Door Hinge Stop / Check Pads

[Rich72C10]

Hi guys -

So I bought theses Door Hinge Stops from classicparts.com without really thinking this through. I had just replaced my daughter's door check on her '07 Toyota and thought, "That was easy, I should do this to my C10 driver's door".

Can this be done without removing the hinge from the door and frame? Anyone even tried this kind of replacement without hinge removal?

I see that split/roll pin that keeps that door check arm into the hinge... perhaps I could get that out but I've read that thing is a challenge to get out and perhaps impossible with the hinge on the door?

I have a feeling these pads are going to go into my "maybe I'll install them" one day box...

Edit: To ease up reading a ton of posts after I completed this job, the below information is after a number of posts. So I thought to edit this information into my 1st post. Though fill free to read the whole thread/posts if you like ;-)

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
I neglected to look at the faq, there is a post in there too:
67-72 Door: Friction Pads by Zonaman
There is another post that is very good that talks about rebuilding hinges:
Re: It’s Just A Pickup (Post 120) by Bruce88
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Very straight forward - the whole process is pretty easy - once you have it done and look back. Assuming your pin isn't seized or bent, it should take about an hour.

1. Pre-spray pin, I used Free-All. It actually sat for a few days soaking.
2. Use something like a TEKTON 3/16 Inch Roll Pin Punch #66066 and hammer it out from the top. I found trying from the bottom a real PITA.
3. Use something like a TEKTON 5/32 Inch Roll Pin Punch #66065 to get the above punch out.
4. Remove inner door skin, if you haven't a Window And Door Handle Removal Tool you better get one - I've had one since I was a kid.
5. Reach into the door to catch the wedge has you push it into the door cavity
6. Remove old pads.
7. Install new pads. The bottom will set into its notches, the top pad you need to hold it up into the notches or it can fall out into the door (which sucks if it does).
8. Push wedge from inside of the door cavity in-between the new pads and put pin back in.
9. Put inner door skin back on, job done!

I wasn't able to push the wedge very far by hand but I was able to get it far enough to use my 5/32 Inch Roll Pin Punch to mount it, then open the door, which pulled the wedge through the new pads. Using the 5/32 Inch Roll Pin Punch also lined everything up for the split pin. Then I hammered in my original split pin in with the 3/16 Inch Roll Pin Punch. I didn't use a heavy hammer, just a simple claw hammer.

Oh, you may want to use a lot of Blue Tape anywhere/everywhere you think your hammer could hit if you miss or slip off the punch...

I hope the above made sense, if not happy to follow on any questions.

[cj847]

It's been a long time since i've done it, but I didn't remove the door. I think I removed the roll pin (probably drilled the rusty sucker out and used the next larger size as a replacement) and removed the check from inside the door. Then reassembled everything.

So, what should be a 30 min job turns into about 4 hrs (pretty typical for a rusty old truck).

Disassemble door
bang on roll pin with a hammer
realize it won't budge
grab the drill
realize you don't have a drill bit the right dia/length
Go to hardware store
Drill it out
Disassemble
Find an acceptable replacement roll pin
Reassemble
Bandage up cuts from fishing your arm up into door multiple times

[Rich72C10]

Gee, that sounds promising - thanks @cj847

So to be sure I am on the same page, here's a photo of my driver's side (should have provided this in my 1st post). This pin that I am pointing out, it could be possible to get it out to remove the arm, after pulling the door panel off to install those pads that I have the outlined?

I think my hinge bits aren't to rusty but no telling what the paint is hiding. I suppose squirting some free-all to soak for a bit of time might help me out.

I think I read the pin shaft narrows in the middle? Which seem odd as how does a pin get down in there?

[Getter-Done]

I will get you some pictures when I get home.

It is best to use a roll pin punch and drive the pin upward from the bottom.

[1970cstblazer]

I have replaced them on a vise off the truck. These can be a biatch even off the truck. Can't fathom doing it on the truck.

[Rich72C10]

Thank you Getter-Done!

I have some roll pin punches but I am sure I don't have the correct size in my Dad's old tool box (which you can just see in the background of my photo!). Plus, the ones I do have been beat to hell and back LOL

I foresee a trip to the store, one way or the other. I pray "drilling" isn't what I have to fall back on. Though knowing my awful luck it will be LOL

[Rich72C10]

Originally Posted by 1970cstblazer

I have replaced them on a vise off the truck. These can be a biatch even off the truck. Can't fathom doing it on the truck.

Not being very positive :p LOL

[Steeveedee]

I started to drill mine out, but the bit went off center, so I stopped. It's a solid pin, not a roll pin, as far as I can tell. I really don't want to pull that hinge.

[Rich72C10]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

I started to drill mine out, but the bit went off center, so I stopped. It's a solid pin, not a roll pin, as far as I can tell. I really don't want to pull that hinge.

It "seems" to be a split pin in my hinge, though I could be just stupid too just thinking that by the way it looks from the top.

Here's a photo, directly from the top. I know the pin doesn't go all the way to the bottom, as a punch I have goes up inside a quite a bit from the bottom. The punch that I tried gets wider as it goes up inside that shaft (I almost couldn't get it out when I didn't notice that - opps).

Edit: Ya, that pin is hollow and assume its "split" all the down its side - I dropped a 5/64th Allen into the center.

