Help replacing rear brake flexible hose….

[jabborabbo]

I’m at a loss - any advice would be greatly appreciated!!!!!!

[HO455]

Are you looking for part numbers or a how to replace the hose?

[jabborabbo]

Originally Posted by HO455

Are you looking for part numbers or a how to replace the hose?

How to replace it. It would also be beneficial if I specified that my truck is a ‘67 GMC…(I‘m an idiot for failing to do that).

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by jabborabbo

How to replace it. It would also be beneficial if I specified that my truck is a ‘67 GMC…(I‘m an idiot for failing to do that).

Is your truck a c15 -1/2 ton or a c25 -3/4 ton? I'm not sure it makes a difference on the GMC's. but post it up anyway.

EDIT: Also whether it has leaf or coil springs in the rear....

The first thing you will have to do is locate a brake hose for it. If your local auto parts store doesn't have one listed Rock Auto has a few of them. It would be listed as a "rear center" brake hose. The parts store will have to know all of the specs for your truck to be able to look it up.

[Rust_never_sleeps]

Soak those joints in penetrant for as far ahead as you can. Use a decent set of line wrenches.
That 90* bend at the end of the front->back hard line is kinda fragile, and that nut can be locked up to the hard line so it'll twist the tubing
...so, IMHO your best bet is to hold that nut immobile and see if you can get the end of the soft line to move a tiny bit o break it loose from the "wrong" side.
If that doesn't work, you'll just have to do your best not to mangle the hard line
The other end is a block that's pretty easy to immobilize

[chevmn]

I just finished doing one. Biggest thing is to start appying a good penetrating oil (WD 40 is not a good penetrating oil). If you have a few days, all the better, keep applying at least once a day, more is better. Then use good line wrench, and keep after it. I have found a good homemade penetrating oil is a 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone, but it takes some time, the acetone thins the ATF and carries it in.

[LockDoc]

-
To add to what the others have said, here is how I get brake lines loose. Heat the flare fitting on the metal brake line with a propane torch, let it cool a bit and then spray some penetrating oil on it. Do this two or three times to break the rust bond on the fitting and use a brake line wrench to try and break the fitting loose. (do not try to use an open end wrench on it) Don't just put the wrench on it and crank on it cause you will round off the flats on the flare nut. Try to loosen it, then try tightening it. Keep going back and forth until it starts moving. Once it starts moving keep turning back and forth a little more each time until you get it so it turns easy, then unscrew it. If the metal line is really rusty it may twist off anyway but all you can do is try.

[Jason Banks]

Listen to Lockdoc about the propane torch, it will make your life so much easier. I've done a few of these and don't even try to break them loose anymore without using the torch first.

I discovered earlier this year my old craftsman line wrenched were not that great. I bought a couple used snap on ones from ebay and they are so much better.

[jabborabbo]

LockDoc said “ Don't just put the wrench on it and crank on it cause you will round off the flats on the flare nut.”

Unfortunately I’ve apparently already done that-I assume and hope that using heat, vice-grips, and Aerokroil I should successfully get it off?