Making Keys For The ’60 -‘66 Chevy Trucks

[dmb]

I worked at a chevy dealer back in the early 70s, we had a large number of keys on a wire ring. If we lost any of the older keys , we would try them until one worked. I never remember not finding one that one of those keys wouldnt fit. We to had a curtis key cutter
Man I would love to have that key ring now
David in Virginia

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by dmb

I worked at a chevy dealer back in the early 70s, we had a large number of keys on a wire ring. If we lost any of the older keys , we would try them until one worked. I never remember not finding one that one of those keys wouldnt fit. We to had a curtis key cutter
Man I would love to have that key ring now
David in Virginia

Sorry about the delay in responding to your post. I didn't get a notification on it.

That would be the 64 key tryout set. I have a couple of sets of them that I still use. I find a lock once in a while that they won't work on, then I have to get out all of my old cut keys that I have collected and try them until I find the correct one.

LockDoc
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[Alloyvert]

PM inbound as I need my door lock redone to match my ignition and glove box.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by Alloyvert

PM inbound as I need my door lock redone to match my ignition and glove box.

PM received and replied to.....

LockDoc

[ironman3452]

Originally Posted by Lowl!f3

thank you. wish i seen this before the locksmith destroy my ignition switch and still charged me $90

not much of a locksmith if he destroyed ignition, also door lock is the same as the ignition, at least it was on my 64

[ironman3452]

Originally Posted by Alloyvert

PM inbound as I need my door lock redone to match my ignition and glove box.

I might be wrong, but ignition and glove box keys are diffrent, they are on my 64 panel

[Alloyvert]

Originally Posted by ironman3452

I might be wrong, but ignition and glove box keys are diffrent, they are on my 64 panel

Mine were matched. Also from what I have read, I thought these trucks only came with driver door locks. I did not realize mine had them on both doors until I pulled the drivers for Leon to do the rekey.

Leon - thanks again as I appreciate the help with getting these door locks redone and including new o-rings was a nice surprise!!

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by Alloyvert

Mine were matched. Also from what I have read, I thought these trucks only came with driver door locks. I did not realize mine had them on both doors until I pulled the drivers for Leon to do the rekey.

Leon - thanks again as I appreciate the help with getting these door locks redone and including new o-rings was a nice surprise!!

Glad you are happy with them.

LockDoc

[natrugg]

Does the ignition have the same code to identify it?

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by natrugg

Does the ignition have the same code to identify it?

Usually, yes. It would be stamped on the side of the ignition cylinder. The cylinder would have to be removed from the switch to see it.
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[Ol Blue K20]

I have a set of those keys. They come in handy sometimes.

[dmjlambert]

Hi Leon, I would like to ask you to cut me keys for my door please, and I'll be hoping it works in the ignition. I'll send you a PM.

[dmjlambert]

Thanks for the keys, Leon, they worked. I was able to remove the ignition cylinder. I have a couple of questions please. Here is the ignition cylinder. It looks fine to me. It was a little bit difficult to have it turn reliably each time I inserted the key, but I suspect after I do some cleaning it will be better. My question: is it normal on a 63 for the key to be able to pull out in any position? If it is supposed to come out only in the off position, is there something to look at to find the reason it can be pulled out in any position?

[dmjlambert]

More pics. Is it advisable to get a special tool to turn that outer ring if I need to tighten it? It's loose.

[dmjlambert]

Another question, this time regarding door lock. It looks like it's in pretty good shape, but doesn't work. The problem seems to be a tiny bit of metal has broken off and I'm thinking that is where the metal was swaged to hold down the little cover the springs are under. If that cover were down and stayed down the lock would work. Do you advise replacing the cylinder or JB welding it in that little spot, or something else?

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by dmjlambert

Thanks for the keys, Leon, they worked. I was able to remove the ignition cylinder. I have a couple of questions please. Here is the ignition cylinder. It looks fine to me. It was a little bit difficult to have it turn reliably each time I inserted the key, but I suspect after I do some cleaning it will be better. My question: is it normal on a 63 for the key to be able to pull out in any position? If it is supposed to come out only in the off position, is there something to look at to find the reason it can be pulled out in any position?

I can't get a good look at the tumbler/spring cover on the ignition cylinder but it looks like it might be up a little on one end. If the covers are loose and you insert the key the pressure on the tumblers and springs will push the cover up far enough that it will keep the cylinder from turning. That might also contribute to being able to remove the key in any position.

Originally Posted by dmjlambert

More pics. Is it advisable to get a special tool to turn that outer ring if I need to tighten it? It's loose.

They are pretty hard to tighten up without a special tool. I made one for the '67-'72 trucks but the notches are internal instead of external so that makes it easier.

Originally Posted by dmjlambert

Another question, this time regarding door lock. It looks like it's in pretty good shape, but doesn't work. The problem seems to be a tiny bit of metal has broken off and I'm thinking that is where the metal was swaged to hold down the little cover the springs are under. If that cover were down and stayed down the lock would work. Do you advise replacing the cylinder or JB welding it in that little spot, or something else?

I have re-staked the covers on a lot of cylinders. Basically it has to be done every time I change the tumblers to re-key a lock. If you grind down a small punch so it fits into the existing staking marks you can re-stake them with that. Just be sure and hold the cover down all the way while you are staking it. It is easier to do with 2 people.

I will see if I can take a picture of my staking punch in the morning.
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[LockDoc]

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Here is a picture of the staking tool I made. The working end dimensions are .030 x .085. It has to fit into the original factory staking indentations and the lock cylinder will have to be on something solid..

I also forgot to mention that tumblers in the lock cylinder that are badly worn will allow the key to be removed in any position.
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[dmjlambert]

Thanks. I started my own thread about it so I wouldn't have to make your thread about more than getting the keys.