1970 GMC K2500 D44-5F Front Axle Parts

[BILT4ME]

Where can we get replacement axle shafts, seals, and U-joints for a 1970 K2500 350, SM465 4-sp, Dana 44-5F front axle? (4.10:1 open diff)

Both front axle shafts destroyed the U-joints and the shafts (inner and outer) on both sides.

All the shafts we can find have a different sealing surface or U-joint size.

These are 30 spline inner with 9 spline outer.

This axle has open knuckles with drum brakes.

We'd like to replace with like parts as a first choice since everything about the truck is numbers matching at this point in time.

Second choice is to replace the compete axle housing with a newer version. We have a line on a set of F/R axles from a 1978 K30 Chevrolet with 3.73 gears. We currently have 4.10's and a Detroit locker in the D60 rear, so reluctant to change gears, but not the end of the world.

Classic Parts and LMC do not have any parts for this.

[MJN]

try contacting torqueking.com or northerndrivetrain.com
It should have the smaller 260x ujoint shafts with 1.062" diameter caps, in '73 or '74 they changed to the 760x size ujoint with 1.188" diameter caps. Both are 1310 series joints.
Northern Drivetrain has Spicer stub and inner shafts in stock- best to call them and find out which ones fit your axle and if '71 and up shafts will fit.

[BILT4ME]

Originally Posted by MJN

try contacting torqueking.com or northerndrivetrain.com
It should have the smaller 260x ujoint shafts with 1.062" diameter caps, in '73 or '74 they changed to the 760x size ujoint with 1.188" diameter caps. Both are 1310 series joints.
Northern Drivetrain has Spicer stub and inner shafts in stock- best to call them and find out which ones fit your axle and if '71 and up shafts will fit.

Excellent!

I will check with them and report back!

Thank you!

[kwmech]

For the K2500 I would upgrade to the later 44 stuff. AND actually purchasing the early stuff may actually cost you more than the readily available stuff. Personally I'd go for the 1 ton stuff and swap it over. The only real hassle will be the disc brakes (unless you've already done that). And the 14 bolt in the rear will take a little bit of welding. Over all the 1 ton will be worth it. Putting the D60 I would recommend buying the 3/4 ton caliper mount so you can run the stock calipers.. The massive D60 calipers suck a lot of fluid from the master cylinder and will give you a spongy pedal

[D.PASSMORE]

I upgraded my axles a few years ago: Parts list:
Finally got this completed, not a lot of info out there to ensure all the parts is on-hand to make the change over. It was rather easy, so here is the parts numbers and some explaining:
Dana Shafts:
Long: 27902X
Short: 27901X
Outer stub axle: 41677 (2ea)
Slinger: 36364 (2ea) – Pressed onto Outer Stub Axle
Seal Kit: 706527X (2ea) Dust seal rides on Slinger shoulder, thin side facing spindle.
U-Joints: 5-760X (2ea)
Spindles: 706528X (2ea) 1973 – 1976 spindles. You have to use these because the inner surface is machined smooth, polished for seal kit. Mine was a 1/2 ton D44.
Bearings: Set-37 and Set 45 (each side)
Hub Seal: 422380 (each side)

[jeffahart]

I agree with KW, definitely check out the 1 ton option and see what kind of shape they're in. The one ton SRW will be a straight bolt in to your 3/4 ton. You should only need to weld in rear shock mounts and maybe a little more or less shim for pinion angle in rear. Plus it might already have a Detroit locker in it. Is the doner truck a diesel? if so pull the hydro boost and stick that in your truck too!

The 1970 d44 is a one year aardvark... first year open knuckle and last year for drum brakes.

j

[special-K]

My only comment on using the K/30 axles (both) is you will gain hiway manners that the rest of us K/20-K2500 guys will envy. Not a huge jump in ratio, but noticeable better on the hiway. And you will have a cool tough well-built truck.

I like that you want to keep it correct as built. If you go that route and can't find '70 axle shafts I'd consider pulling the shafts from a spare '70 Dana 44 K/20 axle I have.

