OT-'37 Chevy Coupe...too much project? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

silvertonguedevil · 07-19-2004, 10:56 PM

This is a little off of the topic here but I went out to visit a friend yesterday and look at a '70 GMC he just got and low and behold, right next to his driveway sits a '37 Chevy Coupe body. The floors are completely gone. The trunk floor is probably 75% there but there are no floors in the car what-so-ever. The doors aren't even close to lining up because there are no rockers to hold the body together (as you can see in the photos) but the outer part of the body is awesome. There are no bullet holes or dents anywhere. Also sitting inside the car was a very nice grille support. Now, this car is virtually mine for the taking. I can just go and load it up. The question is....is it too much of a project? I understand it could take a lot of work, but is it worth it? If I really set out to find a restorable '37 Chevy Coupe, I would think that I would be spending an arm and a leg. I suppose most importantly, if you ran across this, would you drag it home? Opinions needed!

silvertonguedevil · 07-19-2004, 10:57 PM

...and two more

cdowns · 07-19-2004, 11:22 PM

looks like it would be a good candidate for a retro dirt-track modified type of car for near nothing you couldn't go wrong

JimKshortstep4x4 · 07-20-2004, 07:54 AM

A lot depends on whether or not you want a 37 Chevy coupe. Just moving it without destroying it will take some doing since there is no frame under it. Some kind of bracing will be needed prior to lifting it. A project like that one is possible to do given time, money, and talent. We did a 56 Chevy 2 dr HT that was similiar but it had a frame and we were able to realign the doors using cables tied to the frame to get the body back into position.

It would make a cool car but it is quite a committment to do a project like that.

Jim

Blue Beard · 07-20-2004, 08:08 AM

Haven't seen alot of the 37's....probably trading stock at the Portland swap meet.

72LOWBOY · 07-20-2004, 09:22 AM

In my opinion it"s too far gone. You also have to think about cost of replacing fenders,grille and rear deck lid on top of getting the shell back in shape. Then your looking at a chassis. I think you would be better off selling the doors and the doghouse on ebay. the doghouse you could fetch about $200.00 and the doors about $150.00 if there fairly solid and scrap the body. But if he has title for it. remove vin number and you can sell the title too. I have a 38 coupe which almost identical. If your set on building this email me and I send you in the right direction on parts.
george

silvertonguedevil · 07-20-2004, 10:10 AM

Jim K- I have been thinking about how to move the car for the last couple of nights now (I haven't been sleeping much since I saw the damn thing. lol). I figured that I would have to come up with something that I could attach or even tack-weld to the inside of the body to brace or hold it together for moving purposes and to also set the body up so I could put floors back in it. To answer the question, yes, I would love to have a '37 Chevy Coupe.

72Lowboy- I was looking at what these cars go for yesterday on the internet and I what I came up with is that a decent restorable car (that needs absolutely everything) fetches anywhere between $3K to $9K. A decent street rodded version that would have to be either re-done or freshened up went for anywhere between $18K and $26K. Then of course the high dollar cars went up from there. Now I know that you can't build these things for what you can go buy one for but my problem is is that I don't have $25K in one chunk that I can just go buy a car for. I know that this thing would be a money-pit but I'm not too concerned with that. It's something I could just keep in the corner of the shop and build on over time. Yes, in the long run, it's gonna cost an arm and a leg but it's something I can spread over time. I really love these cars ('37-'39 coupes) and I would really love to have this one (it's cheap. lol). I guess the question I should have asked is "Is it do-able?" I would love to BS with you about parts and your experiences with these. I had a '36 Chevy 2 door sedan once but I sold it before I did anything with it. So, technically, this will be my first street rod. Thank you in advance for any advice/insight you can give me. If you really believe that this thing is too far gone, I guess I will have to listen to that too.

