Restomod 72 K10 "Good Memories"

[Orange71shorty]

Curious how you installed the headliner trim without drilling holes?
Truck is looking great

[Richard]

Originally Posted by Orange71shorty

Curious how you installed the headliner trim without drilling holes?
Truck is looking great

Thanks for the comment. I installed the trim with 3M VHB tape. Same type as the headliner. 1" for the headliner and 1/4" for the trim.

Removed mounting tabs from backside of trim. Installed short screws in the mounting holes, securing with flat clips on backside.

12" long pieces of 1/4" pvc tube were secured to the body just outside the perimeter of headliner using the double stick tape.

Trim is test fit with outer tape not exposed. Adhesive is exposed and trim pressed into place.

I had someone say to me that they would not trust the tape. Yet the vehicle they are driving has all the exterior trim stuck on with tape. Baking in the sun, driving at speed? We use these tapes at the body shop all the time.

[Richard]

More pics. KC was hanging out while I worked on wiring today

[Orange71shorty]

Great work on the headliner trim. Where did you source the pvc?
Glad to see you’re getting some help from kitty!

[Richard]

Originally Posted by Orange71shorty

Great work on the headliner trim. Where did you source the pvc?
Glad to see you’re getting some help from kitty!

Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09GV78ZZ5...sin_title&th=1
Tape https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GTAB20M...fed_asin_title
I use the clear acrylic tape a lot of times instead of the foam based. Have things held in place for years with the stuff. Clean surface and press down well.

[Orange71shorty]

Originally Posted by Richard

Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09GV78ZZ5...sin_title&th=1
Tape https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GTAB20M...fed_asin_title
I use the clear acrylic tape a lot of times instead of the foam based. Have things held in place for years with the stuff. Clean surface and press down well.

Thank you!

[Richard]

Wanted to repost this, an awesome idea for attaching molding here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TcGBoTphXfc credit- found this in a thread by IT_Cowboy. Will use this method on some of my trim to make alignment easier.

[Richard]

Taking a little break from working under the dash. Picked up the welded air cleaner tube today and fit it. Still need to fabricate the air box, but you get the idea. Made bracket for the PSC reservoir and routed a few hoses. Started the under hood truck wiring. Routing and bundling the harness. Ran an extra 10 gauge wire over to the battery for the auxiliary switched fuse panel I installed under the dash. The under hood ECM harness is about 80% finished.

[pjmoreland]

I have shock envy

[Richard]

Originally Posted by pjmoreland

I have shock envy

They are pretty cool, right? I am still full of smiles every time I see what has been accomplished. 30" of coil spring wrapped around those beauty's. 125lb effective initial spring rate with the combined coils. No more bucking bronco driving down the road.

[Richard]

Have been picking up a bit to make more room. Installed the front calipers and Yukon hardcore hubs. The clearance of the 18" temp wheels is a little close to the large two piston Ram caliper. 17" wheels are supposed to fit with the 14" rotor setup. Will grab one of the wheels from the shed to check fitment.

[Richard]

Hydroboost and power steering lines made and installed. Power steering cooler is plumbed. Also got the correct fittings for the oil pressure sending unit and installed/wired it. Modified a gauge for the cluster, no more oil in the cab. Will see info on that when I post about the gauge cluster. Waiting on a couple things to finish that up.

[Richard]

Slow at the shop. I took an old glove box door obtained on the forum in and transformed it into a switch panel this week. Painted yesterday and installed today. All locations have a purpose except the the three on the right, they are for future. Never know when you might need to switch something.

Left to right- right PW control, hidden radio, halo lights, compressor on/off, rear locker, front locker, heated seats L/R, hidden radio input, usb-c and usb 3 power for charging + voltage display then the 3 extra switches. I saw someone do similar to this here on the forum some time back. So I cannot take credit for the idea.

Also installed the headlights, hid ballasts and relay harness. Still need to complete wiring to switch for halo lights. Painted the hood latch and support, battery tray and corner fender to rad support braces. They are installed and out of my way. Left front tire is going flat. Reason for the lean. Even though tires will not be used, the lean bugs me and I need to put some air in the tire.

[57taskforce]

Love the progress Richard. That switch panel is pretty slick! I’m curious how you like the breaks when the time comes. I have contemplated that swap on mine for a while but not pulled the trigger. Mine with hydraboost and the stock front GM 60 brake setup stops the 35’s pretty decent but more is always better right? Lol

[NDM]

Originally Posted by Richard

Slow at the shop. I took an old glove box door obtained on the forum in and transformed it into a switch panel this week. Painted yesterday and installed today. All locations have a purpose except the the three on the right, they are for future. Never know when you might need to switch something.

Left to right- right PW control, hidden radio, halo lights, compressor on/off, rear locker, front locker, heated seats L/R, hidden radio input, usb-c and usb 3 power for charging + voltage display then the 3 extra switches. I saw someone do similar to this here on the forum some time back. So I cannot take credit for the idea.

Also installed the headlights, hid ballasts and relay harness. Still need to complete wiring to switch for halo lights. Painted the hood latch and support, battery tray and corner fender to rad support braces. They are installed and out of my way. Left front tire is going flat. Reason for the lean. Even though tires will not be used, the lean bugs me and I need to put some air in the tire.

