69 shop truck

[richard2717]

I am normally over on the blazer/suburban side but today I went and picked up a 69 C10 lwb. Plan is to get the brakes a little better, get the carb & possibly distributor swapped out and drive it like it is. It has its share of rust but will likely stay that way. The spid has me scratching my head a little bit I suppose over 55 years something was bound to be changed out but I dont see evidence of it. The last item on the spid is Z62 Cust comfort which I thought wa stilt wheel. Issue is the truck is 3spd on the column. I checked to make sure the spid matched the vin (it does) and that the vin has correct rivets (it does). The bracket on the frame that holds the clutch Z bar has factory style rivets holding it on as well. I have never seen the vin printed out like that on the spid though other than on a 67 I had at one time.

The other question I have is the paint code is 544 bc of the 2 tone. Is the red actually 514?

Hoping over the next couple of weeks to get it running right. Hit the key and it fires right up and will idle all day long but as soon as you give it gas it wants to cut out.

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[special-K]

Richard, the Z62 means it's a Custom trim level through '70, then Custom Deluxe. looks like a decent one to drive. Does it still have the 307 in it?

[richard2717]

yea 307 is still there but it is in a different position from stock

[Chevys4life]

Nice 69 score for our area. They all have rust on this side.

[richard2717]

Originally Posted by Chevys4life

Nice 69 score for our area. They all have rust on this side.

Don't let the pictures deceive you. This girl got plenty of issues but she photographs well with filters. 100 footer for sure. There are a couple spots on the DS floor that I am going to fix, one rear wheel arch and a spot above the windshield while I have that out for replacement. My whole purpose for getting this one was to get me motivated to finish my blazer by being able to actually drive one of them.

[PowerdbyChevy79]

Originally Posted by richard2717

I am normally over on the blazer/suburban side but today I went and picked up a 69 C10 lwb. Plan is to get the brakes a little better, get the carb & possibly distributor swapped out and drive it like it is. It has its share of rust but will likely stay that way. The spid has me scratching my head a little bit I suppose over 55 years something was bound to be changed out but I dont see evidence of it. The last item on the spid is Z62 Cust comfort which I thought wa stilt wheel. Issue is the truck is 3spd on the column. I checked to make sure the spid matched the vin (it does) and that the vin has correct rivets (it does). The bracket on the frame that holds the clutch Z bar has factory style rivets holding it on as well. I have never seen the vin printed out like that on the spid though other than on a 67 I had at one time.

The other question I have is the paint code is 544 bc of the 2 tone. Is the red actually 514?

Hoping over the next couple of weeks to get it running right. Hit the key and it fires right up and will idle all day long but as soon as you give it gas it wants to cut out.

.

Nice truck...

[richard2717]

Just ran the numbers on the engines. The one in the back bed is a 69 307 so I would say it was original to the truck. The one installed is a 71 307. Have a guy coming over later to help me with the engine. The guy I bought it from (80 years old) had this used motor put in and they could not get it to run right and he thinks it has a low end knock. The way he described it to me sounded more like a lifter rapping but with my hearing loss it is hard for me to tell. I put my hand on the drivers side valve cover and I could actually feel it knocking at idle and it felt like it was in the valve cover. Passenger side I did not feel any knocking or tapping. I just pulled the valve cover a few minutes ago and #3 cylinder rocker closest to the front I could feel that one tapping. All others felt good. Grabbed a 5/8 and put almost a 1/4 turn on the nut and it quit the knocking I was feeling. Not sure if that was the issue that he was hearing so that is why I am having a fellow stop by to see if he can hear anything else going on. I am hoping that took care of the issue and not dealing with a wiped lifter or cam or even worse, bottom end. Certainly not looking to spend a bunch of money on the 307 even though I have had several decent ones over the years. If this one needs internal work I will just pull it and swap in a 350 4 bolt I have sitting here that I pulled from a 71 GMC 1500. It has a 350 turbo behind it but I will keep the 3ott in place. It is supposed to have a new clutch kit in it now and the column shifter is nice and tight for once. Once I make sure there is no other knocking going on then I will work on getting the stumble out of it on acceleration. Fixed some oddball stuff on it as well that has no bearing in being able to drive it, but made me feel better

