1972 C30 Dump truck

[Seanext]

Been looking for a while for a C30 Dump truck. I found one and got it home today. I have the original title from 1972 with the envelope post marked June 1972. It has all the normal rust, engine is locked up, drive shaft is bent from the PTO shaft coming loose and hitting the drive shaft, the rear end has bend changed to one from a 74. Other than that it is all good. LOL Looking forward to getting it running and driving. I have several 70/71 4X4's but my first C30 should be fun. Any input on what to look out for would be great.

[Getter-Done]

Nice project truck.

I would start by check the rear of the frame for cracks ,
Since it has been a dump bed.

[MARKDTN]

Interesting! Radio delete and they used plate that for a PTO lever location?

[Mike80D]

I’d look out for stuck engines, and bent driveshafts! Haha, jk. Looks like a fun project. I have absolutely no use for a ton truck, but would still like to own one!

[Seanext]

I first thought the radio delete was the PTO also, but turns out it looks like a lawn mower throttle but he used it as a throttle. It is rigged to the gas pedal. He said that is what happened to the PTO pump. He reach over to do something and got something caught on the lever and the engine revved wide open. He said when that happened the PTO shaft broke and whipped the driveshaft into what looks like can that has been stepped on. Being on the farm they do what ever it took to get things going. I spend some time today and vacuumed out the inside and washed the outside. I got a trash can full of cigarette packs, snack bags and news paper out of the inside. I kept hearing what sounded like marbles going through the vacuum turned out to be acorns and fence staples. It had to be a whole box of staples, and herd of squirrels that placed them inside. I am sure the squirrels got in through the basketball size hole in the floor.
Now to get the engine unstuck. Any tricks?

[burnin oil]

Time honored method is pull the plugs and fill the cylinders with Murphys marvel mystery oil and let it soak for a long while. Try manual baring the motor over by hand with the plugs out. Refill the cylinders as needed and repeat. There are no guarantees.

As for the throttle on the PTO, it's pretty common and there was even a factory option for it. It's usually used for applications like winches.

[Seanext]

There is a big winch on the back not sure the maker but they put a hydraulic motor on it. I will get a pic tomorrow and see if anyone can identify it.
Did all C30 have cab lights?

[Seanext]

Ordered a borescope and it should be here tomorrow so I can see how bad the cylinders are.

[burnin oil]

Generally all dual rears will have cab lights and were available on SRW at some point. I'm not sure when law started the requirement but my 51 Mack's literature called them Michigan lights and they were optional at that time.

[burnin oil]

Originally Posted by Seanext

Ordered a borescope and it should be here tomorrow so I can see how bad the cylinders are.

Oil them up and see what happens. It may free up and allow the truck to .ove under its own power until you get ready to yank the motor. Vehicles that don't move suck!! Be prepared for it to smoke like crazy at first but it should clean up after that oil burns off. Alot of rust can come off the cylinder walls and still have a running engine. It may be that the rings are stuck to the block. Pretty common on vehicles that sat for long periods of time.

[va72longhorn]

Is that a folded down tailgate on the back or is the bed that long? Looks like a lot of overhang, in the pic, for a dump bed.

[Seanext]

At some point they added about six foot to the bed to be able to haul a combine on the back. He said it was pretty scary above about 35 mph. I am not sure but that was probably way above the weight limit. I am going to cut the extension off this weekend and get it back to the correct length. After I look inside the cylinders today I will fill with oil and see if I can break it loose and get it running this weekend. May be optimistic but will give it the old college try.

[Seanext]

Here it is after about 30 min with the pressure washer. The old girl cleaned up better than I thought it would. There is a better pic of the bed extension and winch.

[Seanext]

When I asked the owner about the winch he said it was off an old logging truck. It was meant to have a hand crank on it but he put the hydraulic motor on it. He said he never loaded anything that the winch wouldn't pull it up on the bed.

[LT7A]

It's all headed in the right direction! Always cool to save something like that and move it toward usability. I would use up a can of penetrating oil in those cylinders first. Let it do what it's designed to do. And then a 50/50 mix of motor oil and transmission fluid is what I've had recommended to me and used in the past. The cleaning agents in the transmission fluid go to work for you, and the oil is obviously there to lubricate. Good luck!

