I didn't have the space to remove the bed, so I lifted it up enough to get the job done.

[SkidmoreGarage]

Body work (for days).

[SkidmoreGarage]

Priming and painting. I skipped over more rust repair in the cab, and lots of surface prep.

[SkidmoreGarage]

Those photos are straight out of the gun, and I think it looks really good in person. It has some junk in the paint, but generally it was easy to get an even coating and very drip resistant. The color match is also very nice.

I did have some of the chassis paint lift off with the tape where I had just scuffed it. It separated at the boundary of the last re-spray, so it wasn't the stuff that I used. It was just bad prep by the previous "painter".

[SkidmoreGarage]

I really want to drive this thing, so I jumped on the next hurdle. I need to repair the small amount of rust in the windshield frame. It is concentrated on the lower corners. I had to cut out a small section and replace the metal. I also took the opportunity to patch the antenna hole. It's 2021 and I don't want any part of what the radio is selling these days, so I won't need an antenna.

[Kronald_70GMC]

Looking very nice. Good work

[SkidmoreGarage]

Sorry for the oversized photos, I tried something new. I don't want to insult this forum as I am so thankful for it, but the forum software is so antiquated that it really makes it a struggle to post photos/media. It should just rescale the images to the native web page resolution and allow for users to click the images for full scale images.

I also installed the high hump tunnel for the final time, using 3M strip caulk. I used a double-thick layer and pressed it into place. I hope that is the right way to do it, but it seems to have worked.

[Low Elco]

Really enjoying your thread. Nice job on the bodywork!

[SkidmoreGarage]

I took a pause on the window frame and moved to addressing some major leaks.

I found that fluid was pouring from the oil pan when the truck was running and a slow drip when parked. I ordered a one piece felpro gasket and went about installing it with the engine installed in the truck.

I lifted the engine, requiring the removal of the driver's side exhaust, motor mounts, and fan shroud.

It was a real pain but it's back in. Hopefully it doesn't leak. I also painted it and discovered that it has badger pistons .030 oversized. So it has been rebuilt once!

I'll do the trans seals next... All of those are leaking too.

[landarts]

Great job on the truck! I like the approach and how it is turning out. Where did you get the seat cover for the 67-68 bench seat? Really like the looks of it and have 68 truck that could use a good looking seat cover like yours. Again great job!

[SkidmoreGarage]

Thanks for the support!

The bench seat cover I bought locally off craigslist from the original owner. I might be able to find out who made it, but I wouldn't recommend it. It wasn't really meant for a 67 frame/foam and I had to do a lot of foam work.

[May70]

Cab turned out good.

What filler are you using? How does it sand?

[landarts]

Originally Posted by SkidmoreGarage

Thanks for the support!

The bench seat cover I bought locally off craigslist from the original owner. I might be able to find out who made it, but I wouldn't recommend it. It wasn't really meant for a 67 frame/foam and I had to do a lot of foam work.

Ok great thanks for the information. There is a difference on how they fit. The 67-68 cover's fit different than the 69-72. Again thanks for the info!

[SkidmoreGarage]

Thanks! I am not a professional, but I am happy to share my experience.

I used three different body fillers, depending on what was needed. The long and short strand body fillers, for use over metal repair (MIG) and small gaps, was made by Evercoat. It was really nice to work with, as nice as reinforced body filler can be. For the regular filler I used 3m Bondo 261. It was what I had on hand. I have a lot more left, so I'll probably keep using it, but it isn't anything special. It clogs paper pretty fast (use an old wire brush to knock it off in a few seconds) and is easy to scratch, but isn't too hard to sand. I want to switch to the evercoat stuff. I use 3m glazing putty for the spot cleanup.

The biggest boost for me was I bought a new 6" D/A and it is a revelation for feathering edges and general leveling. Plenty of power and I just keep rotating through the sandpaper to keep it removing material. I think the other thing that helps is to start sanding at the right time for what stage you are in the sanding process. If you are leveling across a panel, sand when the filler is still a little soft. If you are doing detail work, don't be afraid to let it set up overnight. Also, when in doubt apply another layer of filler and take it all off again!

[SkidmoreGarage]

I installed new motor mounts "while I was already there", and they looked a little tired. It turned into a bit of a job, but it was worth it as the mounts were disintegrated.


Access to the bolts is pretty poor and I managed to lightly cross thread two bolts, which required running a tap through the threads. I should have cleaned them up before I tried to bolt them up the first time, but I was optimistic and rushing. It's always the little jobs that slow you down.

I also started addressing the TH400 leaks. Unfortunately, after dissembly I discovered that I didn't have the correct o ring for the speedo housing. It is surprising how difficult it is to get the right seals from the local parts shop. I'll need to go to the transmission shop and see if they can help. I also discovered that there was no shift selector seal in the trans... So someone did some "work" in the past.