JimKshortstep4x4 · 07-20-2004, 10:17 AM

Silvertonguedevil,

In looking at the pictures, my first thought would be to brace the body from side to side with a 1 1/2" angle welded to the rear lower posts. Since the doors are sagging so badly, the windshield posts must be allowing the sag, (probably the area where the posts connect to the roof line). I believe that you can use two cables with tensioners to draw the body back together using the doors as a way to know when the body is back into position. Two 1/8" cables should be strong enough to pull the body back into line. You would attach one end of the cables to the 1 1/2" angle and the other to lower front door post as low as you can get it. Once the doors are lined up, tach welding the doors to the rear posts should make the unit strong enough to handle. If there is any flopping of sheet metal, additional bracing might be necessary.

It sounds like it would be a project that you could do.

Good luck!

Jim

silvertonguedevil · 07-20-2004, 11:32 AM

Thanks Jim! I think that that might work better than any plans that I had. By using the tensioner, that would allow you to adjust the body to where you wanted it rather than trying to hold it with manpower while welding it (and hoping that you got it right. lol) It would be a lot more accurate that way.

chevjayfsd · 07-20-2004, 02:35 PM

Just an idea... You could go ahead and pick it up... Then do some body work to it, throw some nice primer on it and then sell it.... It would bring in alot more than selling it as is... you could make a very nice profit off of it...

Jason

silvertonguedevil · 07-20-2004, 02:55 PM

Yeah, that's always an option too. Of course, I am wanting to keep it for myself at this time, but if I ever realized I was in over my head, I could sell it. How's the saying go...."you can't polish a turd"?

Well, I would be willing to try!

gr8scott51 · 07-20-2004, 03:24 PM

Run away!!

72LOWBOY · 07-20-2004, 04:02 PM

Hear are some links that mat help.
http://directsheetmetal.net/pages/chevy.html

http://www.superiorglassworks.com
these links will give you an idea. Superior I have never dealt with, I usually deal with Old Chicago fiberglass parts,don't have there web address though.Direct sheetmetal has great stuff. The hardest part for that vehicle to find will be a steel decklid. They're Gold.

silvertonguedevil · 07-20-2004, 06:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gr8scott51

Run away!!

Oh Great! Thanks Scott!

silvertonguedevil · 07-20-2004, 06:33 PM

Thanks 72lowboy! Those are great sites. I ran across Old Chicago yesterday. They look pretty good too.

JimKshortstep4x4 · 07-20-2004, 07:58 PM

Silvertonguedevil,

We used 3/8" turnbuckles as a means to tighten the cables. They had more than enough pulling power and it was a pretty accurate way to pull the body in position so as to weld the rockers in place.

Good luck on your project, I hope you complete it.

Jim

07-19-2004, 10:56 PM	#1
silvertonguedevil Senior Member Join Date: May 2004 Location: Seaside, Oregon Posts: 1,789	OT-'37 Chevy Coupe...too much project? This is a little off of the topic here but I went out to visit a friend yesterday and look at a '70 GMC he just got and low and behold, right next to his driveway sits a '37 Chevy Coupe body. The floors are completely gone. The trunk floor is probably 75% there but there are no floors in the car what-so-ever. The doors aren't even close to lining up because there are no rockers to hold the body together (as you can see in the photos) but the outer part of the body is awesome. There are no bullet holes or dents anywhere. Also sitting inside the car was a very nice grille support. Now, this car is virtually mine for the taking. I can just go and load it up. The question is....is it too much of a project? I understand it could take a lot of work, but is it worth it? If I really set out to find a restorable '37 Chevy Coupe, I would think that I would be spending an arm and a leg. I suppose most importantly, if you ran across this, would you drag it home? Opinions needed! Attached Images __________________ -Greg My Chevy trucks, past and present: 1962 C10 SB Fleetside 1964 C10 LB Fleetside BBW 1966 C10 SB Fleetside 1966 C10 SB Fleetside BBW 1968 C10 SB Fleetside 1971 C10 LB Fleetside 1971 C10 SB Fleetside 1972 C10 SB Fleetside Cheyenne 1972 C10 SB Fleetside Cheyenne Super 1972 C10 LB Fleetside Cheyenne Super 1974 C20 Cheyenne 1979 K5 Blazer Cheyenne 1982 K10 SB Fleetside Custom Deluxe 1982 K10 SB Fleetside Scottsdale 1986 C10 SB Fleetside Silverado 2008 Silverado 1500 4x4

