I will try this again - which HEI distributor to get ?

[IT Cowboy]

I think I am going to convert to HEI for a little more reliability and efficiency. Which distributor is tops and wont break the bank for me. I am looking at the $225 range of options on Jegs and the usual sites. I cannot afford a $600 race or digital dist. Is there a brand or model that is know for reliability and maybe not made in China

I was going to add a Holly HyperSpark and then I would have it if I ever wanted to add the Sniper2 but I found out their Dist. will not work stand alone.

[dmjlambert]

I have a strong tendancy is to stick with original GM parts when possible. So for such a case I would post a want-to-buy ad in the parts section and see what offers you get, or get a remanufactured one which is often sold as the store brand in car parts stores, and they also often come with a lifetime warranty. The car parts store will need your "application" so you would tell them 1980 Chevy C10 pickup with a 350. Incidentally, did you happen to take your distributor cap off and look for the points? It is possible you have a conversion electronic ignition module in place of the points, such as Pertronics, which would mean you're already electronic. Regarding reliability it is not possible to beat points because there is no module to fail and leave you stranded. But there are benefits to HEI and I have one so I'm not saying don't do it. I am kind of considering going back to old school points and some folks here on the forum have done so.

[Dead Parrot]

I have a 20+ year old Accel HEI dist on mine. But it was purchased when it was still a US made part. I have seen posts that the later China made versions aren't as reliable. Especially the electronics parts.

[IT Cowboy]

I am getting the made in China and quality went to crap a lot on the reviews

Right now I still have the external coil so I figured if the coil was internal it might be more reliable and efficient. I am looking at the ready to run models with the gear and everything installed.

While I am here, how big of a job is it to replace the external coil one. I guess there is a lower voltage wire to the ignition that gets removed? I am sure I can find a good how to video somewhere. I am also nervous about finding top dead center and getting the gear and rotor in the right spot.

I think I found a new GM one for around the $300 range.

[Dead Parrot]

You do want to make sure you have a full 12V power lead for an HEI dizzy.

Pretty sure that the points and HEI dists are indexed the same. Pull the cap off the old one before pulling it out. Note where the rotor is pointing as it exits the motor. Set your HEI rotor the same way. It should settle in and be correct. No need to turn over the motor during the process.

Also note which wire is #1 and put the HEI #1 wire in the same place. You will need a new set of plug wires as the HEI connectors are different then the points one.

If you have a tach or plans to get one, the HEI already has a built it tach connector.

[dmjlambert]

Here is part of the answer, resistor wire change to regular wire for HEI. https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=708975

The other part, there are several ways to do it. My way would be find the wire on the distributor that is for spark plug 1. With the engine rotated to 0 degrees on the timing mark on the harmonic balancer, the rotor inside the distributor cap will be pointed to the spark plug 1 wire or the spark plug 6 wire. If it is pointing at the spark plug 1 wire you are at top dead center. If it is pointing to spark plug 6 wire, rotate the engine 1 more full turn. Then you are at top dead center.

Install the HEI distributor with the power connector pointing straight to the driver side hood hinge, and you'll need to remove the distributor cap to see the rotor pointing at the engine's spark plug 1. Install the wires in firing number order clockwise starting with the spark plug 1 wire in the position the rotor is pointing to.
It may take rotating the engine a little to get the distributor to stab down fully because the oil pump is turned by a fitting on the distributor gear that needs to line up with the fitting on the oil pump.
Install the lock down holder but don't fully tighten until you have adjusted your timing.
Don't forget to connect the wire bundle coming out of the distributor to the distributor cap, those are the wires to power and trigger the coil. I usually forget to connect that and then I wonder why the engine doesn't start.

I have to double and triple check the spark plug wires are in the right order and going to the right spark plugs and they are neatly arranged, and make corrections. I get something wrong every time it seems. The last time I did this I didn't put one of the wires completely clicked down on the distributor connection, and it fell off. I took my truck to my mechanic because it was running so bad, and he found it was off and I was embarrassed. While driving it the short way to his shop, the coil blew a hole right through the rotor because of that mistake. So I had to get yet another rotor and install it. You may have seen my thread about that where I was asking what would have caused it to burn a hole after just a few miles.

With an HEI distributor it is typical to re-gap your spark plugs to a little wider gap but you don't need to go crazy with a huge gap. About 0.040 or 0.042 is fine. 0.045 at the most.

Others may chime in with more information, corrections, better ideas, etc. Dead Parrot already did when I was typing my TLDR post.

[Rick Bollinger]

As far as wiring. I removed the main wiring harness connection at the firewall. removed the resister wire to the coil. Then replaced it with a 10 ga wire directly to the distributor. The connector is a 56 series connector. https://www.amazon.com/Delphi-297185...zcF9hdGY&psc=1 At the distributor you can use just a female spade connector or get one of these. https://www.amazon.com/Xislet-Distri...1zcF9hdGY&th=1 It is also a good time to clean up your main harness connection. It makes a huge difference in lights and everything. Dmjlambert I just went back on your link about changing the wire at the connector and you nailed it perfectly. Great job with the pictures and everything.

[Rick Bollinger]

I guess your main question wasn't answered by me. I used this along with there wires on my new 383 when it was built. I am also running a Fi Tech EFI.
https://www.amazon.com/MSD-8362-Stre...ps%2C95&sr=8-1
On the old motor I ran a cheap Accel HEI from the parts store for 2 years with no problems. If your going to go with the snipper complete set-up at some time just go to a junk yard and pick one up used. Just make sure the bushings are tight no side to side play. You might even get lucky and find a newer one with wires for around $25. When you drop it in just make sure it goes all the way down into the oil pump drive. Watch your oil pressure gauge when you first start it. It's not hard just kind of intimidating if you haven't done much of it.