Clutch Chatter and Oil Leaks

[SacramentoJoe]

I'm going after a repair for clutch chatter and I think I should apply for the gunkiest engine award. Even after de-greasing and pressure washing, it seems as if I barely made a dent.

I got the flywheel off and I was going to pull the oil pan and start replacing gaskets.

Can I slide the oil pan out without jacking the engine or will it still hit the front crossmember? I already have the rear mounts removed, I was concerned about pulling the front mounts since, I will need to support the engine on a jack.

[MySons68C20]

I replaced a rear main seal 40+ years ago on my old 68 with a 307 without having to iirc.

[samert111]

You may have to rotate the crankshaft some to position the crankshaft counter balance weights on the front cylinders out of the way to give the front of the oil pan lip enough room to clear them.

[72SB]

IIRC when crank is turned to #6 TDC the cheeks are in their highest position. IDK though if there is enough clearance to get pan off without raising engine a few inches though

[SacramentoJoe]

It fell right out. There seemed to be plenty of clearance.

Still got a lot to clean-up. I almost need a chisel to get through some of this stuff.

Hopefully I can get some paint to stick.

[geezer#99]

Get a wire wheel for your drill.
And use a safety shield if you do.


https://www.ebay.ca/itm/134501605121

[72c20customcamper]

Originally Posted by SacramentoJoe

It fell right out. There seemed to be plenty of clearance.

Still got a lot to clean-up. I almost need a chisel to get through some of this stuff.

Hopefully I can get some paint to stick.

I used Ezoff oven cleaner the old stuff not the new nice smelling stuff . If you leave it on long enough the paint comes off too .

Degrease it enough the paint will stick .

[SacramentoJoe]

I got the crankshaft rear oil seal out. I have never done it before. I was always scared to unbolt the bearing cap. I had trouble getting the seal to push out. My son gave me some needle nose pliers and said to try to wiggle it, and that did the job.

[SacramentoJoe]

I think I spent more time cleaning parts than I spent wrenching.

Now, I just need to get the transmission pilot bushing out so I can put things back together. I remember last time, I packed it with grease and hit it with a rod, but I can't find any tool. It seemed like it was something common. Any ideas?

[geezer#99]

Wood dowel works.

[Ironangel]

Originally Posted by SacramentoJoe

I think I spent more time cleaning parts than I spent wrenching.

Now, I just need to get the transmission pilot bushing out so I can put things back together. I remember last time, I packed it with grease and hit it with a rod, but I can't find any tool. It seemed like it was something common. Any ideas?

Might try this method of using a bolt and a nut with a screwdriver. https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q...tail&FORM=VIRE A Dremel or a die grinder can be used to cut the bushing. Sometimes a slide hammer with a hook will pull them.

[RustyPile]

I always use my Lisle clutch alignment tool.. Fill the bearing with grease and tap it out.. I put a washer under the pilot "plug" and use the tool to drive the new bearing in place.

https://www.lislecorp.com/specialty-...alignment-tool

[HalfBrit]

If you happen to have a slide hammer, this works well.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/o...RoCQkIQAvD_BwE

[samert111]

Originally Posted by SacramentoJoe

I got the crankshaft rear oil seal out. I have never done it before. I was always scared to unbolt the bearing cap. I had trouble getting the seal to push out. My son gave me some needle nose pliers and said to try to wiggle it, and that did the job.

That bearing looks like its worn into the copper base material.
Might as well change the bearings while your into it this far.

[72SB]

Autozone Loan-a-Tool has a Blind Hole puller. #27128 Very easy to use to remove pilot bushing. Use a short piece of wood closed dowel to pond in new one.

[SacramentoJoe]

Originally Posted by samert111

That bearing looks like its worn into the copper base material.
Might as well change the bearings while your into it this far.

Yeah, that's why I posted that picture. I really scared of trying to replace the bearing. The bottom end has around 150k miles since it was rebuilt. I want another 50k

The deeper I dig......

The harder it is to see the bottom.

.

[samert111]

Originally Posted by SacramentoJoe

Yeah, that's why I posted that picture. I really scared of trying to replace the bearing. The bottom end has around 150k miles since it was rebuilt. I want another 50k

The deeper I dig......

The harder it is to see the bottom.

.

It's easy, just like the upper part of the seal. Use something like a thin plastic scraper to tap on the side without the retaining tang and rotate them out. If they are standard bearings they should have it stamped on the back side of the bearing insert and buy the same thing. Lube up the wear surface on the new bearings with some engine assy lube and rotate the new upper in place until the ends are flush with the mounting surface and the bearing cap will seat them in place when you torque the cap bolts down. Just make sure you start the end without the retaining tang first. The hardest one will be that rear one you already have off since it's the thrust bearing.

[Steeveedee]

I've done this by loosening the main cap bolts first to give a better path for the shell to roll out. Be prepared to get lots of oil on you and your clothes...

[SacramentoJoe]

I decided to put everything back together without replacing the bearing. But didn't get very far as I just broke the cap bolt when while torqueing it down.

Sigh...

.

[Steeveedee]

Bummer! Take the other cap bolt out and see if enough bolt is sticking out to where you can turn it with needle-nose pliers, or something. What were you torquing it to?

[SacramentoJoe]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

Bummer! Take the other cap bolt out and see if enough bolt is sticking out to where you can turn it with needle-nose pliers, or something. What were you torquing it to?

My book says 115. I was at around 100 ft-lb, but it felt like more than than that. I am going to calibrate my wrench.

[SacramentoJoe]

It was buried in the block but I was able to get the other half of the blot to bite back into it and ease it out.

[Steeveedee]

^Niiice! One thing to note about torquing fasteners. The face of the bolt/nut should be dry for development of proper torque. Threads at the factory were solvent-wetted, and there was no lube between the bolt/nut and their faying surfaces. I know people who lube those faces, but the tension on the bolts is WAY more than spec when that is done.

[SacramentoJoe]

Anyone know where I can find a replacement bolt?

[Steeveedee]

I'm drawing a blank on the grade of those bolts. How many marks are on the head? You may be able to find one at your local hardware store.