Anyone know where to find 14FF backing plates?

[HybridK]

Hey guys,
I'm running into an issue with discontinued parts. I've got a 78-ish stake-on drum (13") full floater and the backing plates rusted through. I've gotta get them replaced but no one that I've talked to stocks them, not even the stealership. Anyone know where I can find some? I'll take used stuff, as long as it works. Thanks boys

[low67chevy]

do a disc brake swap dude way cheaper its 100$ for the brackets then use 3/4 ton front rotors and calipers or buy 78-79 Cadillac Eldorado calipers that have the built in ebrake

[DirtyLarry]

You’re right, 13” backing plates are hard to come by outside of searching salvage yards, especially the early ones like you need where the brake cable uses two bolts to hold it into the backing plate. Personally, I don’t buy into the rear disk brake swaps. Contrary to popular forum belief, the Eldo/Toronado rear calipers didn’t work worth the hoot on Eldo/Toronado’s where the last place I would use them would be on a large 4x4. Using the GM truck front calipers are better than Eldo’s but they are still a bit small for a large truck plus you also lose the park brake. Nothing will stop a large truck better than good ole 13” rear drums, that is if you don’t mind the extra weight of drums. There are reasons why class 8 semi’s still use drum brakes today and not disks.

If you happen to have the later design backing plates where the cables just push in and held by tangs, UpTime Parts sells them. I believe these are brand new but could be reman. UpTime is a parts supplier to the fleet world where many fleets are still running 14 bolt FF with 13” rear brakes in delivery vans, etc. The backing plate is known as a “452” in the aftermarket parts business. You'll notice 452 is also part of the brake shoe part number. It is a Bendix identification number.

UpTime also sell a complete brake kit where the shoes and hardware are already mounted on the backing plate. All you need to do is bolt them on and hook up a brake line and park brake cable. Fleets love this brake kit.

Again, these are the later design plates with the round push in type brake cables. They may have the earlier type as well. Give them a call.

FRN452RK7
FRN452LK5

I went through this same ordeal a few months ago when I swapped on 13” brakes on my Suburban. Finally found a 14 FF bolt in the core pile at a local salvage yard that I was able to pirate them from. Luckily, we don’t use salt here so our junk is pretty rust free.

If your truck is an original '78 axle with 13's this is the backing plate you need where the park brake cable bolts in place. I don't have a picture of the round push in type brake cable backing plate. BTW, you cannot easily convert the bolt on brake cable to the round type easily without changing the entire brake cable assembly from the park brake foot lever all the way to the backing plates.

[76k10]

Originally Posted by DirtyLarry

You’re right, 13” backing plates are hard to come by outside of searching salvage yards, especially the early ones like you need where the brake cable uses two bolts to hold it into the backing plate. Personally, I don’t buy into the rear disk brake swaps. Contrary to popular forum belief, the Eldo/Toronado rear calipers didn’t work worth the hoot on Eldo/Toronado’s where the last place I would use them would be on a large 4x4. Using the GM truck front calipers are better than Eldo’s but they are still a bit small for a large truck plus you also lose the park brake. Nothing will stop a large truck better than good ole 13” rear drums, that is if you don’t mind the extra weight of drums. There are reasons why class 8 semi’s still use drum brakes today and not disks.

If you happen to have the later design backing plates where the cables just push in and held by tangs, UpTime Parts sells them. I believe these are brand new but could be reman. UpTime is a parts supplier to the fleet world where many fleets are still running 14 bolt FF with 13” rear brakes in delivery vans, etc. The backing plate is known as a “452” in the aftermarket parts business. You'll notice 452 is also part of the brake shoe part number. It is a Bendix identification number.

UpTime also sell a complete brake kit where the shoes and hardware are already mounted on the backing plate. All you need to do is bolt them on and hook up a brake line and park brake cable. Fleets love this brake kit.

Again, these are the later design plates with the round push in type brake cables. They may have the earlier type as well. Give them a call.

FRN452RK7
FRN452LK5

I went through this same ordeal a few months ago when I swapped on 13” brakes on my Suburban. Finally found a 14 FF bolt in the core pile at a local salvage yard that I was able to pirate them from. Luckily, we don’t use salt here so our junk is pretty rust free.

If your truck is an original '78 axle with 13's this is the backing plate you need where the park brake cable bolts in place. I don't have a picture of the round push in type brake cable backing plate. BTW, you cannot easily convert the bolt on brake cable to the round type easily without changing the entire brake cable assembly from the park brake foot lever all the way to the backing plates.

