My 72 Build

[tucktuck]

Flex plate installed and torqued to 74lb ft, again with ARP bolts.

[tucktuck]

Pulled old balancer off and installed the new one that came with the Holley accessory drive kit.

[tucktuck]

Mated up the new 4l80e trans and almost got it installed. trans mount wasn't working right so I called it a night..

[tucktuck]

Well, I sorta screwed up...

I boxed my frame with the frame stiffeners and then also added some 1/4" plate I had laying around to make sure it was rigid.

fast forward a few months when I finally got around to installing my motor and trans, and realized that my "boxing" would interfere with my transmission crossmember. So...I had to re-engineer my Dirty Dingo Trans mount by having a local fab shop bend up some 1/4" L brackets, cutting off the ends of the original crossmember, and then welding it back up. Drilled a few more hole and I think it'll work.

Always something it seems.

[tucktuck]

Once that was figured out and bolted up, I bolted the torque converter to the flywheel.

I ordered that expensive ass flywheel cover from GM, got it painted up just to find out the holes need to be opened up a bit on one side...

[tucktuck]

I know its a bit premature, but I went ahead and leveled my frame to see what angle my motor and pinion were at. I figured my pinion was high just by eyeballing, but damn...

Motor was at 5.3 while the rear was at 11.9

It is bolted up to the tabs and on the lowest setting on the rear No Limit crossmember.

Any Ideas besides shims or cutting the tabs off and re-welding them. Id really hate to do this as everything is already painted and I don't want to start over...

[tucktuck]

While I was waiting for my dust cover to dry, I went ahead and started installing my accessory drive system. It's pretty straight forward there.

[mr.mud1]

it looks like there's a spacer between the rear pad on the bottom of the rear and the trailing arm?you may have to taper that or make tapered spacers to get the nose of the rearend down?

[Richard]

Looks like the front of your angle gauge is being raised up by the pinion dust shield. At least a few degrees, thinking pinion is closer to 9. Put gauge on front surface of yoke. Lowering the trans mount, raising engine mount, angle shims to get pinion down or cutting pads and re-weld would seem to be only options. A 3 degree shim may get you within 1 degree with the fat part pointed to the front.

[72Teeroy]

Very nice work going to one bad @ss truck

[tucktuck]

Originally Posted by mr.mud1

it looks like there's a spacer between the rear pad on the bottom of the rear and the trailing arm?you may have to taper that or make tapered spacers to get the nose of the rearend down?

Yes sir, those are just a 1" lowering spacer.

[tucktuck]

Originally Posted by Richard

Looks like the front of your angle gauge is being raised up by the pinion dust shield. At least a few degrees, thinking pinion is closer to 9. Put gauge on front surface of yoke. Lowering the trans mount, raising engine mount, angle shims to get pinion down or cutting pads and re-weld would seem to be only options. A 3 degree shim may get you within 1 degree with the fat part pointed to the front.

Thanks Richard, I didn't even notice the dust cover.

I'm maxed on motor and trans so at this point its either shims or re-welding the tabs.

[tucktuck]

Originally Posted by 72Teeroy

Very nice work going to one bad @ss truck

Thank you.

[lolife99]

Is that your simulated ride height?
Your rear axle tubes are a long way away from your frame that is c-notched.
I bet your pinion angle is a lot closer at ride height.

[tucktuck]

Well, Richard definitely had it right...

[tucktuck]

Originally Posted by lolife99

Is that your simulated ride height?
Your rear axle tubes are a long way away from your frame that is c-notched.
I bet your pinion angle is a lot closer at ride height.

I guess simulated minus body weight would be the correct answer lol. I set all the coils overs about the same, and this is without body weight on it, so I'm sure it will change some, just didn't figure it would change that much.

[tucktuck]

Got all my accessories mounted except the power steering pump. Gotta go snag a pulley install tool this morning and get it installed.

[tucktuck]

Got the pulley installed on the power steering pump, and got the pump installed on the engine. went ahead and threw the belt on too.

I kn ow some of this will have to come back off, but I was on a roll lol.

[tucktuck]

Moved on from that to opening the holes for the dust cover and installing it, then in to the headers. Here is the passenger side.

[tucktuck]

Here is the drivers side. Looks like I will have to trim the tabs off near the Bellhousing to keep the two from rubbing. These are the Doug Thorley Try Y kn ceramic coating.

Got luck as hell when torquing them to the recommended 25 ib ft...my tongue wrench must felt like it was getting them way past that when I heard the bolt pop...I said a few choice words and started backing it out by hand to find it still intact. Whew!

[tucktuck]

Made up my AN fittings for the fuel rail crossover and got them installed. Put the plug wires on as well.

[tucktuck]

102mm DBW Throttle body installed, and a couple of pics of how things are looking...

I am officially out of parts and waiting for more to come in.

Off to order some more too!

[mr.mud1]

she's beautiful,it's going to a knockout.

[tucktuck]

Originally Posted by mr.mud1

she's beautiful,it's going to a knockout.

Thank you sir! I sure hope so!

[tucktuck]

Entropy Radiator ordered. Still waiting on my Terminator Max wiring and harness to show up. Ordering a driveshaft next week, then it's about tine to start the body work.