47-59 HydroBoost / LS GM Type II Pump Connections

[daveshilling]

Getting back to my Hydroboost setup...I'm trying to sort out the cleanest way to get this plumbing done.

A couple questions for those running the setup:

1. Which fitting did you use for the high pressure pump outlet? Factory has a fitting that accepts a shallow o-ring end, then a little hard line that screws into that and sticks out, and has a female end.. I'd like to skip that piece if possible and just go straight from the HB to the pump, but all the pump-to-AN bits seem to be made for flow reduction.

2. Where did yall stick your PS Fluid cooler?

[Thealien]

I did mine with all AN fittings. I used the black braided hose instead of the stainless steel.

[Kevin_C]

im in the process of plumbing my hydroboost for the new engine. On the pump side I ordered part F06ANPSM1615 to convert it to 6AN. on some of the corvette pumps the fitting is closer to the pulley so there is an extension fitting that replaces the valve as well but I have plenty of clearance with the LS3 pump. my hydro boost side was already converted to 6an. summit carries a lot of premade lines in various lengths

[daveshilling]

Originally Posted by Thealien

I did mine with all AN fittings. I used the black braided hose instead of the stainless steel.

Which fitting did you use for the high pressure pump outlet?

[Kevin_C]

F06ANPSM1615 from ICT. was $8.99 on amazon shipped

[daveshilling]

Originally Posted by Kevin_C

im in the process of plumbing my hydroboost for the new engine. On the pump side I ordered part F06ANPSM1615 to convert it to 6AN. on some of the corvette pumps the fitting is closer to the pulley so there is an extension fitting that replaces the valve as well but I have plenty of clearance with the LS3 pump. my hydro boost side was already converted to 6an. summit carries a lot of premade lines in various lengths

I have one of those, made by Russell, and it seems like its way too long. there is space for a larger O-ring like OEM, yet it would never have a chance to contact any surface. If someone made this, with a flare end like the Allstar Performance ALL48210 fitting, but shorter, it would be perfect.

[Kevin_C]

I believe it may come down to the style of pump your running. I checked the fitting on the pump on my old SBC and it uses more of a compression fitting style like your old line. the LS3 pump I got from ITC uses the o-ring on the tip style. attached is the 6AN adapter that was on my old pump

[_Ogre]

If you have the older GM pump, it's just an inverted flare in the pump fitting. Check out this link From Jegs I ran GM pump with Ford rack, the flow reducer helped a lot. The flow reducer replaces the big fitting in the back of the pump

[_Ogre]

Inverted flare is same as a brake line fitting. I didn't have room for adapter and a 90° AN fitting, I believe that I used a 3\8" inverted flare nut on a bent 90° tube fitting that is crimped on hydraulic hose. I'm traveling and don't have access to pictures. Check out my thread, I'm sure that I've posted it 100 times at least

[_Ogre]

Available anywhere

[G&R's57GMC]

Dave could you post a picture of your p/s pump on your LS ? It would make it clear what pump you are running.

Also that you are running a Corvette rack and a Bendix Hydra Boost .
You don’t want to reduce pressure or flow just get a fitting that will allow you to go from pump to rack and H/B .
So the question is does anyone have an idea what fitting and where to get it .

Ya I know, I’ll be quiet now

[_Ogre]

Found it

[daveshilling]

Its a GM LS Type II PS pump... aside from the double low pressure return, how many versions of that are there?

I assume this female end is just the compliment to the factory hard line fitting...

The factory bit has an o-ring AND a slight flare at the end but just half the thread count.

I have a GM rack so no pressure reduction needed, which is too bad because those would all fit easily and work.

[Hcb3200]

just remember every time you introduce a fitting or adapter its another possible leak point. after going thru the conversions to an and custom hose ends etc and finding leaks after running wrenching here and there i finally punted and went standard stock.

I went to my local hose shop and had long runs made (so I could move them around) with stock GM O-ring ends crimped on each end and done.

don't change flow or pressure until you get it all plumbed up and checked out.
its easy to change that one fitting or shims if needed in the pump.

[Hcb3200]

2. Where did yall stick your PS Fluid cooler?


and to answer this.
Mine is just under radiator it gets enough airflow around it. I had it in front of radiator at one time but moved it down when I installed AC.

[_Ogre]

Originally Posted by daveshilling

I assume this female end is just the compliment to the factory hard line fitting....

that's actually the pressure regulator. If you pull it, there are spring washers behind it

TRUK does not have a ps cooler, why do you think you need one?
I've driven hotrod power tour in slow heavy traffic in 105° without one

Looking at your original fitting, I believe it's still an inverted flare that someone threw an o-ring on

[duramax55]

daveshilling i think that if that new fitting goes in ther and you have enough room for the an fitting you would be fine. The sealing point is at the contact point and no need for a oring at the nut end. the old fitting must have been leaking and someone tryed to stop it with the o rings.