Interesting info Larry. The only thing that gets me about drum brakes is if you bury your axle in mud. The shoes tend to self destruct thereafter. Not the case with discs.

[DirtyLarry]

Originally Posted by 76k10

Interesting info Larry. The only thing that gets me about drum brakes is if you bury your axle in mud. The shoes tend to self destruct thereafter. Not the case with discs.

True to that! Drums don’t like routine runs in deep mud. Mud bogger rigs would be better suited for disks. On the other hand, if you want to STOP like an anchor was dropped out of the back of the truck I still stand by 13” rear drums. My ole K10 weights 8,000 lbs and the 13” rear drums stop that truck better than my ’02 Silverado HD with rear disk does empty not to mention the park brake on the K10 holds like having an auger drilled into the ground. Can't say that for any of the Silverado's I've owned.

[76k10]

Originally Posted by DirtyLarry

True to that! Drums don’t like routine runs in deep mud. Mud bogger rigs would be better suited for disks. On the other hand, if you want to STOP like an anchor was dropped out of the back of the truck I still stand by 13” rear drums. My ole K10 weights 8,000 lbs and the 13” rear drums stop that truck better than my ’02 Silverado HD with rear disk does empty not to mention the park brake on the K10 holds like having an auger drilled into the ground. Can't say that for any of the Silverado's I've owned.

That's why I would like to go with 1/2 ton front discs and calipers on my built 12 bolt using weld on brackets.

[dieseldawg142]

i'm with ya larry! old skool maybe but they work. with the camper & quad trailer on the crew i'm just under 14 thou & trailer has no brakes & we routinely ride around the Coquihalla hiway & Pennask summit( check it out) with no probs at all.

[DirtyLarry]

Originally Posted by dieseldawg142

i'm with ya larry! old skool maybe but they work. with the camper & quad trailer on the crew i'm just under 14 thou & trailer has no brakes & we routinely ride around the Coquihalla hiway & Pennask summit( check it out) with no probs at all.

I just saw an episode on TV about Coquihalla Highway where they were clearing snow. That is a crazy pass!

By the way, dieseldawgs photo shows the later design 13” backing plate with the round push-in style park brake cable. I believe the push in type cables started in 1984. I run the bolt on type park brake cable on my K10 and push in type on my Suburban. Other than the brake cable fastening method the backing plates are the same.

[csb#356]

First off I will say I like drum brakes too, they work plenty well for me. But there is no doubt that disc brakes are more powerful. You can get more stopping power with the clamping action of disc brakes than you can with the spreading action of drums, all day everyday. I had a teacher that explained it this way: He told us to fill a 5 gallon bucket with water and put your hands on the inside of the bucket, palms out to the sides and try and pick it up. (drum brakes) Then try and pick it up with your hands on the outside of the bucket (Disc brakes) and see which is easier. I don't think there is any doubt which would be easier. There are benefits of drum brakes though, They will last a lot longer because they have more lining surface area. That is why people that buy heavy trucks still order s cam drum brakes, there is less down time and flat rate is only a half an hour per wheel end. Also the initial cost is less than that of disc brakes. There is air disc brakes available though and they are catching on more and more, people are realizing that even though the initial cost is more for an air disc setup, the linings are much cheaper and you don't even have to take the caliper off to change them. Eaton and Kenworth put out a comparison test between s cam brakes and air disc brakes, the disc is hands down better. My 2 cents

[HybridK]

sooo junkyard? The disc conversion costs around $400 if you're getting those crap caddy calipers (calipers, rotors, brakets, cables, pads, lugs...). For that money I'd rather just find a newer 2500HD rear axle and slap it under mine. I was hoping that someone out there had an extra set they were willing to sell, but no dice so far. If anyone has a set I will make it worth it to part with them. I MISS MY TRUCK

[DirtyLarry]

Originally Posted by HybridK

sooo junkyard? The disc conversion costs around $400 if you're getting those crap caddy calipers (calipers, rotors, brakets, cables, pads, lugs...). For that money I'd rather just find a newer 2500HD rear axle and slap it under mine. I was hoping that someone out there had an extra set they were willing to sell, but no dice so far. If anyone has a set I will make it worth it to part with them. I MISS MY TRUCK

If you must have disks, getting a late model axle would be the way to go. At least the brake system was designed for a heavy truck and not a collection of less than sterling parts cobbled together to resemble rear disks. Check the classifieds on CK5 or Pirate4x4. There is no shortage sheeple copying each other’s build threads in doing the drum to Eldo disk brake swaps. You would think a lot of drum brake parts could be found from those guys.

csb#356,

If you look hard enough there can be a success story found for just about anything.