Seriously... I think I am 100% copying that switch panel idea. That looks soooo good 👍

[mr.mud1]

more great work,switch panel looks like it grew there.

[Richard]

Originally Posted by 57taskforce

Love the progress Richard. That switch panel is pretty slick! I’m curious how you like the breaks when the time comes. I have contemplated that swap on mine for a while but not pulled the trigger. Mine with hydraboost and the stock front GM 60 brake setup stops the 35’s pretty decent but more is always better right? Lol

Thank you, yes I do feel like I am knocking some stuff out and progressing forward again. Switch panel turned out pretty good. The wiring is not real hard. There is just so much of it! As I always did in the past on things that could be overwhelming, one or two parts at a time while keeping an eye on what is next.
One thing that pushed me to to do the Ram 3500 14" brakes was the rotor goes on from the front. No disassembling the entire hub for the rotor. While Brembo and Wilwood brakes are cool and may work better in certain situations. Over the counter maintenance items like brakes are a requirement for me as this truck will be a driver.

[Richard]

Originally Posted by NDM

Seriously... I think I am 100% copying that switch panel idea. That looks soooo good 👍

Thanks “Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery" My original plan was just to cut door down and leave enough material to bend a flange to attach it. Then I thought it would look cool with the formed detail all around the edge. Hours of cutting, welding, grinding, bit of body work and paint. You see the result. Think it would be hard to get enough $ for this piece to make for someone. No, I am not offering. This is my one prototype

[Richard]

Originally Posted by mr.mud1

more great work,switch panel looks like it grew there.

A comment from you always makes me smile

[NDM]

Originally Posted by Richard

Thanks “Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery" My original plan was just to cut door down and leave enough material to bend a flange to attach it. Then I thought it would look cool with the formed detail all around the edge. Hours of cutting, welding, grinding, bit of body work and paint. You see the result. Think it would be hard to get enough $ for this piece to make for someone. No, I am not offering. This is my one prototype

As a metal shaper myself, I looked at it and said to myself "I could make that with a quick hammerform mdf buck with a raised edge". Basically picture this-
3/4 mdf with the correct radiused edge. The top of the buck would be dished so that I could form the concave in the part.

I am not trying to minimize the hours of work that you put in. I just visualized a way for me to make one from a flat sheet.

I may be geeking out on the part but seriously, it is very appealing to my eyes.

[Richard]

Originally Posted by NDM

As a metal shaper myself, I looked at it and said to myself "I could make that with a quick hammerform mdf buck with a raised edge". Basically picture this-
3/4 mdf with the correct radiused edge. The top of the buck would be dished so that I could form the concave in the part.

I am not trying to minimize the hours of work that you put in. I just visualized a way for me to make one from a flat sheet.

I may be geeking out on the part but seriously, it is very appealing to my eyes.

Sounds like you are more skilled with metal work than I. Yes, I can see using a buck or even a pull max to make the part. Awesome you could make this from flat metal!
I have never liked the under dash L bracket mounting of accessories. A glove box door matches the instrument cluster shape and obviously the glove box door. No worries about "minimizing" anything. Modifying a door was the path of least resistance for ME to get the result I wanted at this time with the resources at hand.

[Richard]

The steering ram lines are made and installed. Something I had been putting off as the truck needed to be at full droop to determine line length. Also needed to check for binding tie rod ends used on drag link, all good. Side pic of truck is with tires back on, full droop is about 2" more.
Threw a battery in the recently installed tray. Hooked up a few wires and the motor turned over with the key! Probably a bit anticlimactic for most, but it was cool to see some results of all the work. Will start testing components now and continue with wiring.
Threw in a pic of the high pressure fittings used on the hoses.

[Richard]

Finished the instrument cluster. Originally out of a heavy truck. Why there is an air pressure gauge, will use that for my on board compressor. Had a 5k tach, I sanded the numbers off, polished and installed a new 8k decal from pjmoreland along with the 8k tach. The ammeter was replaced with a volt gauge from T-Bone. I obtained an electronic oil pressure gauge then swapped a stock face onto it to get rid of the oil feed line into the cab. Gauge reads up to 100 psi so is more compatible with the LS. Lastly I installed a check engine light. I made the amber lens and installed a decal from pjmoreland.

[Richard]

Have completed a lot of wiring. Rear truck harness is installed as well as Vaporworx fuel pump harness and pwm controller.
Started on brake lines and ordered the custom length hoses from Crown performance.
Painted the tank and skidplate. Assembled tank and it is ready for install. While probably not necessary because of the fuel module reservoir and technology. I added two additional pick-ups at rear of tank. Not apparent in pictures because it looks just like the previous, but the ZL1 fuel module has been swapped for the Vaporworx Super pump. Basically a CTS-V fuel module good for 800+hp supercharged (modded for Blazer tank by me).
I tested the sending unit with the new gauge cluster and it reads as it should.
Talking with the tuner and Carl at Vaporworx I may be at the edge of what a ZL1 pump can handle. Decided to make to make the switch now so tank does not have to be dropped again.
Next few days are more wiring, hard line for fuel and vapor to front of truck and maybe more brake line work. A few pics were attached.

[NDM]

What vehicle was that hydrocortisone from? My cammed 6.6 is not making enough vacuum so I need to get hydroboost.