[Chevys4life]

Originally Posted by richard2717

Don't let the pictures deceive you. This girl got plenty of issues but she photographs well with filters. 100 footer for sure. There are a couple spots on the DS floor that I am going to fix, one rear wheel arch and a spot above the windshield while I have that out for replacement. My whole purpose for getting this one was to get me motivated to finish my blazer by being able to actually drive one of them.

Well I hope the motivation helps you to get your Blazer completed Richard.

[richard2717]

boy what a difference new rubber hoses on the fuel lines make. I can't believe that whoever put the replacement engine in, did not see how cracked the hose was from the fuel pump to the frame line. Replaced that then checked the one from the tank to the frame and it was just as bad. I still need to get the timing dialed in but at least it will stay running now. Debating getting a new 2bbl carb from Rock Auto. The choke assembly is effed up and it is weeping gas in a few spots. Pulled the seat out to check the tank sock only to find out there was not one on the lift pipe at all. I had a new assembly sitting here so I just replaced the entire pc.





I also pulled the old carpet out so i can repair the outer floor section on the drivers side. Passenger side is good.





I ordered a few things from Rock Auto including a carb to intake gasket since the original fell apart. I am not sure who packed it but it appears to be a little big. At least they fit the truck They are sending out the gasket and told me to keep these.

[Getter-Done]

Originally Posted by richard2717

I ordered a few things from Rock Auto including a carb to intake gasket since the original fell apart. I am not sure who packed it but it appears to be a little big. At least they fit the truck They are sending out the gasket and told me to keep these.

Yeah those gaskets are Way too Big for a 2 barrel.

[special-K]

That hose looks fine to me. It's only cracked on the outside. Just don't bend it that much. Pretty fuel line is for show trucks anyway

[richard2717]

Originally Posted by special-K

That hose looks fine to me. It's only cracked on the outside. Just don't bend it that much. Pretty fuel line is for show trucks anyway

Tim it was the reason truck would not stay running. Had several cracks pulling air in and was seeping gas out when shut off. Truck still runs like crap but at least will idle now without cutting off. Waiting on a couple of engine parts to arrive so working on sheet metal today.

Cut drivers rocker out and cut the rust out of the outer floor. Just by chance I had a partial floor left from a 70 cab I cut up a while back that worked out pretty good for the patch. Still have to add inner rocker metal to it before I trim and weld it all in but everything is fitting pretty good so far. Hope to have it all welded in by end of the day. it is close enough to the right color I won't even have to paint it

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[richard2717]

trimmed it up and got it welded in. tomorrow will temporarily put the outer rocker in place so I can get measurements for the metal I need to bend up to weld the inner rocker to the floor area I just put in today. Will take the outer rocker off while welding that in.


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[notsolo]

Looking good Richard, nice to have color match sheet metal. I have a couple left over Rochester 2bbl carbs if decide to go that way.

[richard2717]

Originally Posted by notsolo

Looking good Richard, nice to have color match sheet metal. I have a couple left over Rochester 2bbl carbs if decide to go that way.

Thanks Ed. The more I work with this 307 the more I think it might be a wiped cam and lifter so not sure how much further I will dive into it. My panel truck has a good 350 in it so I might end up swapping them around. As soon as my new oil & filter gets here I am going to drain the oil in the 307 and look for metal shavings then go from there. Will keep you in mind on the carb if it ends up being something simple. The carb on this 307 was loose as a goose and leaking so i pulled the one off of my Blazer 307. That motor has not been started in several years and there are several differences from 69 to the 72 carb, but I made it work good enough to get back running for now. I am guessing the gaskets are dried out on it bc it is starting to seep around all of the shafts.