07-19-2004, 10:57 PM	#2
silvertonguedevil Senior Member Join Date: May 2004 Location: Seaside, Oregon Posts: 1,789	...and two more Attached Images __________________ -Greg My Chevy trucks, past and present: 1962 C10 SB Fleetside 1964 C10 LB Fleetside BBW 1966 C10 SB Fleetside 1966 C10 SB Fleetside BBW 1968 C10 SB Fleetside 1971 C10 LB Fleetside 1971 C10 SB Fleetside 1972 C10 SB Fleetside Cheyenne 1972 C10 SB Fleetside Cheyenne Super 1972 C10 LB Fleetside Cheyenne Super 1974 C20 Cheyenne 1979 K5 Blazer Cheyenne 1982 K10 SB Fleetside Custom Deluxe 1982 K10 SB Fleetside Scottsdale 1986 C10 SB Fleetside Silverado 2008 Silverado 1500 4x4

07-19-2004, 11:22 PM	#3
cdowns Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: daytonabeach Posts: 22,956	looks like it would be a good candidate for a retro dirt-track modified type of car for near nothing you couldn't go wrong __________________ 71c-10 350/2004r/4:11 lowered3/4 longbed/dead by hurricane MEANING OF DEATH::::: SOMEBODY ELSE GETS YOUR STUFF DONT BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU THINK TAKE MY ADVISE;I DON'T USE IT ANYWAY

07-20-2004, 08:08 AM	#5
Blue Beard Registered User Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Washington State Posts: 8,834	Haven't seen alot of the 37's....probably trading stock at the Portland swap meet. __________________ 1970 Chev CST 2003 Harley Fatboy 1975 Chevrolet Step Van 1956 Chev Bel Air 1977 Blazer 2WD For Sale $3000.00 1978 Blazer 2WD For Sale $7000.00 1978 Silverado 2005 Monte Carlo

07-20-2004, 09:22 AM	#6
72LOWBOY Registered User Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Coral Springs,FL Posts: 100	In my opinion it"s too far gone. You also have to think about cost of replacing fenders,grille and rear deck lid on top of getting the shell back in shape. Then your looking at a chassis. I think you would be better off selling the doors and the doghouse on ebay. the doghouse you could fetch about $200.00 and the doors about $150.00 if there fairly solid and scrap the body. But if he has title for it. remove vin number and you can sell the title too. I have a 38 coupe which almost identical. If your set on building this email me and I send you in the right direction on parts. george __________________ 72 Chevy LWB leaf spring rear,SBC 385 Fast Burn,Art Carr built 700r4,3.73 Eaton posi,one piece windows,lowered 4/5.5, 60/40 seat, shaved turn signals,shaved reverse lights,shaved stake pockets, stainless steel 21gall in rear, c-notched, vintage air,ps,pb,currently doing body work. 68 Camaro conv.327,turbo 350,pb,disc brakes,built it for the wife 38 Chevy Coupe on the back burner LIFE IS GOOD! SMILE

07-20-2004, 07:54 AM	#4
JimKshortstep4x4 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Muskegon,MI,USA Posts: 6,026	A lot depends on whether or not you want a 37 Chevy coupe. Just moving it without destroying it will take some doing since there is no frame under it. Some kind of bracing will be needed prior to lifting it. A project like that one is possible to do given time, money, and talent. We did a 56 Chevy 2 dr HT that was similiar but it had a frame and we were able to realign the doors using cables tied to the frame to get the body back into position. It would make a cool car but it is quite a committment to do a project like that. Jim

