1968 C10 Stepside Restoration Project

[68 C10 Driver]

Today I got a lot done, I did some wet sanding on the firewall in preparation for paint. I wanted to get this part done so I can begin attaching a few bits without worrying about removing them later. I think it turned out well.

[68 C10 Driver]

So today's project was to get the brake master cylinder and booster installed along with the clutch master cylinder and get that connected to the clutch pedal. Drilling was tight, but I was able to get the hole drilled for the bolt for the clevis that connects to the heim joint. All in all the hydraulic clutch system is working out really well.

All I need to do now is bench bleed the master cylinders and connect the proportioning valve, but that will come later.

[68 C10 Driver]

So last Sunday I started on the restoration of one of the steering wheels I acquired for the truck. There are a lot of good videos out there on YouTube, some individuals use a 3M epoxy type no-flow seam sealer, a two part tube type epoxy, or a two part epoxy putty to fill in cracks after they have been enlarged using a Dremel Tool and steering wheel thoroughly cleaned. Enlarging the cracks with the Dremel Tool cleans the crack out to give the epoxy better adhesion and allows it to get down into the steering wheel material completely without any air pockets forming.

After allowing the epoxy to set-up, the fun begins with the sanding...lots of sanding. That epoxy putty is HARD, which is good. I am also building out the base of the red El Camino steering wheel, that being the part that is closest to the steering column, so it will be the same diameter. Being that this steering wheel is essentially a car steering wheel, it is narrower than the truck's steering column. For this I am using "All Metal", a type of 'Bondo' like body putty that has aluminum in it that causes the material to be extremely hard and less prone to 'denting'. Being the steering wheel, I just wanted to ensure that it is less prone to any damage due to the proximity to the driver and due to the fact it is the item most handled by the driver.

Pictures to follow.

[68 C10 Driver]

So here are some pics of the work on the steering wheel:

[68 C10 Driver]

More photos after initial All Metal and regular bondo work. The red stuff is glazing putty.

[68 C10 Driver]

...and some sanding of the glazing putty. Being that it is only 49 degrees, I will have to wait for the temp to get warmer before I can prime and paint the steering wheel.

[68 C10 Driver]

After sanding again, put on another coat of primer:

[68 C10 Driver]

Hopefully tomorrow's weather forecast is accurate, supposed to be wound 63. That will give me another day I can prime, then Wednesday I can spray color and be done with the steering wheels first paint of white.

[68 C10 Driver]

Today was wet sand and paint day. I smoothed out everything with some 500 grit and applied the first color, the Old English White. I will get the light green painted on tomorrow. I also thought I would accent the chrome horn push by adding some green to the long depressed area to form a green stripe on either side.

[68 C10 Driver]

Here is that light green accent stripe.

[68 C10 Driver]

Steering wheel after second coat of Old English White and masking tape removed. I will spray the Light Green on Friday.

[Kronald_70GMC]

Looks sweet! Can't wait to see the green

[68 C10 Driver]

Looks like I will have to wait until Sunday to paint with all the rain in the forecast.

[68 C10 Driver]

Steering wheel is completed, looks like I got it perfect on the width and taper so it fits the steering column just right.

[72bowtiestepper]

Nice work..Looks Great !

[Steeveedee]

Wow, that came out nice!

[zicc1835]

outstanding.......

[68 C10 Driver]

Thanks! I appreciate it.

[68 C10 Driver]

Here are two photos showing how much the base of the steering wheel had to be enlarged so it would mate correctly to the steering column. I was unaware at the time I acquired the steering wheel that the Chevy car steering wheels were smaller than the truck steering wheels.

[68 C10 Driver]

I was curious how the carpet would look in the cab...just a few tweaks...

Not the best photos, I'll try again tomorrow when it is light out.

[68 C10 Driver]

Daylight photos...the carpet needs some time to 'relax' a bit.

[68 C10 Driver]

So I was fiddling with the carpet, got the drain for the under dash unit straightened out and decided to do a few other things, like trim the carpet where the dimmer comes through. Be sure to use a fresh blade to cut the carpet (helpful hint). That worked out great, added that surround that finishes off the carpet around the dimmer switch. Also installed the hoses to the defroster vents, that worked well. Hoses are tighter than I thought they would be, but got them. I also sealed the area around the wire for the A/C binary switch and grommet, it just wasn't tight enough for my liking. I also cut the carpet where the pivot balls for gas pedal come through.

[zicc1835]

Originally Posted by 68 C10 Driver

So I was fiddling with the carpet, got the drain for the under dash unit straightened out and decided to do a few other things, like trim the carpet where the dimmer comes through. Be sure to use a fresh blade to cut the carpet (helpful hint). That worked out great, added that surround that finishes off the carpet around the dimmer switch. Also installed the hoses to the defroster vents, that worked well. Hoses are tighter than I thought they would be, but got them. I also sealed the area around the wire for the A/C binary switch and grommet, it just wasn't tight enough for my liking. I also cut the carpet where the pivot balls for gas pedal come through.

sure is coming along nicely.......

[68 C10 Driver]

Originally Posted by zicc1835

sure is coming along nicely.......

Thanks!

[68 C10 Driver]

I got to use the beadlock crimper today to make one of the custom #6 refrigerant lines for the under dash A/C unit. Very easy to do and I will never have to worry about finding a replacement. I am waiting on the #10 hose to come in.