[burnin oil]

Everyone has there concoction to free cylinders on a stuck engine. The biggest thing is get something thin enough to work it's way into the rings but sticky or thick enough to not just slide down into the oil pan. A high detergent ATF would probably work well since you can never get it off your hands.

The truck looks awesome after the bath and that winch is a beast. You could probably beaver tail that extension with 2 hydraulic cylinders Teed off the winch and be able to load a tractor on there. Just a thought.

We have been getting rain the last 2 days so I just got done scrubbing the jeep down (first time in 3 years that we owned it) and about 1/2 of my 57 dump bed. I have been playing with that one for the 2 weeks on and off getting her back on the road. If the weather lifts I need to get gravel for the driveway so we will see if she can earn her keep. Fingers crossed since it has a spreader gate.

[Palf70Step]

Looking forward to seeing yoru progress on this ole beauty.

[Seanext]

Ok spent some time this afternoon working on the truck. I pulled all the plugs and looked in each cylinder. I got the borescope and there is no rust in any of the cylinders. I know there could be some on the rings causing the problem but good news that there is not major rust. I fill each cylinder with PB blaster and will let it set till tomorrow. I made up a funnel with a 1/4 copper pipe on the end to stick in each cylinder and fill with trans fluid and diesel fuel, or MM oil and diesel fuel tomorrow. I rocked the truck back and forth and there is no movement of the crank pulley. I put a 3 foot breaker bar on the crank bolt and no movement. I was very careful not to put to much torque on the bolt. Last thing I want to do is snap it off or strip the treads. I put it in neuteral and rolled it off the trailer so I know that the transmission is not locked up. There is PTO on the transmission. Are these live PTO's meaning that when engaged they will work whether the clutch is in or out? IF that is the case there could be a problem there.

[palallin]

If you haven't already, remove the V belts.

[burnin oil]

My PTO works in neutral with the clutch out for the hydraulic pump but should function in gear also.. All the ones designed to run off the transmission gears (forward or reverse) required a auxiliary transmission or transfercase to put the vehicle in neutral. These were all winches. Thinking about the powerline bucket trucks, they worked in neutral or in gear also. All required the clutch to be out to function.

[Seanext]

Thinking about the PTO that makes sense that it would only work with the clutch out. I will push the clutch in and see it the engine turn or not. That should eliminate everything but the engine. I checked the oil thinking that there might be water in the pan but none and the dipstick and it is about half a quart low so I am pretty sure there is no water in the pan. I am thinking there is a couple of rings stuck. Hopefully the oil concoction will free it up.

[burnin oil]

Sounds like you will get lucky here since the cylinders look good and there is no water in the pan. If it doesn't brake loose after a few days it may be worth the time to pull the valve covers and make sure it doesn't have a stuck valve or two.

I just tore down a toyota motor that knocked a rod and barely ran when it was brought to me. When I pulled the motor it had frozen. Diagnosis was a rod bearing. I also have a core 3.1L firebird motor that was locked up. Owner had heavy oil in it and tried to start it up. Locked. Loosening the main bolts got her spinning again. That same trick worked on a Kia that was run low on oil. Just food for thought. I have seen more than 1 fleet vehicles run low on oil that locked up and the drivers would add oil to CYA.

[Seanext]

Got the bed cut down to the original length. There was more bubble gum welding than I have ever seen in one spot. She is already starting to look better.
Driver door drops about two inches as soon as you open it. You can see in the pictures why that is. More quality welding. LOL

Engine is still stuck filled the cylinders again with MM oil. I got under the truck and made sure the PTO was not engaged causing an issue, then check and made sure with the clutch in truck rolls no problem, and got a good battery and kept hitting the starter and still stuck. Pulled the valve covers and checked all the valves and there are no stuck valves. I guess it is just a waiting game. I took the valve covers and put them in the parts washer and I guess 49 years of grease and oil worked good to cover the sticker. I have never seen one like this. Was this something that they all had when new?

[Getter-Done]

Nice progress.

I have seen a few of those stickers.

The ones I remember was early 70's cars.

Flip for ya.

[va72longhorn]

Yeah, my pump only works with the clutch out, as well.
Have the same sticker on the original valve cover too.