07-20-2004, 10:10 AM	#7
silvertonguedevil Senior Member Join Date: May 2004 Location: Seaside, Oregon Posts: 1,789	Jim K- I have been thinking about how to move the car for the last couple of nights now (I haven't been sleeping much since I saw the damn thing. lol). I figured that I would have to come up with something that I could attach or even tack-weld to the inside of the body to brace or hold it together for moving purposes and to also set the body up so I could put floors back in it. To answer the question, yes, I would love to have a '37 Chevy Coupe. 72Lowboy- I was looking at what these cars go for yesterday on the internet and I what I came up with is that a decent restorable car (that needs absolutely everything) fetches anywhere between $3K to $9K. A decent street rodded version that would have to be either re-done or freshened up went for anywhere between $18K and $26K. Then of course the high dollar cars went up from there. Now I know that you can't build these things for what you can go buy one for but my problem is is that I don't have $25K in one chunk that I can just go buy a car for. I know that this thing would be a money-pit but I'm not too concerned with that. It's something I could just keep in the corner of the shop and build on over time. Yes, in the long run, it's gonna cost an arm and a leg but it's something I can spread over time. I really love these cars ('37-'39 coupes) and I would really love to have this one (it's cheap. lol). I guess the question I should have asked is "Is it do-able?" I would love to BS with you about parts and your experiences with these. I had a '36 Chevy 2 door sedan once but I sold it before I did anything with it. So, technically, this will be my first street rod. Thank you in advance for any advice/insight you can give me. If you really believe that this thing is too far gone, I guess I will have to listen to that too. __________________ -Greg My Chevy trucks, past and present: 1962 C10 SB Fleetside 1964 C10 LB Fleetside BBW 1966 C10 SB Fleetside 1966 C10 SB Fleetside BBW 1968 C10 SB Fleetside 1971 C10 LB Fleetside 1971 C10 SB Fleetside 1972 C10 SB Fleetside Cheyenne 1972 C10 SB Fleetside Cheyenne Super 1972 C10 LB Fleetside Cheyenne Super 1974 C20 Cheyenne 1979 K5 Blazer Cheyenne 1982 K10 SB Fleetside Custom Deluxe 1982 K10 SB Fleetside Scottsdale 1986 C10 SB Fleetside Silverado 2008 Silverado 1500 4x4

07-20-2004, 10:17 AM	#8
JimKshortstep4x4 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Muskegon,MI,USA Posts: 6,026	Silvertonguedevil, In looking at the pictures, my first thought would be to brace the body from side to side with a 1 1/2" angle welded to the rear lower posts. Since the doors are sagging so badly, the windshield posts must be allowing the sag, (probably the area where the posts connect to the roof line). I believe that you can use two cables with tensioners to draw the body back together using the doors as a way to know when the body is back into position. Two 1/8" cables should be strong enough to pull the body back into line. You would attach one end of the cables to the 1 1/2" angle and the other to lower front door post as low as you can get it. Once the doors are lined up, tach welding the doors to the rear posts should make the unit strong enough to handle. If there is any flopping of sheet metal, additional bracing might be necessary. It sounds like it would be a project that you could do. Good luck! Jim Last edited by JimKshortstep4x4; 07-20-2004 at 11:09 AM.

07-20-2004, 11:32 AM	#9
silvertonguedevil Senior Member Join Date: May 2004 Location: Seaside, Oregon Posts: 1,789	Thanks Jim! I think that that might work better than any plans that I had. By using the tensioner, that would allow you to adjust the body to where you wanted it rather than trying to hold it with manpower while welding it (and hoping that you got it right. lol) It would be a lot more accurate that way. __________________ -Greg My Chevy trucks, past and present: 1962 C10 SB Fleetside 1964 C10 LB Fleetside BBW 1966 C10 SB Fleetside 1966 C10 SB Fleetside BBW 1968 C10 SB Fleetside 1971 C10 LB Fleetside 1971 C10 SB Fleetside 1972 C10 SB Fleetside Cheyenne 1972 C10 SB Fleetside Cheyenne Super 1972 C10 LB Fleetside Cheyenne Super 1974 C20 Cheyenne 1979 K5 Blazer Cheyenne 1982 K10 SB Fleetside Custom Deluxe 1982 K10 SB Fleetside Scottsdale 1986 C10 SB Fleetside Silverado 2008 Silverado 1500 4x4

