Living with the duramax vs the 6.0L?

[bennylava]

Hi all, I was hoping someone here has a lot of experience with both, preferably with working on both and driving them. I'm trying to make up my mind as to which one I should buy. A duramax 3/4 ton truck, or a gas powered one.

From what I can tell, diesel guys don't have much love for the Duramax in general. The seem to like Cummins and Ford, and Duramax comes in in 3rd place. Does this mean that I should avoid buying an 06 chevy with a diesel engine in it?

Next question, might be dumb, but how is the ride quality on the various 3/4 ton GMT 800 trucks? I talked to one guy who said he only buys Duramax instead of Ford or Dodge, simply because the ride quality is better. In a 3/4 ton diesel truck, is it really that much better?

Thanks!

[EVRLET]

Go diesel. I own 3 duramax. Two are LBZ (2007) and one a LLY (2005).

When it comes to diesels of this year range, here is the best way to break it down:

Diesel performance: Duramax
Max towing: Cummins or Powerstroke

You need to ask yourself what do you want the truck for. They all have their “issues” but all are good with proper maintenance. Yes, diesels require more maintenance but that’s how you get to 500k miles no problem. Cummins and Powerstroke always exceeds Duramax for overall tow rating. But for power ratings, can’t beat the Duramax.

I can tow what I want with my trucks, so when I say performance, don’t think you lose towing in favor of performance.

For my pictures:

1. Yes, that’s a 2007 2500hd classic single cab duramax with a 5’8” bed. Yes, I did the 6 lug conversion for better wheel options. Yes, it’s an LBZ with 120k miles.

2. Yes, that’s a 1 of 1 2007 2500hd classic crew cab quadrasteer duramax. Yes, the quadrasteer works. No, GM never made a quadrasteer with a diesel option, but I did. Yes, that’s another 6 lug swap. Yes, I tow with it with zero issues. Yes, it has 340k miles and does not leak any oil at all.

Ride quality is awesome. No straight axles up front and the torsion bars are awesome
And yes, both have sunroofs

[95 S_Trucker]

Ford And Dodge/Ram both use solid axles on their 4wd models. The GM IFS rides a lot better.

As far a gas or dieses, It depends on what your intension are with the truck. If you tow a lot of weight frequently, I would go for the diesel.

I have a 6.0 truck, and I tow 8000-10,000 pounds once a month. The truck will do it, but its under powered on steep hills.

The duramax trucks in this era are all 17+ years old. Don't be surprised when injectors/pump/turbocharger need to be replaced. Its big money if you have a shop do it.

[bennylava]

Originally Posted by 95 S_Trucker

Ford And Dodge/Ram both use solid axles on their 4wd models. The GM IFS rides a lot better.

As far a gas or dieses, It depends on what your intension are with the truck. If you tow a lot of weight frequently, I would go for the diesel.

I have a 6.0 truck, and I tow 8000-10,000 pounds once a month. The truck will do it, but its under powered on steep hills.

The duramax trucks in this era are all 17+ years old. Don't be surprised when injectors/pump/turbocharger need to be replaced. Its big money if you have a shop do it.

Could the 6.0 be upgraded so that it was no longer under powered on steep hills, and still be a reliable engine (and transmission)?

Next question!

Is it difficult for a DIY'er to replace injectors, turbo, and pump on the duramax?

Last question,

Which duramax engine is the one to have? I've heard some of them are hated, and others are pretty good. Not sure which ones though.

[EVRLET]

Read all about which duramax here:

https://prosourcediesel.com/blog/che...blems-by-year/

The best duramax is the LBZ and the much newer L5P. You will pay a premium for an LBZ, but you won’t regret it. Just don’t pay stupid prices.

Are you looking for a single cab, extended cab, crew cab? 2wd, 4wd?

When buying a duramax you need to find someone with a Tech 2 or a scanner that can read injector balance rates. This is one of the most important tests when buying a used diesel because injectors are not cheap.

As for changing turbos, I seriously doubt you will need to change one. But if you did, you can remove the turbo without lifting the cab off the frame.

The CP3 injection pump is amazing. The garbage CP4 pumps in the newer diesels is the problem. You can change a pump if you need to, not difficult.

Everything on the 2000-2010 duramax is diy friendly. Just have to understand how diesels work.


First purchase for a Duramax is a lift pump. I have an air dog and they’re good. Other option is the fass lift pump. You need a lift pump because the CP3 has to really work to suck the gas from the tank all the way to the engine. The CP3 is mounted in the engine valley so that’s why it has to work. The lift pump is mounted by the tank and pushes the fluid at higher rates to the CP3 and this helps tremendously. Do you have to get a lift pump, no. But if you want to keep your diesel running forever and not have a CP3 failure, then it’s a must.

Next upgrade is a better trans cooler. I have a mishimoto and pulling 10k uphill, my trans temp hovers around 160-175. The Allison 6 speed that came with the LBZ is an awesome transmission. The 5 speed Allison in the LB7 and LLY is okay but the 6 speed is the one you want.


Sorry for the book