47-59 radiator needed

[nvrdone]

In the process of doing up grades to my '49 I found that I have a fairly bad leak in my radiator. The stock radiator has been in for many years and has cooled the 327 very well. But now I'm looking for a replacement. I found KKS motorsports on ebay and theirs looked good at a fair price. But they seem to be out of business. So I'm looking for reccomendations. Any ideas? thanks.

[leegreen]

I have not used one so this is an idea, not a recommendation. I see aluminum radiators to fit starting at $230 on Jeggs those are my plan B if the one I have does not hold together.

[nvrdone]

Thanks, that's a place to start.

[mr48chev]

Champion was one of if not the first low buck aluminum radiator outfit around and has been around for a long time.

Years after buying the radiator I have I am seeing reviews about the company that aren't great so I am not going to recommend it at least until I have run it for a while.

Not inexpensive but made to order in Alabama are the Brice Thomas radiators who are part of the same company that owns US radiator.

https://cgj.com/product/gm-2007-alum...truck-radiator

US radiators has a batch of options to sort through. https://usradiator.com/radiator-find...uck&_year=1952

The only place in the area that recores radaitors now that I know of is Weber's on South third avenue. They are always swamped doing big truck and heavy equipment radiators though. Still there is no cost saving by having one recored anymore either.

[youngrodder]

I have had great luck with Champion radiators that I scored off of eBay. They worked very good in my last (2) builds. I running a 4 core of their's in my 53 Suburban. Great value for the buck IMHO.

Marc

[Chopped53]

I used a Champion radiator too. The price seemed like a bargain. Been running it for three years and 7,000 miles. So far, it's been great.

[hogfarm]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

Champion was one of if not the first low buck aluminum radiator outfit around and has been around for a long time.

Years after buying the radiator I have I am seeing reviews about the company that aren't great so I am not going to recommend it at least until I have run it for a while.

Not inexpensive but made to order in Alabama are the Brice Thomas radiators who are part of the same company that owns US radiator.

https://cgj.com/product/gm-2007-alum...truck-radiator

US radiators has a batch of options to sort through. https://usradiator.com/radiator-find...uck&_year=1952

The only place in the area that recores radaitors now that I know of is Weber's on South third avenue. They are always swamped doing big truck and heavy equipment radiators though. Still there is no cost saving by having one recored anymore either.

Mr48chevy, We have a place in The Dalles Oregon that will recore a radiator. He has the shop at his house out in a barn, it is an environmental disaster. there is probably 6" of lead solder all over the floor, but he does good work

[62c30]

I've used 4-5 champion radiators in several cars and trucks, they work good

[R&B51]

For my application, needed upgraded radiator to handle LS but still fit in radiator support, ended up spending more but American made and they were great to talk to. Not finished and running yet but I get confidence and great reviews on one I bought from:
Entropy Radiators
https://entropyrad.com/product-categ...hoC-mwQAvD_BwE
Might check them out as an option.
Posted via Mobile Device

[whitedog76]

Walton Fab lists aluminum U.S. Radiators for around $400 -450, if you go to the US Radiator sitem they're $500-600. The Copper/brass ones are twice the price.

[jweb]

I think the Champion radiator would be fine.

If you're looking for US made or doing an LS swap I have had good luck with Superior
https://www.wwwsuperiorradiator.com/...60_chevy_truck

[mr48chev]

Originally Posted by hogfarm

Mr48chevy, We have a place in The Dalles Oregon that will recore a radiator. He has the shop at his house out in a barn, it is an environmental disaster. there is probably 6" of lead solder all over the floor, but he does good work

I'll remember that. I've still got my old original 48 radiator that a friend recored with the core out of a 2 ton GMC years ago and two 1-1/2 ton Chevy radiators that look good but have been sitting around for years on end.

My radiator looks great except that the "Tig"? welding around the tank isn't what you think of as tig welded.

URL=https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w71/mr48chev/DSCN9382_(2).JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds][/URL]

Recent reviews say some folks have had radiators that had the welds crack. That may or may not be because of bad welds but until I have a few thousand miles on it I am not going to recommend this brand for while.

