1994 Sanden compressor swap

[Richard]

My stock compressor was good for 26 years. One Oreilly rebuild was DOA,
clutch failed on second after a month, got refund Purchased OEM Delco R4 replacement compressor, only lasted two years before front seal failed. I wanted a better option. The Sanden swap. 7 piston Sanden 508, Dirty Dingo swap brackets and their R4 manifold head. Compressor bolted in with no problems. Purchased new lines. The high pressure line was a few inches to short to reach condenser due to the increased length of new compressor. Cut new and old lines and used a repair fitting good to 600 psi to lengthen the high pressure line. A new belt 3" longer was needed. Pressurized system with dry nitrogen before truck went off to trans shop several weeks ago. When it came back, pressure held. Hooked up compressor wires and jumped out the high pressure cut out that was located in the old R4. Will address high cut out later. Pulled vacuum and charged with the stock 2 lbs. of R134a using my digital scale. New compressor displacement is real close the R4 so I did not see a need to adjust the charge. System works great and is real quiet compared the R4. Hope this compressor is more reliable than current options. I do have to address the heat riser pipe as well. A pressure switch makes the connection difficult. The heat riser is required for smog here in California.
First pic is stock R4

[Jeepwm69]

So even with the head for the sanden, the factory lines still had to be modified...

Wonder if lines from a different year OBS truck (like maybe a 96-98) would work without a splice? Guessing that fitting is flared fittings, which is what all of the connections are on my old Jeep CJ A/C lines?

Have a link to the fitting you used to splice the lines together? Unfortunately, nowhere around here makes custom A/C lines anymore.....

Thanks for the write-up!

[Jeepwm69]

Copying your links from your other thread.


on Amazon from Dirty Dingo. Compressor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019P6GZIU...roduct_details
Head https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071LGCHWX...roduct_details
Brackets direct from Dirty Dingo https://www.dirtydingo.com/shop/prod...oducts_id=1622
Orifice and accumulator also available on Amazon. but may just pick up at local parts chain.
Still have to run and get a new jug of 134a from my local HVAC supplier. For just a bit more than parts store refrigerent to do my 94 and 72 trucks I can get 30lbs.
Compressor on Dirty Dingo website has additional shipping charges https://www.dirtydingo.com/shop/prod...oducts_id=1675
Head on Dirty Dingo website https://www.dirtydingo.com/shop/adva...B-R4&x=24&y=10

[Richard]

Originally Posted by Jeepwm69

So even with the head for the sanden, the factory lines still had to be modified...

Wonder if lines from a different year OBS truck (like maybe a 96-98) would work without a splice? Guessing that fitting is flared fittings, which is what all of the connections are on my old Jeep CJ A/C lines?

Have a link to the fitting you used to splice the lines together? Unfortunately, nowhere around here makes custom A/C lines anymore.....

Thanks for the write-up!

Thank you for posting that other information. Yes, disappointed the high pressure line to condenser was to short. Was hoping it would reach but knew it may be a problem. The coupler I used for the 1/2" od line https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CZ95FNQ...roduct_details Most I found are more than double this price. I cut my existing line just before 22/30 degree bend and the new line right before the 90 degree bend. Provided over 4" of added length. Using A/C everyday now and love it! I have a small tube cutter like this from my A/C tool arsenal that allowed me to cut existing tube without removal https://www.amazon.com/Tubing-Cutter...sr=1-2-catcorr
I saw a 90 degree adapter for 1/4" flare fittings a while back that may solve my heat riser tube problem. I seem to have misplaced the link.
Another thing I did not mention is the lines on the hose manifold need to be massaged a bit as they are tight to the valve cover. I did not see it as a big deal.

[Jeepwm69]

I have a tubing cutter, so that part is easy. No CA emissions here to deal with either, so wouldn't have the problem with the riser.

Think I'll get some stuff ordered and give it a shot. Thanks very much for sharing what you did!

[Jeepwm69]

Happen to know the part number for the belt?

[Jeepwm69]

Looks like all those links no longer work.

Is this the compressor you used?

https://www.dirtydingo.com/shop/prod...oducts_id=1675

I know this is the head.

https://www.dirtydingo.com/shop/prod...oducts_id=1610

and these are the adapter brackets.

https://www.dirtydingo.com/shop/prod...oducts_id=1622

[Richard]

Odd that the links changed
Compressor on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019P6GZIU...roduct_details
Head on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071LGCHWX...roduct_details
Still shows free shipping if prime member, cannot find the brackets on Amazon.
My belt before the swap was already longer than stock because of the alternator swap and may not be correct for you. If you can get part number off of the belt installed can tell you what is needed if the parts store person cannot.
Note that if the heat riser tube is not connected, the flap in the air cleaner snorkel will stay closed. Needs to be open for fresh air inlet to engine.

[Basicfish]

I just bough the R4 to Sanden swap brackets directly from Dirty Dingo.
$48.99 with free shipping!

https://www.dirtydingo.com/shop/prod...oducts_id=1622

[Richard]

Originally Posted by Basicfish

I just bough the R4 to Sanden swap brackets directly from Dirty Dingo.
$48.99 with free shipping!

https://www.dirtydingo.com/shop/prod...oducts_id=1622

Great that you got it direct with free shipping. Still enjoying my revived A/C system everyday.

[Jeepwm69]

Originally Posted by Richard

Great that you got it direct with free shipping. Still enjoying my revived A/C system everyday.

Got my brackets on the way too. Going to order the compressor and head now.

[Jeepwm69]

Got my compressor and head in a couple of days ago.

Now I just need to get a dryer, orafice tube, and lines (maybe) ordered.

I'm thinking about making my own line to avoid using that splice. I have a couple of old Jeep CJ's and have AC systems to go on them, so making hoses is probably something I'll have to end up doing there, so buying a crimper and making my own makes sense.

Did you use PAG oil, ester oil, or ? This truck is a 95, R134a from the factory, so PAG should be what's in there right?

Of course, if I end up making my own lines, I wouldn't really need that R4 to Sanden head. I'll have to look at all of it and figure out which way I want to go with it.

[pjmoreland]

What did you end up doing to address the heat riser issue?

Are you still running without a high pressure switch?

[jjzepplin]

I have a 94 serpentine system on my 70. I did the Sanden swap as well. I used a Continental belt. I have not connected the unit yet but it looks like it will work fine. I plan on making my own hoses.