Restomod 72 K10 "Good Memories"

[Richard]

Originally Posted by NDM

What vehicle was that hydrocortisone from? My cammed 6.6 is not making enough vacuum so I need to get hydroboost.

I am not sure. The hydroboost unit is from Vanco https://canrockcrawl.com/ it is ported for use with the steering ram.
My power steering pump is a custom built unit from Turn One https://turnonesteering.com/ IIRC on their test dyno it was 1700 psi at just over 4.5 gpm. I had read about problems using stock components with the combo I have.
Maybe contact 57taskforce (Tyler) He is this forum's moderator and has added hydroboost to his truck using stock spec components.

[Richard]

Fuel line is ran to front of truck and I also finished all the instrument cluster wiring in the cab.
With the tank in place it was time to tackle the last PITA thing I was avoiding. Checking clearances at the rear suspension with the newer springs and everything in place. Tore down the rear leaf packs and cycled the suspension. Traction bars are great, no binding at all and they miss the front spring hangers at full bump.
Shackles have clearance at full bump.
Tank clears! It is tight with only 1/4" clearance. Will massage the tank a bit to gain a bit more room for the notched section I will put in the skid plate. Probably tomorrow.
The measurements show 14" of wheel travel, when leaf packs are reassembled they will gain about an inch of arch. So, I ended up with the 15" of travel I was shooting for.

[Richard]

Finally back together today. The crawling and heavy stuff takes it's toll on me.
Notch in skid plate clears the diff at full bump.
I had received the custom brake hoses from Crown just 5 days after ordering. Good quality and fast for custom stuff. Installed rear hoses while access is easy. Trying something a bit different to avoid a super long brake hose at the rear diff. Everything in hand to finish the brake lines and should have everything to complete the e-brake system as well.

[Richard]

Had to take it easy for a bit. Episodes of vertigo had been coming on. Been years since I dealt with that. Working on the brake lines when I can. Front is done minus a few frame clamps, short on hardware. Line is ran to back just need to route to both rear hoses. Something to look at.

[Richard]

Have been able to get back to truck a bit. Also some work at the shop. Brakes lines are pretty much done. Still need to bleed and make a bracket to keep front hoses away from the coilovers. Fuel line is done. I installed a pressure gauge on the fuel rail for tuning. It has a shut off as well. Was told the mechanical gauge can act as a dampener and prevent the PWM controller from reacting as quickly for the fuel system. Added some pics to see. Getting close to a fire up at the house.

[mr.mud1]

Looking good,it's all progress.

[Richard]

Originally Posted by mr.mud1

Looking good,it's all progress.

Yes it is. Brakes are bled with the vacuum tool. Had three small drips that were easily fixed on the 16 flares I made. Not great, but first time used that flaring tool. Have a pedal now. Vacuum bleeder never seems to do the job fully. I will follow up when I can find someone to help that can work a brake pedal and is willing to help. A bit of wiring today. Stopped and did something fun. Installed trim on both front fenders. Brought a smile to my face Going to remove core support frame mounts tomorrow and modify a bit to lower it. Will make fender alignment to doors easier.

[NDM]

Originally Posted by Richard

Yes it is. Brakes are bled with the vacuum tool. Had three small drips that were easily fixed on the 16 flares I made. Not great, but first time used that flaring tool. Have a pedal now. Vacuum bleeder never seems to do the job fully. I will follow up when I can find someone to help that can work a brake pedal and is willing to help. A bit of wiring today. Stopped and did something fun. Installed trim on both front fenders. Brought a smile to my face Going to remove core support frame mounts tomorrow and modify a bit to lower it. Will make fender alignment to doors easier.

I built myself a reverse pressure bleeder and it makes bleeding soooo much easier.

Basically it is a pvc pipe that is capped on both ends. the bottom has a ball valve tapped into the side of the cap. it has tubing that attaches to the bleeder. The top cap has a fitting with a schrader valve and one fitting that gets opened to fill the pipe with brake fluid and then you plug it back up once filled.

-Remove some of the brake fluid from the reservoir but keep some in the bowl.
-Fill the PVC chamber up with brake fluid (mine has a capacity for like two big bottles of fluid).
-Install the plug and apply about 5-10 psi to the schrader valve with the tubing on the bleeder
-Slowly open the ball valve.
-The fluid will travel from the PVC chamber to the bleeder and all the way to the master cylinder. All the bubbles get pushed out at the bowl.
-Monitor the bowl to make sure that it does not overfill.
-Move to the next wheel once it looks like no bubbles are left.
-Before starting the next wheel, remove brake fluid in the bowl if needed to prevent overflow.


With this cheap home made tool, I never have to pump the brakes at all and because I made my tubing long, I do not have to stay under the vehicle while bleeding. The low pressure ensures that it goes slow enough for me to monitor the master cylinder bowl for overfilling. This method wastes a little fluid but works way more effectively than my vacuum bleeder. It is a one man operation.