[1project2many]

Here is an O ring fitting:


Here is an inverted flare fitting:


Here is a special (and cool) part designed to transform the first fitting into the second.


The nut in the picture you posted appears to be designed for an "O" ring fitting. This fitting relies heavily on the end of the line being formed and sized correctly. The flat flange in the tubing which acts as an O-ring backer must be in good shape, not cracked or bent. The O-ring must be the correct size, both ID and OD, and should not be tapered or "squished." The nut on the PS line should have a flat, squared surface which applies pressure evenly to the backer. This way the backing flange is not distorted when the nut is tightened. Many people misunderstand these fittings and try all sorts of wrong fixes when the fitting leaks. It is possible that Ogre is correct, the tubing you have is using an inverted flare nut on an O ring end. It definitely looks like your tube has a home-grown fix in the form of a larger O-ring at the top of the nut. The adapter on the RH side of the photo next to the section of tubing would work perfectly. The O-ring on the end of the fitting is the only one needed to seal the connection. The large O ring on the nut on the LH side of the photo is not needed.

I would not use a flare fitting in an O-ring pump nut. It might work and it might be fine. But my experience working on vehicles with mix-n-match fittings is that it is likely to develop a leak when you least want one.

There are *many* variations on the pressure and flow regulators on stock GM pumps. There are also two different methods of installing HB on OE GM vehicles. IME when the HB is in series with the steering gear there is a significant but very brief reduction in steering assist if you simulate a panic stop at the brake pedal. IME when the HB is in parallel with the steering gear the steering system is less affected by braking. In order to plumb HB in parallel you would not want flow restriction.

Cooler should be in the return line before the steering box. Best if it is after the steering box and HB and before pump. I usually put PS coolers in front of the radiator but they can be found in OE applications under the core support. I agree with Ogre... It won't hurt but it's probably not necessary unless you are building a vehicle that will carve corners and use brakes hard and often.

[1project2many]

Here are the typical GM / Saginaw O-ring style power steering fittings:



Some of the Ford fittings are very different:




Most of the Ford designs are completely incompatible with the Saginaw fittings. In thinking about it, it is possible someone used a Ford nut or line in your GM pump. Regardless, I think that you will be able to simplify the installation by using Saginaw O-ring fittings with that pump.

[daveshilling]

Here is the GM Piece, it looks exactly the same as what I've removed, save for the larger O-Ring.

I have that Russell fitting in there now, but it sticks out and has visible thread. Notice that the pressure regulator only has like 4-5 thread turns, and this part show below has a small amount as well. It's entirely possible the extra threads are meaningless on the Russell bit, and this is much ado about nothing, but if there is part that solves it all, I want to find it. I've thought about just getting a reduced pressure flow adapter, since they make them directly to 6AN, and just seeing how the steering is when it's time.

-Ogre-

I'm running the PS cooler because they are cheap at the yard, not terribly bulky, and GM engineers though it was swell. Since I'll be running fluid down to the HB, I bet the lines themselves will help dissipate heat, but assuming that I have no leaks, I see no real downside here. I don't usually pay extra for peace of mind, but when I do, its under $40.

[1project2many]

The extra threads don't affect the function of the fitting. As long as the O ring seats on the flange, and as long as the flange is not damaged, it will seal. Some of the GM fittings from FWD applications have a similar amount of extra thread.

Summit has hundreds of fittings although I'm not sure if any are shorter than the one you have now.
https://www.summitracing.com/search/...%3Amale-o-ring

Maybe these are better?
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/clp-605anf-or

Question: Would you be opposed to putting an O-ring fitting directly on your line and skipping the adapter? There are tools that can form the O-ring fitting on 10mm and 3/8" tubing. I've cut existing fittings off a length of tubing in order to form the tube into what I need.
https://www.toolsource.com/flaring-t...t-p-91005.html

[daveshilling]

Originally Posted by 1project2many

The extra threads don't affect the function of the fitting. As long as the O ring seats on the flange, and as long as the flange is not damaged, it will seal. Some of the GM fittings from FWD applications have a similar amount of extra thread.

I think I'll go ahead and run the fitting with the exposed threads (I have the fitting already so why not) and see what happens...

If someone is reading this sometime in the future after searching, and you are going from a GM pump to a Ford T-Bird Rack, all your problems are solved... you install a flow reducer and it already comes with the -6AN end!

[Rickysnickers]

Exactly what I did Dave. I bought one of these....https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/60791/10002/-1

[daveshilling]

Originally Posted by Rickysnickers

Exactly what I did Dave. I bought one of these....https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/60791/10002/-1

They even make those as a single piece now, too. One less thing to leak!

[Rickysnickers]

Even better, nice!