[richard2717]

Made some more progress yesterday with the floor. Had some 16ga steel here so made up an inner rocker pc using the blazer floor as a pattern. Also ended up cutting the front floor support off and will replace with a new one. after that I am going to replace the lower section of the cab corner and call it done. Passenger side will only need an outer rocker hopefully. That is all I can see at the moment anyway.

[special-K]

Originally Posted by richard2717

Tim it was the reason truck would not stay running. Had several cracks pulling air in and was seeping gas out when shut off.

What are you, rich? That's what RTV's for

[richard2717]

Originally Posted by special-K

What are you, rich? That's what RTV's for

RTV for rich people in my hood. I just went over to the neighbors truck

strange he texted me this morning and asked if I could take a look at his truck tonight. said it wont start and smells like gas. A service call if I ever saw one.

[richard2717]

I feel like I am living a sham wow commercial. Got this rust fixed.... but wait, there is more..... what do they say ... well while I am there ....might as well. back of floor on both sides looked ok until I discovered it was just fiberglassed glossy paint. Cut, fab & install. Got some cab supports coming from GMC Pauls, hoping maybe to get them before the weekend if not will move on to something else. They wanted $65 per side for the rear floor section so I just fabbed what I needed out of 16ga. like the inner rocker. Trying to still not dump a lot of money in it and already had the sheet steel. Will need to splice in the bottom 3" of the cab corner as well.


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[dagnabbitt]

You make it look simple, but that is some great fab work.

Wondering if you plan to seal up the corner entirely? Will you weld that new patch in against the cab corner, seam seal it, or...?

[richard2717]

Originally Posted by dagnabbitt

You make it look simple, but that is some great fab work.

Wondering if you plan to seal up the corner entirely? Will you weld that new patch in against the cab corner, seam seal it, or...?

I am not sure how factory did it, but once I get the cab corner repaired I will be sealing it all up. I am not really sure how it closed up originally or if it even did, but I plan to close it all off. It took 2 tries to get the metal laid out correct enough that it would work. Going to reverse the pattern and bend it opposite for the passenger side.

I have a gallon of SPI epoxy here so once I get it all fitted and welded I plan to spray a coat on the entire floor. The underside has really hard undercoating on everything other than what was rusted out. I plan to leave all of that and just spot in the epoxy on the raw metal then probably just recoat the undercoating.

[Rust_never_sleeps]

You are correct, 544 is "Crimson Red Conventional Two-Tone", which includes 521 Frost White
514 is Crimson Red

https://www.cjponyparts.com/resource...hevy-rpo-codes

[richard2717]

Originally Posted by Rust_never_sleeps

You are correct, 544 is "Crimson Red Conventional Two-Tone", which includes 521 Frost White
514 is Crimson Red

https://www.cjponyparts.com/resource...hevy-rpo-codes

Thanks for the link. I had it saved at one time but that computer crashed and lost it all. Could not remember where I found it.


Got a little more welding done on the patch got tired of that so switched gears for a little bit. The heater control was all jacked up and broken due to a frozen cable. Grabbed a spare off the shelf as well as 3 other control heads so I could make one good one. cleaned it up and installed new fan switch on it and got it put back in.


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[special-K]

Originally Posted by richard2717

I feel like I am living a sham wow commercial. Got this rust fixed.... but wait, there is more.....

Just don't let any hookers punch you out!

You're hittin' it hard now. Looking good

Went to neighbor's

[richard2717]

drained the oil and checked for metal shavings and did not find any in the pan or filter so that makes me a little happier.

Hoping my parts get here from GMC Pauls this week so I can finish up the metal work, Epoxy everything, spray it back 514 red and get the gas tank back in it. I am mixing up some of my urethane Matthews paint that I use for signs to match the 514 hopefully. The chip matches pretty good from what I can tell. Only downfall is my matthews system is satin and not gloss. I would have to spray a gloss clear on it if I wanted it shiny. It is going to have the rubber floor mat on top of it so i am not going to worry about it, just want some protection on it. Pretty sure it will outlast me even though we are the same age.