I can also use this thing to pressure bleed too. I made a plate that clamps to the master cylinder where I can apply the pressure to bleed but I do not really use it much that way because I cannot see how much fluid is inside the master cylinder while using it. The master will go dry which causes bubbles to go back into the lines.

[Richard]

Originally Posted by NDM

I built myself a reverse pressure bleeder and it makes bleeding soooo much easier.

Basically it is a pvc pipe that is capped on both ends. the bottom has a ball valve tapped into the side of the cap. it has tubing that attaches to the bleeder. The top cap has a fitting with a schrader valve and one fitting that gets opened to fill the pipe with brake fluid and then you plug it back up once filled.

-Remove some of the brake fluid from the reservoir but keep some in the bowl.
-Fill the PVC chamber up with brake fluid (mine has a capacity for like two big bottles of fluid).
-Install the plug and apply about 5-10 psi to the schrader valve with the tubing on the bleeder
-Slowly open the ball valve.
-The fluid will travel from the PVC chamber to the bleeder and all the way to the master cylinder. All the bubbles get pushed out at the bowl.
-Monitor the bowl to make sure that it does not overfill.
-Move to the next wheel once it looks like no bubbles are left.
-Before starting the next wheel, remove brake fluid in the bowl if needed to prevent overflow.


With this cheap home made tool, I never have to pump the brakes at all and because I made my tubing long, I do not have to stay under the vehicle while bleeding. The low pressure ensures that it goes slow enough for me to monitor the master cylinder bowl for overfilling. This method wastes a little fluid but works way more effectively than my vacuum bleeder. It is a one man operation.


I can also use this thing to pressure bleed too. I made a plate that clamps to the master cylinder where I can apply the pressure to bleed but I do not really use it much that way because I cannot see how much fluid is inside the master cylinder while using it. The master will go dry which causes bubbles to go back into the lines.

Interesting, did not know that it was possible to reverse bleed. Been looking around at pressure bleeders. There are some pretty inexpensive ones that have adapters for the newer GM reservoirs like I am using. Though many of the less expensive have not so good reviews. Thank you for the input.

[Richard]

Bit more done. The universal parallel flow condenser is installed along with the filter/dryer housing a GM pressure switch and over/under pressure switch. I bent up the new straight aluminum lines that were ordered to get them through the rad support. A sleeve type shroud needs to be made to tie the condenser to front of radiator. It will improve air flow at low speeds. Made the mounts for the supercharger heat exchanger and installed as well. It is just a stock ZL1 piece. Was not willing to spend the $500+ the aftermarket wants. Can always change later.
Found a pressure bleeder and ordered it, arrived today. Less than $50. An amount I am willing to spend to not bother the wife for her brake pumping ability. The fitting fits the reservoir and seems to hold pressure. May give the brake bleed another try on Saturday.

[best view]

Really coming together

[Steeveedee]

I'm busy in the morning tomorrow (Wednesday 7/2) but if you need a foot for running the brake pedal I can be available after that, if need be.

[Richard]

Originally Posted by best view

Really coming together

Thanks for the comment. I am happy with how things are working out (mostly)

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

I'm busy in the morning tomorrow (Wednesday 7/2) but if you need a foot for running the brake pedal I can be available after that, if need be.

Thank you Steven. The pressure bleeder seems to work well but I want to do a final bleed with a foot.
Something seems to be not quite right. Few things I need to investigate. One is the master. With the pressure bleeder rear brakes flow pretty easy, but both fronts bleed very slow. Typically the primary port on master cylinder is closest to the firewall. That is what front brakes are connected to. Though I have done quite a bit of searching, I have not been able to confirm which port is primary on the 2006 2500HD master I am using. FWIU, the unit I have is not for the full ABS system. Also want to double check push rod length and check the line from master to proportioning valve.

[Steeveedee]

Originally Posted by Richard

Thanks for the comment. I am happy with how things are working out (mostly)

Thank you Steven. The pressure bleeder seems to work well but I want to do a final bleed with a foot.
Something seems to be not quite right. Few things I need to investigate. One is the master. With the pressure bleeder rear brakes flow pretty easy, but both fronts bleed very slow. Typically the primary port on master cylinder is closest to the firewall. That is what front brakes are connected to. Though I have done quite a bit of searching, I have not been able to confirm which port is primary on the 2006 2500HD master I am using. FWIU, the unit I have is not for the full ABS system. Also want to double check push rod length and check the line from master to proportioning valve.

Just let me know if/when you need that 12-1/2 4E foot.

[Richard]

Guess what I have been working on? Still, mostly wiring. I did modify the core support mounts and tightened the cab down. The modification brought down the front of fenders just enough to get fender to door gap to an acceptable point for me.