I have a '72 K2500 with all original drivetrain. I had a couple K/20s and a SWB K/10, too. I have K/30 axles that were going under one of those and now I only have the K2500. The older it gets the more I feel I should keep it original, but I really want a 67-72 one ton 4wd. I would only swap the front axle and I have an HO52 w/No Spin for the rear. No decisions at this point, but I know I can always swap in the heavy axles and swap them back to original later. You could do the same and change the shock mount on the 14-bolt

[BILT4ME]

Originally Posted by D.PASSMORE

I upgraded my axles a few years ago: Parts list:
Finally got this completed, not a lot of info out there to ensure all the parts is on-hand to make the change over. It was rather easy, so here is the parts numbers and some explaining:
Dana Shafts:
Long: 27902X
Short: 27901X
Outer stub axle: 41677 (2ea)
Slinger: 36364 (2ea) – Pressed onto Outer Stub Axle
Seal Kit: 706527X (2ea) Dust seal rides on Slinger shoulder, thin side facing spindle.
U-Joints: 5-760X (2ea)
Spindles: 706528X (2ea) 1973 – 1976 spindles. You have to use these because the inner surface is machined smooth, polished for seal kit. Mine was a 1/2 ton D44.
Bearings: Set-37 and Set 45 (each side)
Hub Seal: 422380 (each side)

Do I understand correctly that you changed the spindles, seals, axle shafts, U-Joints and everything to upgrade to the heavier axles, effectively making the front just like a late 1972, but retained the original knuckle and drum brakes?

The one we have is the unicorn year.

I'm willing to research the part numbers to see if we can change some parts to upgrade, but it may be more cost effective in the long run to swap in the K30 axles and move on.

[57taskforce]

Put the K30 stuff in it and don’t look back. Hold onto the originals if you ever want to return to stock. That’s my suggestion. The 3:73’s will be a little better suited to the highway.

[BILT4ME]

Well, it's been a year now and we are not any further than we were.

We cut off the broken ears on the outer stub axles and put them back in. Placed a cover over the ends of the axle tubes and caulked them on. Been driving it as a 2WD the whole time.

Winter is coming, we need to get it back into 4WD.

Have not found a decent set of F/R axles and we're finding that the rear axle conversion to newer stuff is going to require a little fabrication due to spring perches and maybe shock mounts.

The complete axles we have found within 300 miles are extremely high mileage or broken or beat so much they need to be 100% rebuilt (R&P, the whole 9yd) The 1978 1 ton that we saw originally was gone within a day or two of this original post.

Thought we had a good line on one near Omaha, but he never responded.

Anyway, digging into more details with Torque King and Northern Driveline to see what we can find.

We've learned a lot on the way. I still think there's a solution, but it's going to involve more time.

[BILT4ME]

Originally Posted by D.PASSMORE

I upgraded my axles a few years ago: Parts list:
Finally got this completed, not a lot of info out there to ensure all the parts is on-hand to make the change over. It was rather easy, so here is the parts numbers and some explaining:
Dana Shafts:
Long: 27902X
Short: 27901X
Outer stub axle: 41677 (2ea)
Slinger: 36364 (2ea) – Pressed onto Outer Stub Axle
Seal Kit: 706527X (2ea) Dust seal rides on Slinger shoulder, thin side facing spindle.
U-Joints: 5-760X (2ea)
Spindles: 706528X (2ea) 1973 – 1976 spindles. You have to use these because the inner surface is machined smooth, polished for seal kit. Mine was a 1/2 ton D44.
Bearings: Set-37 and Set 45 (each side)
Hub Seal: 422380 (each side)

You mentioned yours was 1/2 Ton.

In your rework, are the axle shafts and parts the same as 3/4T or do you know?

Do have info on the part numbers used and what their original application is?

I'm going to dig into this with your approach and see if we can do it without having to do machining to something.

[special-K]

Not any help on the front, but did someone put that Detroit Locker in the rear Dana 60? I ask because the factory didn't offer that. Either that or it has the factory Power-Lok, which is a posi. That's what my '72 has from factory.

Do you still have the later 1t axle set? You could change the original Dana 60 rear to 3.73.

[D.PASSMORE]

Originally Posted by BILT4ME

You mentioned yours was 1/2 Ton.

In your rework, are the axle shafts and parts the same as 3/4T or do you know?

Do have info on the part numbers used and what their original application is?

I'm going to dig into this with your approach and see if we can do it without having to do machining to something.

Everything should match up with a w 3/4-ton dana 44 internally / I've worked on both, and the differences is the outer hub assemblies. You can purchase the new style wheel hubs off Ebay. Not sure of the part number.

I'm not sure what the differences with disc brake or drum applications for the axles, but a 1969/1972 Dana 44 were all basically the same. In late 72, dana upgraded the to a larger universal joint where the two axles join, thus requiring an axle swap and different seals on the backside of the wheel hub. that application continued until the Dana 44 was replaced with GM cooperate front ends i.e., 10 bolts, 12 bolts as usually referenced. BTW, GM cooperate could be swap into the truck too. But first I would scour the regional junk yards for parts. Again, do some research, a lot of different options.