LongShot Fabrications Frame Shortening Kit

[LockDoc]

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So I had a complete 1/2 ton frame left over from the '71 Chevy truck I bought a few years ago. I used some of the sheet metal parts off of it for the Black Dually build. The frame had a lot of new parts put on it, like new trailing arms, brakes, complete front end rebuild, and steering gear. I have a pretty nice short bed box so I decided to shorten this frame so I could put the short bed box on it. I decided on the LongShot Fabrications Kit because it was quite a bit cheaper than the brothers kit.

https://www.longshotfab.com/products...bed-conversion

The first thing I would recommend is to measure the distance of the cab mounts on each side of the frame. I measured from the back of the hole on the front cab mount bracket to the back of the hole on the rear cab mount bracket. Mine measured 41 3/4" on each side. I wrote this measurement on the front bracket so I wouldn't forget it. (Pictures 1&2) No matter who you buy your kit from, and especially if you bought an older kit that has been floating around for a few years DO NOT rely on the company's measurements for the location of the rear cab mounts. Do your own calculations from the measurements you took as a first step.

The cutting guide fit the outside of the frame rail great, except I didn't have a hole in my frame where the 5/16" bolt was supposed to go, in the rear area. (Picture 3) I used a step drill bit to drill the 6 holes per side for the 3/8" bolts. My smallest step drill had a 1/8" size for the first step and that fit in the small template holes perfectly. After cutting the bracket and frame I bolted the frame stiffener bracket inside of the front half of the frame rails (picture 4) and slid the front and rear back together. (Picture 5&6) I had to run the step drill thorugh a couple of the holes for the 3/8" bolts because they did bot line up perfectly. Not a big deal though.

After bolting everything up I checked the top of the frame rail with the long side of a framing square to make sure the top of the rails were flat. Then I checked the squareness of the frame by X meassuring corner to corner. That was off by 1/8 of an inch, which is within factory specs from what I read. I tack welded the joints in a few places because I will have to take it over to a friend of mine to have him weld it for me. My welder is not up to the task for the penetration needed for this type of project.

I then moved on to the rear body mounts. I figured out about where the brackets would go and clamped them on with a pair of "C" clamp Vise Grips so I could make the final adjustments on them. Using the measurements made as the first step In the process, I put a second pair of Vise Grips on them so they wouldn't move and used a centering transfer punch to mark the center of the exixting holes in the bracket. I drilled the holes, again using the same step drills.

Time to cut off the rear 8" of the frame rails. I did not use the kit template for this step either I just measured them and squared them off with a tri-square and cut them with a sawzall. (Pictures 7&8) Everything went together pretty smooth.

One of the great tools I bought years ago works good whenever you are drilling and/or grinding, to pick up the metal shavings. You just run it over the floor and it picks up the shavings, then hold it over the trash can and pull the "T" handle up and it drops the stuff into the trash can. No trying to scrape it off of the magnet. (Last 2 pictures)

[LockDoc]

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Rest of pictures.

[Orange Crate]

Nice work. More pics please, maybe of the bed and cab, also of the finished welding.

[custom10nut]

Good work.
Your thread got me wondering about a possible build I’d like to do.
There’s a LWB C-30 that’s been “For Sale” for a while now, and the hamster wheel started turning.
Shorten the frame, put on a LWB pickup box on with fenders, and I’ll have a Dually Pickup.
Of course, if the thickness of the frame metal is different, it won’t work, but…..

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by Orange Crate

Nice work. More pics please, maybe of the bed and cab, also of the finished welding.

Unfortunately, I don't have a cab for this one. How soon I can get it welded depends on the weather and how busy my friend is. He only lives 2 miles from me so hopefully next week....

Here are a couple of pictures of the bed.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by custom10nut

Good work.
Your thread got me wondering about a possible build I’d like to do.
There’s a LWB C-30 that’s been “For Sale” for a while now, and the hamster wheel started turning.
Shorten the frame, put on a LWB pickup box on with fenders, and I’ll have a Dually Pickup.
Of course, if the thickness of the frame metal is different, it won’t work, but…..

Yes, the frames are different. LongShot now says that their kit will work on c10s and C20's. When I bought this kit it said only C10's.

[nicklear36]

On my kit the rear cab mount was also off for some reason. I had to measure by hand to be sure.

[pjmoreland]

Do the new ends of the frame rails already have bumper bracket holes in the right places?

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by nicklear36

On my kit the rear cab mount was also off for some reason. I had to measure by hand to be sure.

I remember you saying that before Nick. That is why I double checked this one. The pattern I had was off by 1/4"

Originally Posted by pjmoreland

Do the new ends of the frame rails already have bumper bracket holes in the right places?

No, I am not going to drill them right now because it depends on what type of bumper is used.

[pjmoreland]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

No, I am not going to drill them right now because it depends on what type of bumper is used.

The holes that are there look really close.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by pjmoreland

The holes that are there look really close.

I noticed that too when I was out there a while ago, but I didn't have time to check for sure. I will have to do that.

[pjmoreland]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

I noticed that too when I was out there a while ago, but I didn't have time to check for sure. I will have to do that.

I suppose you could just hold the cut off piece from one side up to the other side.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by pjmoreland

I suppose you could just hold the cut off piece from one side up to the other side.

That should work. I will be going back out after supper.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by pjmoreland

Do the new ends of the frame rails already have bumper bracket holes in the right places?

The holes in the shorter frame rails are the same as the cut off long pieces.

[pjmoreland]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

The holes in the shorter frame rails are the same as the cut off long pieces.

That's super convenient, depending on bumper type

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by pjmoreland

That's super convenient, depending on bumper type

I think most people use the sport bumpers on the short beds so that would work for that.

[bnorth]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

I think most people use the sport bumpers on the short beds so that would work for that.

I used the longshot kit on mine with a sport bumper and it sets the bumper out a bit too far from the box. I have aftermarket bumper brackets so that may be part of the problem but the fit was nice when it was a longbed. I will be re-drilling them to tuck the bumper tighter to the bed.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by bnorth

I used the longshot kit on mine with a sport bumper and it sets the bumper out a bit too far from the box. I have aftermarket bumper brackets so that may be part of the problem but the fit was nice when it was a longbed. I will be re-drilling them to tuck the bumper tighter to the bed.

Good to know, thanks for the input.....