@Steeveedee - are you trying to do the same thing that I am doing, to replace those pads or some other hinge arm repair? I ask since you said, "I really don't want to pull that hinge."

[Getter-Done]

If it is Original it is a split pin.
At least everyone I have seen.
It is also hardened.
Most twist drills will not touch it.

[Rich72C10]

I suppose it is called a roll, spring, and/or tension pin?

Either way, hopefully the Free-All spray is helping it and then Getter-Done's photo will shed light on the subject :-)

Interesting post on a member that did work on their hinges: https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...&postcount=120

Dear lord, lets hope mine isn't bent!

The spring pin holding the slider was bent and had to be cut out with a small cutoff wheel in my Dremel and pushed out in small peaces.

[pjmoreland]

If I remember correctly, it's just the hole that gets smaller toward the center. I struggled with getting the pin out because I didn't realize this and was using a punch initially that was too big to fit through the hole where it necks down.

[Rich72C10]

Originally Posted by pjmoreland

If I remember correctly, it's just the hole that gets smaller toward the center. I struggled with getting the pin out because I didn't realize this and was using a punch initially that was too big to fit through the hole where it necks down.

What a pain, if you use too big of a punch you'll get nowhere but if you use to small of a punch, I assume you end up going inside the pin.

Need a "goldilocks" punch - then still need luck to get the thing to move I think.

I still hear my "maybe I'll install them" parts box calling out to me - ha!

[Getter-Done]

I have the punch at home.
I can check the size after work.

[Stocker]

I did mine years ago so am hazy on some details. I know for sure I didn't remove the door or the hinge. I fought to remove the roll pin until I discovered that although the top & bottom of the hole is 1/4", the roll pin and the central section of the hole is 3/16". You cannot drive a 1/4" drift through that 3/16" section. Use a 3/16" drift and drive it up from the bottom.

[70STOVEBOLT]

Subscribed. I need to do hinge pins and bushings, and will likely do this job as well while they are off.

[Rich72C10]

Thanks Getter & Stocker! I don't have a 3/16" punch, though hope I can find one locally that isn't tapered - which I assume I could get stuck pounding it up. Its great to hear that it is "possible" to get it out without removing hinges.

@70STOVEBOLT - you should visit this thread/post since you are doing a lot more and removing your hinges. I had posted it earlier up and it might be a bit more helpful to your project.

https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...&postcount=120

[Stocker]

Originally Posted by Rich72C10

Thanks Getter & Stocker! I don't have a 3/16" punch, though hope I can find one locally that isn't tapered - which I assume I could get stuck pounding it up. Its great to hear that it is "possible" to get it out without removing hinges.

This is one of the details I mentioned I was a bit hazy on. Lacking the proper tool, I *think* I might have used a 3/16" carriage bolt.

[Steeveedee]

Originally Posted by Rich72C10

It "seems" to be a split pin in my hinge, though I could be just stupid too just thinking that by the way it looks from the top.

Here's a photo, directly from the top. I know the pin doesn't go all the way to the bottom, as a punch I have goes up inside a quite a bit from the bottom. The punch that I tried gets wider as it goes up inside that shaft (I almost couldn't get it out when I didn't notice that - opps).

Edit: Ya, that pin is hollow and assume its "split" all the down its side - I dropped a 5/64th Allen into the center.

@Steeveedee - are you trying to do the same thing that I am doing, to replace those pads or some other hinge arm repair? I ask since you said, "I really don't want to pull that hinge."

I stand corrected. I'll operate on it one of these days. I only want to replace the door check. Only the driver's side is worn out.

[Rich72C10]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

I stand corrected. I'll operate on it one of these days. I only want to replace the door check. Only the driver's side is worn out.

Same here, 100%

[70STOVEBOLT]

Richard, thanks for the link.

[Getter-Done]

Originally Posted by Rich72C10

Thanks Getter & Stocker! I don't have a 3/16" punch, though hope I can find one locally that isn't tapered - which I assume I could get stuck pounding it up. Its great to hear that it is "possible" to get it out without removing hinges.

@70STOVEBOLT - you should visit this thread/post since you are doing a lot more and removing your hinges. I had posted it earlier up and it might be a bit more helpful to your project.

https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...&postcount=120

Okay
I am finally home .

Looks like you found the link for the trick.

The hole is around about 15/64.

This is what it is counterbored to,
The hole for the roll pin is drill a little smaller than 3/16.

The reason they did this is a drill that small would break if drill that deep.
Then the part would be scrap.

The the Roll pin is 3/16.

It gets distorted over the years and has to be cut and drove out from both sides.

Now I remember all this once I got home and looked at one of those hinges.

I have a Trick about getting the hinge pin out also.

[Rich72C10]

If I have to resort to cutting/driving out from both sides - not sure how I could do that without taking the hinge off the truck. But I can see why that might be required

Is it correct that a 3/16" drift it is smaller than the 3/16" pin (allowing it to go into the hole)? I could look for a carriage bolt and use my digital calipers, perhaps 4.5mm is small enough? Anyone able to measure one of these 3/16" drifts with digital calipers for millimeter size?

[Steeveedee]

Too much trouble. I think I'll keep using a 2 X 4 to keep the door open on a down slope.

[Rich72C10]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

Too much trouble. I think I'll keep using a 2 X 4 to keep the door open on a down slope.

Right - what a pain to try to get a little old pin out ... grrr!