Project: Montezuma

[D.B]

May70, Nice build and you're moving right along with it. Can you tell me what make, model and year the 14-bolt rear came out of and was it the same width as the rear you took out. I am asking because I have thought about doing something like this with my 72 C20 so I would have factory disc brakes. Thanks

[May70]

Originally Posted by D.B

May70, Nice build and you're moving right along with it. Can you tell me what make, model and year the 14-bolt rear came out of and was it the same width as the rear you took out. I am asking because I have thought about doing something like this with my 72 C20 so I would have factory disc brakes. Thanks

It came out of an 03/04 2500hd.

The 14 bolt is 3.5" wider, I will either leave it be or buy offset wheels for it.

[May70]

Just threw these on just to see. Intake is just in sealer so im thinking ill paint match it to matte black.

WHEW THAT IS PRETTY

[D.B]

Originally Posted by May70

It came out of an 03/04 2500hd.

The 14 bolt is 3.5" wider, I will either leave it be or buy offset wheels for it.

Thank you!!

[May70]

2017 LTZ seats pulled from a junkyard. Replaced one seat bottom frame, both bottom covers and custom made brackets. Installed aftermarket seat heaters and reworked the wiring harnesses. All electric adjustments are fully functional. Added new connectors. Going to down size the wheel and maybe go with a tilt. Did a youtube video on the process. Really happy. Time for the next phase!

14-19 truck/suv/suburban/tahoe seats. Full power is achievable by:
DS = Black (ground), Red/yellow stripe (primary power), red/brown stripe (aux power)
PS = Black (ground), red/ brown stripe (primary power).... no secondary power
*brown stripes might actually be black, its hard to tell for me, its a brownish black stripe color*
I removed all other unnecessary wires/air bags/sensors etc.

To get the middle jumper to flip back fully my tank is removed. If you're keeping in cab tank you can move middle seat forward but if you have a high hump you may run into issues.

Any taller than 5'10 you would probably want to modify pedals, other wise you could try a cts seat which is thinner backed. Thinner backed seats would allow more distance between seats and pedals. Even then id be cautious for the comfort of pedal operations.

I removed factory heat strips and installed universals which come in a kit from dorman. Factory heat strips could possibly be wired into an aftermarket thermistor/relay but I didnt mess with it. Rocker switches in the lower shroud as shown. Didnt want any holes in dash etc for those.

[Louisvillekytruck]

Great project

[May70]

Well after another long hiatus im back on it (hopefully and planned - to keep it going to completion here, ive got to get this thing done or at least back halfway assembled.

Last week or so ive been diving into the cab mainly but working on some other things. Trying to get this firewall closed back in with custom blower hole delete. This has taken time to do right.

Ended up panel bonding the bottom of the inner piece I fabricated and welded the top edge. That worked nicely. I just brushed on sealer because tomorrow I'm going to spread some filler on that panel. Once I make the custom piece to go on the outside, I wont be easily able to work that.

[Getter-Done]

Nice work as always.

[68Gold/white]

Look'n Good Billy Ray!!!

[May70]

Working on custom touches. Just taped up the outer piece for now. Didnt get to welding it in today

[Jason Banks]

Looking good!

The 2 times I've shaved the firewall, I body worked that whole thing at one time, and it seemed like a never ending project. Seems smarter to do the cowl part and then the firewall part like you are doing...

Looking where you have that hard vertical tape line in the primer on the cowl. Recently I have started backmasking things like that. Fold the masking tape over on itself partially and then stick it on. Much easier to sand that line out and doesn't take much longer.(on small areas like that) edit: like this - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ERWLJkbSqZw or much much more in depth - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rG0WlY9NgPk

[May70]

Thanks Jason, yeah i usually try not to do the hard tape lines but that whole section will need to be gone over on the top.

Got the outer piece and thru up some make shift protection from the welding and grinding ha ha.

Then I moved on to two sections that bulged out, I filled in the clutch linkage hole and straightened those out. Slow going and not perfect. Ill come back and fine tune if I can before bodywork.

[KMC3420]

Glad to see you back at it sir!! I too am working on plugging holes in my firewall. The old weld/grind/repeat song and dance. Nice progress. I bought some firewall plug pieces from speedway motor that fit the bill nicely for some of those holes I was too lazy to cut a plug out for.
Firewall Filler Pieces

[May70]

Thanks KMC ive been knocking quite a bit off the list. The firewall is a long drawn out task it feels like but im working my way across it.

Last few days in the shop I decided to make my own ls pedal bracket, along with still chugging on the firewall. I didnt really like what I saw online and there were pretty mixed reviews. I also didnt want to hold up progress so I made this bracket with nut rivets and 1/4" plate.

Seems like it will work perfectly and I can fine tune the final mounting after the truck is together without worrying about messing up nice paint/firewall work. Where I clamped it up looked to be in a good position and didnt hit the firewall or floor fully pressed. It also didnt flex at all which I read alot of the ones people are buying fabricated arent thick enough.

This bracket setup allowed me to delete the old linkage hole and welded nuts on the firewall. So im happy thats getting shaved too.

[KMC3420]

Gas pedal bracket looks like the ticket IMO. Unsure if you are going auto or manual, but have you determined all of the holes you are going to plug on your firewall? I need to do some digging of LS swaps and firewalls, see what others have left open for wiring and such.

[KMC3420]

This is the picture I had saved, unsure if even labeled correctly, but appears to be. My cab has more holes on the drivers side.

[KMC3420]

My cab. The picture above has 1 speedometer hole, but mine being a 68 might be a little different, as it has 3 holes.

[ryans69chevy]

Matt - watched your youtube video on the rocker and cab corner replacement. I'm working on mine. You did a pretty good job explaining and showing all the different areas of the rocker. Looks like you are a meticulous guy - which I think is needed for that type of job. I will probably be watching bits and pieces of it throughout my repair. Hopefully it turns out as well as you did yours. I also am I bit jealous of your cab dolly. My cab is on one as well, but it sits low to ground so doing my rockers and everything is going to be kneeling and laying on the floor.

[May70]

Starting paint and body on the bottom. 4 guys could flip lift it and set it on its back - that was harder than I thought. Were gunna have to do something different to get it back over without bending the cab corners. Hiding all the weld seams.

Just some progress pics. Planning on a very nice job top to bottom. Smoothing a lot out. Planning on painting the bottom the body color. Base/clear.

[Chevys4life]

It looks nice and right under there for sure!!!

[May70]

I forgot to post the other holes I filled on the firewall. So Ill do that now before it gets lost.

Im not too worried about how the inside looks. I wanted a good weld line for strength. Im thinking ill just put some seam sealer over those welds to somewhat clean it up. Will see. I should have sanded the inside of the firewall better before starting all this so we will see how I work around that issue. Worried about overheating paint and filler on the outside.