Today I pulled the headers and cut off the three bolt flanges for the collector adapter. Welded v-band connections there instead because in my experience the flanges always leak. Drivers header is back on the truck with the gasket and ARP studs this time. Will install the passenger side and continue with exhaust. Have everything here, x-pipe, two 3" Flowmaster 70 series muffs and a lot of bends/pipe. Not sure I like the hangers I have but they should work to get something in place for the fire up.

[pjmoreland]

Nice looking weld. That's an interesting idea going with the band clamps on the headers. The headers on my C10 have ball and socket collectors, and the bolts come loose even with lock nuts.

[Richard]

Originally Posted by pjmoreland

Nice looking weld. That's an interesting idea going with the band clamps on the headers. The headers on my C10 have ball and socket collectors, and the bolts come loose even with lock nuts.

Thanks for the comment. This project has given me the opportunity to work on my welding techniques with several different thicknesses of metal. Everything I saw in 1 7/8" to 2" headers had the flange. These Doug Thorly tri-wye pieces were the most affordable mid length I found, I did not not want to see full length headers hanging under the frame. Will see how the v-bands work out. I have six more that will be installed in the exhaust to separate the x-pipe and mufflers.

[Richard]

Originally Posted by pjmoreland

Nice looking weld. That's an interesting idea going with the band clamps on the headers. The headers on my C10 have ball and socket collectors, and the bolts come loose even with lock nuts.

Do you mean they are easy to take apart or they come loose while in use?

[pjmoreland]

Originally Posted by Richard

Do you mean they are easy to take apart or they come loose while in use?

They don't fall out or anything extreme like that. I tighten them firmly, and then the next time I check them, they are not firm. Occasionally, one bolt will be loose enough to spin by hand. I guess it doesn't really cause a problem, but it bugs me.

[Richard]

A 1970 914 came into the body shop for a complete. So my time has been taken up again. It is a small car so should be pretty quick, despite the structural metal fabrication I had to do in several rusted areas.
Got the exhaust fitted from the headers to behind t-case today. Think this is most likely the hardest part. Each header was pointed in different direction. A lot of fitting to get the pipes in. First time I have fabbed up an entire exhaust from scratch. The v-bands will make disassembly easy for final weld up.

[mr.mud1]

more great work as always.

[Richard]

Off today so I got at the exhaust again. Those 22" long 70 series muffs combined with the X-pipe is making install tight! Will get it in though.

[NDM]

Originally Posted by Richard

Off today so I got at the exhaust again. Those 22" long 70 series muffs combined with the X-pipe is making install tight! Will get it in though.

70 series? As in flowmaster? I went with 18 in long 4x9 magnaflows. I also did an H pipe since the x was going to require a ton of nonsense. Had I not been so excited to get to drive it, I would have taken time to do the x pipe. I did v bands to allow me to swap to an x pipe in the future. I am very curious how much different it would sound.

Fyi, I tig welded almost all of my exhaust but found a great mig wire for stainless that allow welding with the same mig gas that I use for steel. (308L wire) It has alot of spatter but if you basically cover the surrounding area it makes 304 exhaust welding much faster.

Mine is a driver and I always regretted the amount of time I spent tig welding the exhaust when it just ends up looking like a used exhaust pipe.

Don't get me wrong, it looks nice but ends up looking old anyways. If it was a show car then okay but mine are work horses.

[Richard]

Originally Posted by NDM

70 series? As in flowmaster? I went with 18 in long 4x9 magnaflows. I also did an H pipe since the x was going to require a ton of nonsense. Had I not been so excited to get to drive it, I would have taken time to do the x pipe. I did v bands to allow me to swap to an x pipe in the future. I am very curious how much different it would sound.

Fyi, I tig welded almost all of my exhaust but found a great mig wire for stainless that allow welding with the same mig gas that I use for steel. (308L wire) It has alot of spatter but if you basically cover the surrounding area it makes 304 exhaust welding much faster.

Mine is a driver and I always regretted the amount of time I spent tig welding the exhaust when it just ends up looking like a used exhaust pipe.

Don't get me wrong, it looks nice but ends up looking old anyways. If it was a show car then okay but mine are work horses.

Yes, Flowmaster "big block" muffler. Have had a single 3" on my 94 for 25 years and like it. Flowmaster chambered sound. They are pretty mild without the loud obnoxious characteristics of the 40-50 series. X pipe was put in just to try it. Never done it. Expecting the 72 to be a bit louder than the 94. But hopefully still pretty tame. As far as debate on straight though vs chambered. HP difference would probably be in the single digits. Engine is forced induction so I would bet difference between the two would be within margin of error.

Have a tig myself. Am doing the whole exhaust with my mig. All the tube is aluminized steel, not stainless. The sooted areas around the tack welds are from the coating burn off. Way I see it the 30 year old exhaust in the 94 has no rust and is steel. Prefer to spend the added cost of stainless elsewhere on my project.

While I look forward to sharing my truck at meetups and maybe a show or two. I am not building a show truck and do not consider it to be one.
Thank you for the comments.