07-20-2004, 02:35 PM	#10
chevjayfsd Project 7dos Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Abilene, Texas Posts: 876	Just an idea... You could go ahead and pick it up... Then do some body work to it, throw some nice primer on it and then sell it.... It would bring in alot more than selling it as is... you could make a very nice profit off of it... Jason __________________ 7DOS - 1972 C-10 350/350 Porterbuilt/Accuair 20x8.5/20x10 Ride Low or Die PSSST - Yes it's bagged. 7dos build thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=610290

07-20-2004, 02:55 PM	#11
silvertonguedevil Senior Member Join Date: May 2004 Location: Seaside, Oregon Posts: 1,789	Yeah, that's always an option too. Of course, I am wanting to keep it for myself at this time, but if I ever realized I was in over my head, I could sell it. How's the saying go...."you can't polish a turd"? Well, I would be willing to try! __________________ -Greg My Chevy trucks, past and present: 1962 C10 SB Fleetside 1964 C10 LB Fleetside BBW 1966 C10 SB Fleetside 1966 C10 SB Fleetside BBW 1968 C10 SB Fleetside 1971 C10 LB Fleetside 1971 C10 SB Fleetside 1972 C10 SB Fleetside Cheyenne 1972 C10 SB Fleetside Cheyenne Super 1972 C10 LB Fleetside Cheyenne Super 1974 C20 Cheyenne 1979 K5 Blazer Cheyenne 1982 K10 SB Fleetside Custom Deluxe 1982 K10 SB Fleetside Scottsdale 1986 C10 SB Fleetside Silverado 2008 Silverado 1500 4x4

07-20-2004, 03:24 PM	#12
gr8scott51 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Bremerton, WA Posts: 1,839	Run away!! __________________ Silence is golden, duct tape is silver. - Scott

07-20-2004, 04:02 PM	#13
72LOWBOY Registered User Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Coral Springs,FL Posts: 100	Hear are some links that mat help. http://directsheetmetal.net/pages/chevy.html http://www.superiorglassworks.com these links will give you an idea. Superior I have never dealt with, I usually deal with Old Chicago fiberglass parts,don't have there web address though.Direct sheetmetal has great stuff. The hardest part for that vehicle to find will be a steel decklid. They're Gold. __________________ 72 Chevy LWB leaf spring rear,SBC 385 Fast Burn,Art Carr built 700r4,3.73 Eaton posi,one piece windows,lowered 4/5.5, 60/40 seat, shaved turn signals,shaved reverse lights,shaved stake pockets, stainless steel 21gall in rear, c-notched, vintage air,ps,pb,currently doing body work. 68 Camaro conv.327,turbo 350,pb,disc brakes,built it for the wife 38 Chevy Coupe on the back burner LIFE IS GOOD! SMILE

07-20-2004, 06:33 PM	#15
silvertonguedevil Senior Member Join Date: May 2004 Location: Seaside, Oregon Posts: 1,789	Thanks 72lowboy! Those are great sites. I ran across Old Chicago yesterday. They look pretty good too. __________________ -Greg My Chevy trucks, past and present: 1962 C10 SB Fleetside 1964 C10 LB Fleetside BBW 1966 C10 SB Fleetside 1966 C10 SB Fleetside BBW 1968 C10 SB Fleetside 1971 C10 LB Fleetside 1971 C10 SB Fleetside 1972 C10 SB Fleetside Cheyenne 1972 C10 SB Fleetside Cheyenne Super 1972 C10 LB Fleetside Cheyenne Super 1974 C20 Cheyenne 1979 K5 Blazer Cheyenne 1982 K10 SB Fleetside Custom Deluxe 1982 K10 SB Fleetside Scottsdale 1986 C10 SB Fleetside Silverado 2008 Silverado 1500 4x4

07-20-2004, 07:58 PM	#16
JimKshortstep4x4 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Muskegon,MI,USA Posts: 6,026	Silvertonguedevil, We used 3/8" turnbuckles as a means to tighten the cables. They had more than enough pulling power and it was a pretty accurate way to pull the body in position so as to weld the rockers in place. Good luck on your project, I hope you complete it. Jim



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