anti freeze type

[kglowacky]

Installing a new alum radiator in my truck. Removing a oem brass/copper. Do I need a different type of antifreeze because i am going from brass/copper oem to aluminum? Years ago the marketplace made a big deal about alum blocks and rad needing a special type of antifreeze. Does universal type cover it all?

[Getter-Done]

There is always a Big Debate about this subject.
Here is an article about that in the link below.

Link: https://www.chevronlubricants.com/en...y-coolant.html

Also some people suggest Water pump lubricant.
It is even a Bigger debate.

Link: https://www.amazon.com/Motor-Medic-C...663267407&th=1

[truckdude239]

ive been though 3 rads using vavoline max life antifreeze this one i think i used prestone max for alumin engines so we will if if it helps i drive my truck like 300 miles a year so that propaly hurts it too

[kglowacky]

thinking if a 2006 chev PU with a LS1 iron block with alum heads, from the factory had a alum. radiator, whatever type of oem anti-freeze is what I should use.

[Rickysnickers]

I've always used Peak Global. I use it in my motorcycles as well. Never had any issues.

https://www.amazon.com/Old-World-Aut...435179778&th=1

[Joyridin]

I use a sacrificial anode type of radiator cap. Helps with the different anti-freeze types. You can find them all over the place. Here is an article to their benefit

https://www.northernradiator.com/res...acrificialcaps

[leegreen]

If the anode in a rad cap is getting eaten away there is a problem that needs fixing, most likely poor antifreeze condition and a ungrounded portion of the cooling system such that the coolant completes a circuit. If not fixed that dissolved material is being deposited somewhere else in the cooling system.

Lots of automotive engines mix iron blocks, aluminum heads, water pumps and rads and all those components are grounded together. I've never seen an anode except in marine or other raw water cooled systems where the entire engine acts as an anode connected to the ocean/lake and the component that gives up ions most easily suffers.

That 'article' is an advertisement selling radiator caps, likely using a water neck off some boat engine to create fear.

[LS short box]

On my LS swaps with alum radiators I've always used Peak "green" coolant. Zero issues.
My 98 Wrangler with a LS6/4L60E swap has 15 years on it and again zero issues.
I do drain the radiator and add new coolant every 3 years.

[Joyridin]

Originally Posted by leegreen

If the anode in a rad cap is getting eaten away there is a problem that needs fixing, most likely poor antifreeze condition and a ungrounded portion of the cooling system such that the coolant completes a circuit. If not fixed that dissolved material is being deposited somewhere else in the cooling system.

Lots of automotive engines mix iron blocks, aluminum heads, water pumps and rads and all those components are grounded together. I've never seen an anode except in marine or other raw water cooled systems where the entire engine acts as an anode connected to the ocean/lake and the component that gives up ions most easily suffers.

That 'article' is an advertisement selling radiator caps, likely using a water neck off some boat engine to create fear.

It isn't an advertisement. I am guessing you have never used one? Many companies make them now and you can even buy them to install where your petcock is located.

It is more like added protection from those cheap chinese radiators. Good psot right here: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...anode.1271114/