Drip Rail Prep - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

stllookn · 07-27-2004, 01:24 AM

I just stripped my drip rails down to bare metal this evening with a high speed grinder and small wire wheel. It is clean and shiny. What's the best prep to use under the seam sealer? Should it be sanded to give it some tooth and then use Prepsol? I wonder if I should use an epoxy primer or POR15 under the seam sealer in case it decides to crack and leak just like the OEM sealer? Any thoughts here?

mrein3 · 07-27-2004, 07:26 AM

TTT.
I was thinking about getting a tube of seam sealer while I'm waiting to get my engine back from the machine shop.
Anybody?

**StingRay** · 07-27-2004, 09:38 AM

If it's clean and rust free I'd use either a metal prep or a washprimer followed by epoxy primer and a primer surfacer. I'd apply the seam sealer after all bodywork and sanding are done to keep primer build up off of the sealer.

stllookn · 07-27-2004, 09:58 AM

I may not paint the truck for a year or so and may leave it in primer. So I am guessing that I should do all the primer steps expect the last one and then put on the seam sealer and call it good for now. I wonder about leaving the seam sealer exposed to the UV for a year...probably should prime it as well.

Mixup · 07-27-2004, 10:26 AM

I emailed 3M to ask them what to use on the drip rail. They told me to use Drip-Chek #8531. They said there are some better products that you can use but you need a high dollar tool like a caulking gun to put it on. They said the Drip-hek will work fine. I just did mine about a week ago. After you put it on it will lay down flat when it starts to dry. You can also put a second coat on but if it has been a couple of days they said to lightly sand it first.

Mixup · 07-27-2004, 10:29 AM

I forgot to tell you how much I used.It took about 1 1/2 tubes to do so I would get at least 2 tubes.

stllookn · 07-27-2004, 11:23 AM

Mixup, How did you prep the surface and how did it work on the vertical section? Is it UV sensitive or do I have to prime it soon after applying?

Mixup · 07-27-2004, 12:34 PM

I did the same thing you did. I cleaned the area with a wire wheel and cleaned it with lacquer thinner I primed the area and after the primer dried for a couple hours I put the drip chek on. It sticks well to the verticle area. I smoothed it out alittle with a plastic spoon and it leveled out when it dried.This is what 3M says, Heavy based sealer especially designed for verticle seams. Heavier bodied consistancy. Up to 1/8" can be applied easily.This product weathers well and does not deteriorate under sunlight. Excellant adhesion to metal, paint,glass,rubber etc. Resists oil and gas. They told me you can go moe then 1/8" after the first coat dries. It says on the tube to clean use lacquer thinner.

stllookn · 07-27-2004, 02:53 PM

Mixup, Thanks...that sounds pretty straight forward.

07-27-2004, 01:24 AM	#1
stllookn Saving 1 truck at a time! Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Kent, WA Posts: 6,465	Drip Rail Prep I just stripped my drip rails down to bare metal this evening with a high speed grinder and small wire wheel. It is clean and shiny. What's the best prep to use under the seam sealer? Should it be sanded to give it some tooth and then use Prepsol? I wonder if I should use an epoxy primer or POR15 under the seam sealer in case it decides to crack and leak just like the OEM sealer? Any thoughts here? __________________ '68 C20 Longhorn 50th Anniversary 400/TH400 '68 C20 Longhorn 50th Anniversary 468/TH400w/buckets '72 C20 Halfhorn (Longhorn w/o cab and front clip) '69 Flxible Cruiser (look up ugly in the dictionary)

07-27-2004, 07:26 AM	#2
mrein3 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Center City, MN, USA Posts: 3,253	TTT. I was thinking about getting a tube of seam sealer while I'm waiting to get my engine back from the machine shop. Anybody? __________________ '70 cab, '71 chassis, 383, TH350, NP205. '71 Malibu convertible '72 Malibu hard top Center City, MN

07-27-2004, 09:38 AM	#3
StingRay Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2000 Location: Saskatoon,SK,Canada Posts: 2,476	If it's clean and rust free I'd use either a metal prep or a washprimer followed by epoxy primer and a primer surfacer. I'd apply the seam sealer after all bodywork and sanding are done to keep primer build up off of the sealer. __________________ Saskatoon, Saskatchewan Canada

07-27-2004, 09:58 AM	#4
stllookn Saving 1 truck at a time! Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Kent, WA Posts: 6,465	I may not paint the truck for a year or so and may leave it in primer. So I am guessing that I should do all the primer steps expect the last one and then put on the seam sealer and call it good for now. I wonder about leaving the seam sealer exposed to the UV for a year...probably should prime it as well. __________________ '68 C20 Longhorn 50th Anniversary 400/TH400 '68 C20 Longhorn 50th Anniversary 468/TH400w/buckets '72 C20 Halfhorn (Longhorn w/o cab and front clip) '69 Flxible Cruiser (look up ugly in the dictionary)

07-27-2004, 10:26 AM	#5
Mixup Registered User Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Henderson, NV Posts: 358	Drip rail I emailed 3M to ask them what to use on the drip rail. They told me to use Drip-Chek #8531. They said there are some better products that you can use but you need a high dollar tool like a caulking gun to put it on. They said the Drip-hek will work fine. I just did mine about a week ago. After you put it on it will lay down flat when it starts to dry. You can also put a second coat on but if it has been a couple of days they said to lightly sand it first. __________________ 1980 Chevy Shortbed Pickup 1969 Z28 engine Turbo 350

07-27-2004, 10:29 AM	#6
Mixup Registered User Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Henderson, NV Posts: 358	Drip rail I forgot to tell you how much I used.It took about 1 1/2 tubes to do so I would get at least 2 tubes. __________________ 1980 Chevy Shortbed Pickup 1969 Z28 engine Turbo 350

07-27-2004, 11:23 AM	#7
stllookn Saving 1 truck at a time! Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Kent, WA Posts: 6,465	Mixup, How did you prep the surface and how did it work on the vertical section? Is it UV sensitive or do I have to prime it soon after applying? __________________ '68 C20 Longhorn 50th Anniversary 400/TH400 '68 C20 Longhorn 50th Anniversary 468/TH400w/buckets '72 C20 Halfhorn (Longhorn w/o cab and front clip) '69 Flxible Cruiser (look up ugly in the dictionary)

07-27-2004, 12:34 PM	#8
Mixup Registered User Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Henderson, NV Posts: 358	Drip rail I did the same thing you did. I cleaned the area with a wire wheel and cleaned it with lacquer thinner I primed the area and after the primer dried for a couple hours I put the drip chek on. It sticks well to the verticle area. I smoothed it out alittle with a plastic spoon and it leveled out when it dried.This is what 3M says, Heavy based sealer especially designed for verticle seams. Heavier bodied consistancy. Up to 1/8" can be applied easily.This product weathers well and does not deteriorate under sunlight. Excellant adhesion to metal, paint,glass,rubber etc. Resists oil and gas. They told me you can go moe then 1/8" after the first coat dries. It says on the tube to clean use lacquer thinner. __________________ 1980 Chevy Shortbed Pickup 1969 Z28 engine Turbo 350

07-27-2004, 02:53 PM	#9
stllookn Saving 1 truck at a time! Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Kent, WA Posts: 6,465	Mixup, Thanks...that sounds pretty straight forward. __________________ '68 C20 Longhorn 50th Anniversary 400/TH400 '68 C20 Longhorn 50th Anniversary 468/TH400w/buckets '72 C20 Halfhorn (Longhorn w/o cab and front clip) '69 Flxible Cruiser (look up ugly in the dictionary)



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