[Oilbrnr]

Apparently csb's teacher didn't take into account (or understand) the servo action of drums.

Also, the parking brakes on the late models are crap IMHO based on personal experience.

OP, there has to be someone out here on the forum that could help you out. Good luck!

[csb#356]

Originally Posted by Oilbrnr

Apparently csb's teacher didn't take into account (or understand) the servo action of drums.

He understands the servo action pretty well and that they are a self energizing brake. Was just providing info that I thought was useful on the topic being discussed earlier, not get you to buy disc brakes for your rear axle. Continue on with the thread and i appoligize if anyone was offended.

OP good luck in your search.

[andrewmp6]

The CUCV M1008 used a 14 bolt see if you can find them on a surplus site.

[HybridK]

Hey guys, thought I'd give you an update. I looked around everywhere, even went the CUCV route. The stuff I could fine was in about the same shape as mine was for the drum axles/backing plates. Gotta love the rust belt... I ended up getting a 10.5" out of a 2003 2500HD with 3.73s, discs and posi. I'll have to move the spring pads and put a different yoke on my driveshaft, but I'll have 2 piston rear calipers, 12" rear rotors and a drum style ebrake for $400 all told. Not a bad deal I guess. What a pain in the ass... Thanks everyone for your guidance and help. I'll post pics when the swap is done.

[yfs200p]

Originally Posted by DirtyLarry

You’re right, 13” backing plates are hard to come by outside of searching salvage yards, especially the early ones like you need where the brake cable uses two bolts to hold it into the backing plate. Personally, I don’t buy into the rear disk brake swaps. Contrary to popular forum belief, the Eldo/Toronado rear calipers didn’t work worth the hoot on Eldo/Toronado’s where the last place I would use them would be on a large 4x4. Using the GM truck front calipers are better than Eldo’s but they are still a bit small for a large truck plus you also lose the park brake. Nothing will stop a large truck better than good ole 13” rear drums, that is if you don’t mind the extra weight of drums. There are reasons why class 8 semi’s still use drum brakes today and not disks.

If you happen to have the later design backing plates where the cables just push in and held by tangs, UpTime Parts sells them. I believe these are brand new but could be reman. UpTime is a parts supplier to the fleet world where many fleets are still running 14 bolt FF with 13” rear brakes in delivery vans, etc. The backing plate is known as a “452” in the aftermarket parts business. You'll notice 452 is also part of the brake shoe part number. It is a Bendix identification number.

UpTime also sell a complete brake kit where the shoes and hardware are already mounted on the backing plate. All you need to do is bolt them on and hook up a brake line and park brake cable. Fleets love this brake kit.

Again, these are the later design plates with the round push in type brake cables. They may have the earlier type as well. Give them a call.

FRN452RK7
FRN452LK5

I went through this same ordeal a few months ago when I swapped on 13” brakes on my Suburban. Finally found a 14 FF bolt in the core pile at a local salvage yard that I was able to pirate them from. Luckily, we don’t use salt here so our junk is pretty rust free.

If your truck is an original '78 axle with 13's this is the backing plate you need where the park brake cable bolts in place. I don't have a picture of the round push in type brake cable backing plate. BTW, you cannot easily convert the bolt on brake cable to the round type easily without changing the entire brake cable assembly from the park brake foot lever all the way to the backing plates.

Hey Larry, I know this thread is as old as the hills but I have a question. I truly appreciate all the valuable info you’ve contributed here and other places.
Long story short, I’m helping a friend restore an 80ish K20 that someone in the 90’s morphodited into a “show” truck. It has a Ford rear axle in it that we decided to swap out for a late 80’s 14 bolt semi-float from a V20 suburban. (I know the 14 bolt SF isn’t top choice but it was available and GM). Since the backing plates were rotted, I ordered the new/reman loaded backing plates that you reference in the beginning of this thread. They arrived with 3.5” shoes and a slight recess in the backing plate, compared to the SF backing plate which is mostly flat with a 2.5” (I think?) shoe. It almost appears like the new ones would be correct for a DRW, but I could be wrong.
Question is, can I run the 13x3.5” brakes on a SF axle without any issues? I understand the drum will be more visible sticking out behind the wheel. And the truck currently has the push-in style e-brake, which in theory should be a bolt-in.
Thanks

[cadillac_al]

I hope Larry is still doing well. I think if those brakes will bolt to the axle then they should work. The SRW K20's and K 30's have the drums showing behind the wheels. That is not a problem.