My only issue with the Champion is that I personally don't like the looks of the tanks. That may not be an issue for others.

Bad thing for AD radiators of any kind is that I have seen so many trucks with the support missing the top bar or missing the bracing in front or the fender to firewall braces missing that the flex on the front end sheet metal may be putting undue stress on the radiator.

[mick53]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

I'll remember that. I've still got my old original 48 radiator that a friend recored with the core out of a 2 ton GMC years ago and two 1-1/2 ton Chevy radiators that look good but have been sitting around for years on end.

My radiator looks great except that the "Tig"? welding around the tank isn't what you think of as tig welded.

URL=https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/w71/mr48chev/DSCN9382_(2).JPG?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds][/URL]

Recent reviews say some folks have had radiators that had the welds crack. That may or may not be because of bad welds but until I have a few thousand miles on it I am not going to recommend this brand for while.

My only issue with the Champion is that I personally don't like the looks of the tanks. That may not be an issue for others.

Bad thing for AD radiators of any kind is that I have seen so many trucks with the support missing the top bar or missing the bracing in front or the fender to firewall braces missing that the flex on the front end sheet metal may be putting undue stress on the radiator.

It kind of looks like a spool gun weld.

[mr48chev]

Originally Posted by mick53

It kind of looks like a spool gun weld.

I'm not arguing that in the least. I paid about 250 for it so I can't whine and I am thinking about painting it black anyhow. The whole build is supposed to look as if it was built around 1960 with a lot of finned aluminum on the engine that the block will be painted pretty close to the Stock AD truck gray When guys who don't know what they are looking at look at it I want them to be arguing if it is a 216,235 or a 261. The guys who know what they are looking at can just give a knowing sly grin and that's what it is all about.

[popeyestruck]

Not trying to steal this thread but will a stock radiator be enough running air conditioning in the Florida heat or should I upgrade?

[Rickysnickers]

I have a Champion radiator. The first one cracked, and it was replaced without question. I was truly impressed! Popeye, for you, for the cost of the AL radiators, I'd encourage you to one.

[mr48chev]

Originally Posted by popeyestruck

Not trying to steal this thread but will a stock radiator be enough running air conditioning in the Florida heat or should I upgrade?

It can do reasnably well if you have a good one. If you have a good 1-1/2 or 2 ton radiator it can handle it as it is half again as much radiator. Finding a good 70 or so year old radaitor is the real challenge plus they are only good for 4 lbs of pressure.

I've got two 1=1/2 ton radiators out in the shed but am not sure If I would be willing to trust either one of the pair on a road trip.

[layinrocker65]

I have a 4 core champion. Works great with my LSA with the heat exchanger in front of it. 10k miles without an issue

[nvrdone]

OK, so I had some free time and I called Champion radiator. Talked with them about the Champion ec5100 2row vs the American Eagle 2 row that they make. The difference is the champion has 3/4" tubes vs the A/E having 1" tubes. Both are comparable price. The A/E was recommended due to the fact that I may add A/C next year and that it gets fairly hot around here in the summer. They told me that the A/E cools better due to the larger tubes.
The only thing I dont like is the shape of the top tank.
Any one used an A/E or have any thoughts?
Thanks

[e015475]

I have the aluminum USRadiator in my GMC. Had the OE style tank and the workmanship was good. I ordered it with the inlet/outlet for an LS engine. Came with a port for the steam tube too.

Front side with a Vintage Air condenser and dryer.



Engine side with a 16" SPAL fan and a fiberglass shroud.

[leegreen]

It is not obvious to me why larger tubes would cool better than the smaller if that is the only difference. Is the core with 3/4 tubes thicker? Heavier? More fin surface area?

More smaller tubes will give more water-core contact area. And more fins will give more core-air contact area.

[mr48chev]

From other sources for aluminum radiators the wider tubes provide more surface area for tube to air contact. Plus more capacity than four rows of small tubes.

This from the outfit I got my radiator from. https://speedcooling.com/2-row-vs-3-row/

[leegreen]

silly me, I was thinking about round tubes. Probably distracted by the tankless computer radiator sitting on my desk. Need more shop time!