55.2-59 Duramax Task Force Panel

[FinnDiesel]

Here's the finished rear floor. Wire-wheeled original metal runners sprayed black and quickly wiped with lacquer thinner.

[leegreen]

wow, impressive body swap!

[FinnDiesel]

Fender Emblems

[FinnDiesel]

It's raining today so pulled the girl into the garage to install the windshield.

[B52bobardier1]

Looking very nice!!

Rick

[dsraven]

will you use a sealer under the rubber, against the outer sheet metal lip, to get a good water tight joint? I was thinking of doing that once I get to that part. on several task force trucks that I have taken the windshield out of there was either an obvious water leak in the lower corners, or there was some sort of sealer under the rubber, meaning there was a leak at some point. just curious what you think of that idea.I figure if i seal it with a window sealer, and the glass needs to come out for replacement, it can be scraped out once the glass is out and the rubber has been cut away or whatever. I would install the glass, drive it for a few trips to let it find it's happy place, then slip the end of a cauling tube under the rubber and squeeze in some sealer. maybe i am in dream world and it is a bad idea. dunno.

[FinnDiesel]

Ive been watching utoob videos for courage as my installer company bailed on me. The Precision brand rubber is a quality piece and their own video shows sealant on the install however all others like Brothers, show using foam glass cleaner.
I did one attempt last night but you can't see how the lower corners fit until its completely in. I undid it and moved the glass 1/8" to the passenger side and will try again this morning.

[FinnDiesel]

I couldn't imagine the mess sealer would make for a novice.

[leegreen]

based on youtube advice I used a butyl rubber at pinch weld and rubber cement at the glass

3 years on the rubber cement seemed to let go at a few places and my flat rear window developed a leak. Checking it over the rubber cement was not really sealing anywhere any more. I got the tip of caulking tube under the edge and added butyl rubber all the way around. yes, kinda messy, but you can clean it with paint thinner or wait a couple weeks then scrape it.

based on that experience, we did butly rubber on both sides putting glass into my son's '46 2 door

I'd consider polyurethane sealer/glue too. more permanent but harder to clean to replace glass in future. I am also a bit concerned that the glue might go off before the glass fully creeps into place, it seems the corners start to lay flatter after a few warm days.

Does TF glass overlap the pinch weld or sit edge-edge with it? I have seen some very nice glue in jobs online, but I think you need a bit of overlap.

[FinnDiesel]

The TF windshield sits butt-to-butt all around.
Man, I'll tell you, that was the single hardest job so far. 3 attempts.
I followed Precisions guidance the first 2 times, no way. I followed Brothers the 3rd, and thats the trick.
I had to put the rope so it pulls first from the top edge, not the bottom, and place the upper edge into the track first and go around a hundred times slapping and pushing inside and out and eventually it makes it way in - very slowly.
There is no way this install would have worked with sealant.
I will follow your advice and wait a couple of weeks for the foam cleaner to dry out and caulk behind with urethane.
I think I will now have arthritis just from all the glass slapping.

[FinnDiesel]

Originally Posted by leegreen

based on youtube advice I used a butyl rubber at pinch weld and rubber cement at the glass

3 years on the rubber cement seemed to let go at a few places and my flat rear window developed a leak. Checking it over the rubber cement was not really sealing anywhere any more. I got the tip of caulking tube under the edge and added butyl rubber all the way around. yes, kinda messy, but you can clean it with paint thinner or wait a couple weeks then scrape it.

based on that experience, we did butly rubber on both sides putting glass into my son's '46 2 door

I'd consider polyurethane sealer/glue too. more permanent but harder to clean to replace glass in future. I am also a bit concerned that the glue might go off before the glass fully creeps into place, it seems the corners start to lay flatter after a few warm days.

Does TF glass overlap the pinch weld or sit edge-edge with it? I have seen some very nice glue in jobs online, but I think you need a bit of overlap.

'46 2-door what?

[leegreen]

'46 Chevrolet 2 dr stylemaster sedan
It was barn find survivor car that became a stalled project until he got it. Now has MII front, Camaro rear, a T5 and the '54 261 it came with, as found patina with rattle can clearcoat. Believe it or not it is his all season car as his camaro is not good for winter
Redoing the curved rear window was nerve racking as they are unobtainable.

I don't envy you doing the TF windshield, it sounds like you did it solo, that would be amazing

[dsraven]

wow, one man install. impressive!
window fits into rubber groove which sits proud of the flange on the cab, correct? I think thats where some guys get messed up, trying too make the window fit too far into the cab.

[leegreen]

I'd changed my mind about including a picture before posting, but the picture came through anyway and I don't see how to delete it. Sorry if it feels like a threadjacking

[FinnDiesel]

all good @leegreen. Love to see it! is the rear glass rubber moulding still available?

[FinnDiesel]

@dsraven, the glass sits against the serrated base of the moulding and that sits tight on the ledge in front of the pinch weld. But it sure is beyond a snug fit. Every truck + every moulding + every glass being a bit different = makes it hard.

[leegreen]

Originally Posted by FinnDiesel

all good @leegreen. Love to see it! is the rear glass rubber moulding still available?

We used standard 2 piece stuff like the flat rear windows in our trucks use. I think you are out of luck if you wanted the style to hold chrome trim. The front windshield molding is available as that was the same for several years and across a few GM makes, both 2 and 4 door models.

[FinnDiesel]

Been playing with the shifter, really want something hot rod, long and original. One of my favourite cartoon characters, Squidwards' head is the perfect shape for the knob.
I grabbed one of the old '58 bearing caps and pounded it into shape over a trailer hitch ball in the vise and welded a long 1/2" nut into the middle. For the nose, eyes and brows, I just mig welded at low temp/hi wire speed for build up and ground smooth. Painted it up, it looks amazing! Kind of like a new Rat Fink character.
Here are the various shifter sticks I am contemplating - the left of course is the factory '01 ZF6, the next is the '58 shifter, next is '58 emergency brake handle, and the right is th '58 pto handle.

[FinnDiesel]

Here's the dash in place - I urethaned the DURAMAX letters to the dash - and the 'D' and 'R' hide two 1/4" bolts holding the dash down.
Here's the same emblem letters on the rear door.
Attached the wipers. Urethaned behind the weather-stripping and getting ready to bring the girl for its out-of-province inspection. Can't wait to see the puzzled look in their faces. . .
Checked all the safety items, lights, emergency brake, fluids etc.

[FinnDiesel]

Here's the 3 original levers in the cockpit before I started chopping.

[FinnDiesel]

Thanks for turning the photos @Rickysnickers !

[Rickysnickers]

No worries. Keep up the good work!

[leegreen]

awesome truck. good luck with the inspection!

[dsraven]

I noticed in another thread you mention possibly doing an extended cab AD build on a TF frame.
here is a site that may help you with dimensions etc

https://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.co...esto/index.htm

[FinnDiesel]

Originally Posted by leegreen

awesome truck. good luck with the inspection!

Thanks! fingers crossed - booked in for Thursday.