[SkidmoreGarage]

Here are a couple additional photos of how I transitioned the rockers and maintained the drain holes.



Don't judge the appearance too harshly, I haven't done anything about the orange peel and no one will ever see this part! The important thing is that it is waterproof, structurally sound, and straight.

[SkidmoreGarage]

Ok, so I also had the saga of the TH400 last week. It had been leaking like a stuck pig ever since I got the truck. I didn't even know how much it was leaking until I pulled it into the garage and it was filling the drip tray in a few days.

I spent a few days trying to round up all of the seals at the local autoparts place, using online as a guide. This was a complete waste of time. '67 was a mid cycle year and there are multiple different options for every seal. Even the trans filter is different. I ended up at the local transmission repair place. They had everything I needed and even something I didn't, which was a Transgo performance 1,2 shift kit. I figured why not, since I was in there!

In total, I did the trans shift kit, tail shaft seal, shift selector, speedo housing and shaft, pan seal, and of course the filter. I also cleaned everything up and painted the pan and converter cover. It was a lot of work upside down, but the results speak for themselves. It is bone dry under the truck after sitting full for a week!

[SkidmoreGarage]

I then started the misadventure of pulling the truck out of the garage for the first time in months.

I filled the fluids (as best I could, the garage is not level) and installed the battery. Checked everything over and put down a moving blanket to sit on, and turned the key. Started right up! I then rolled it down the driveway to find that my driveway is too steep for the exhaust, scrape. The trans was also able to go into gear but obviously was low on fluid. I added what I had and drove it around the block. It is missing a fender and door, and the alignment is atrocious, but it was a great first drive. Truck is transformed.

Then the misadventure continued... I tried to back the truck into the driveway and the fluid was so low that I lost all gears. I added the last quart that I had and it was just enough, but halfway up the driveway I lost reverse. I hope I didn't smoke the friction bands too much. I ended up turning it around and pulling it into the garage forward. It drove fine up the driveway (scrape again), and it had strong reverse engagement once it was back on more level ground. Hopefully all is well.

I really need to get this thing driving before the fall. I'm hoping with a solid push I can get the roof and windshield done in the next two weeks.

[SkidmoreGarage]

So back in the garage and I'm trying to get the cab sealed up before the summer is gone. So sand, prime, seam seal, and paint are the mantra.

I removed all of the seam sealer on the drip rail, wire wheeled the surface rust, treated it with Ospho, and D/A-ed the roof. It is almost ready for primer, but I need to paint the whole roof so I pulled the back window. It wasn't too bad, but used Windex to lube up the channel and vinyl pry bars. Popped right out. The gasket was pretty new, so I'll re-use it.

I also have hand sanded the cowl, windshield frame, and upper dash in preparation for primer. I still have a bit more to do. I plan to paint the cowl black, the frame green, and the roof Ditzler 8290.

In true project car fashion, I realized it made sense to close up the filler at the same time, so I patched that up today. I broke out the Tig welder, hoping I'd be able to do a bit more metal work and avoid sculpting with filler. The mig welds are so hard they crack if you try to hammer and dolly them.

That's it for now, with any luck we will be in primer early next week.

[TA_C10]

Looking real good man, progress

[SkidmoreGarage]

Thanks!

I've been working on getting a batch of stuff ready to paint. I'm hoping to prime this afternoon. I decided to do a small rust patch in the front fender cup. I may just do the door as well, just to be done with the passenger side. I've been crunched for time this week and the heat is coming, so I'm trying to hustle.

The filler patch ended up working pretty well. I had to do some persuading to get the metal to curve.

[SkidmoreGarage]

I was able to get some time in the garage to make progress. I didn't get many photos as I was trying to be productive, and it's 102*!

I patched the passenger fender cup and door, (very small patches) and did the bodywork quickly. It turned out pretty well. The fuel filler patch also looked good once it was primed.

I also applied the first pass of seam sealer to the drip rail, cowl, windshield, and the back of the cab. The back of the cab seam turned out well, but the drip rail will need more self leveler to finish.

[SkidmoreGarage]

Few more pictures for those who are following along. I'll need to do some sanding, but first I need to pick up some high build primer and 526 white.

I plan to paint the cowl and dash gloss black (I have a new tmi dashpad that will cover it). The windshield frame light green and the roof later year true white (526). I went back and forth on picking white over the original ivory, but after sanding back to the original color it was very antique white, doesnt match the build direction. It was already repainted to the later year white, so it will look the same as it was.

[72 tigger]

Looks really good! You’ll have a sweet truck when you’re done!