72 C10 shop truck

[richard2717]

I sold my red/white 69 that was supposed to be the shop truck but while working on that one, I had a WTB for a bed and door for it. A local guy responded saying he had them but had to take the whole truck. Rearend was fried in it and it had been sitting many years ( wife wanted it gone). Truck turned out to be in a lot better shape than the 69 I was working on so I bought it and brought it home. I took a 6 lug rear I had sitting here and put it in while still sitting in his driveway so it would at least roll on the trailer. He had it sitting on stands with the rear torn apart in the bed. He had all new drums and brake hardware sitting in the front floor of the truck so I will be putting all of that in the 5 lug rear I got from another truck. I had to get the 6 lug rear out of it yesterday (sold it to someone local) so already had the stuff here to get the 5 lug put in enough to keep it rolling. It may come back out in order to get it all cleaned up and painted but the bed will be off at that point. I installed 2" lowering blocks in it and I think it sits about where I want it to.

I have all new stainless brake & fuel lines to go in the truck along with quite a few new parts I have been rounding up as well.

This one has some rust in it but nothing like the 69 had. Needs drivers side partial floor pan, drivers side cab supports (and they are not really too bad) inner and outer rockers, one cab corner needs some repair so far.

The bed is not in real bad shape but I have a complete new bed here that I need to move so it is going on this truck and I will sell this one eventually.

Both doors are in real good shape, small silver dollar size patch on outside and passenger door needs a small spot fixed where the sill plate was rotten and set against it. I vacuumed the sill plate completely out of the cab and then removed the hold down screws thats how rotten it was. Thankfully the rubber floor mat kept the floor from going south. It is not often to find a floor in this good of shape on the east coast.

Passenger fender was impacted at some point. it also has some minor rust on the bottom same as the driver side rust. Hood was also damaged. Will likely just replace fenders, hood and grill with new aftermarket.

Engine & transmission was supposed to be running when parked, but it has been sitting long enough I may just put a blueprint in it if money allows.

I had not planned to start this one until I got the Blazer done but having to bring it in to swap rears made me start cleaning it up to better assess condition. Nothing about it will be quick I am sure. I have been fighting a neck/ shoulder injury for months and since it is a bit better I don't want to re-injure them.

Posting pics from the day I got it home and then following up with some from todays session.


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[CG]

Lucky truck to find you. We know you'll do it up right.

[richard2717]

more pics from dy I got it. The pinion gear was trashed with torch as was the front of the housing. Scraped all of it.


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[richard2717]

pics from today in no particular order


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[richard2717]

6-10 pics


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[richard2717]

11-15 pics


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[richard2717]

16-20


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[richard2717]

21-25 pics
There is enough thinning in the drivers side I am going to cut it out and put a partial pan in it

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[richard2717]

26-30

This is the 1st one I have owned with the vented gas tank so took pics of everything. Going to put a new tank in it. This one is all varnished up and corroded inside.


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[richard2717]

I think 2" puts it low enough for me. I have a set of 2" dropped spindles here I might put on the front.

Even the trailing arms are in good shape on this truck.

I have to go thru my pile of quadrajets and see if I have any that are good and right for this truck if I keep this engine.

I am assuming this overflow tank is not original.

Definitely needs a new brass heater core.


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[richard2717]

I have all new bushings for the trailing arms and panhard bar as well as new cab mounts that will go on it when time comes

[richard2717]

got most of the front clip removed yesterday. I figured the lower A pillars would be toast and I was correct. There is also 2 very minor rust thru spots on the inner cowl that I will have to address. It was full of leaves and dirt so I was expecting the worst but was pleasantly surprised.


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[richard2717]

full front clip removed. Pulled truck outside. Sprayed degreaser liberally and power washed everything up on the front half of the truck.

Trying to decide if I am going to put 2" lowering spindles on now or not since I put blocks in the back.


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[richard2717]

Took the bed off yesterday and got all of the undercoating cleaned off the rear half of the frame. hoping for decent enough weather tomorrow to break out the sand blaster and clean it up smooth. Will epoxy and then spray urethane satin black on it all.


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[richard2717]

before taking the bed off I put the truck back on the ground and noticed that the rear of the truck with 2" lowering blocks was dragging ass compared to the front. I don't think the front clip made that much of a weight difference but I sat a 300 lb beam on the front horns to mimic it anyway. I had to jack the rear of the truck just shy of 4" off the ground before the body line on the door read level. I have a set of HD rear springs here I am going to swap with the originals to try and bring it back up level. I am pretty sure the og springs are worn out because the po had coil spacers in them that I cut out when I swapped the newer rear in.

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The HD spring is much thicker than the og

[Shifty One]

I'm in! (for the build)

[richard2717]

Had a decent couple of days here so broke out the sandblaster and fired up both compressors to keep up with the blaster. Dropped the rear, trailing arms and anything else that was bolted on so I could clean the frame up nice. As is par for the course, I ran out of sand. I figured 4 bags would be enough. Nope no big deal I will pick some up this week. 2 years ago it was $15 per bag, I hate to see how much it has gone up.

What I did get done, cleaned up nice. Still have to do the rear, trailing arms, coil springs and upper shock mounts as well as a little more on the front cross member. Supposed to rain the next few days so hoping I don't get much flash rust on what i have done. It will be inside the shop so fingers crossed.

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[richard2717]

also noticed the DS cab corner has already been replaced once, and not very good. I will cut it out and replace it as well. I knew the passenger side needed some work. It is original corner and still had all the factory sealant inside down in the well plugging it up. Usually by the time I get one of these it is already in Flintstone mode.

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[richard2717]

Forgot I had a couple new cans of POR-15 sitting here so decided to get them used up. Brand spanking new can never been opened and damn near had to chisel the lid off of it. got the back half all done. Pulled the engine & trans as well (should have done it before now)

Now to watch paint dry


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[Getter-Done]

Originally Posted by richard2717

Forgot I had a couple new cans of POR-15 sitting here so decided to get them used up. Brand spanking new can never been opened and damn near had to chisel the lid off of it. got the back half all done. Pulled the engine & trans as well (should have done it before now)

Now to watch paint dry


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I have had the same thing happen.

I put saran wrap on unused cans and it works well.

But Who knew.

If a New can sits around for a while they would Weld Shut.

[raggedjim]

Originally Posted by richard2717

Forgot I had a couple new cans of POR-15 sitting here so decided to get them used up. Brand spanking new can never been opened and damn near had to chisel the lid off of it. got the back half all done. Pulled the engine & trans as well (should have done it before now)

Been there, bought a few glass canning jars with the replaceable center section, put a layer of vasilene on the seal and store it in the jar. Has been working so far.

[richard2717]

Weather not been cooperating, lot of rain this week but did manage to get the rear blasted on Friday afternoon. put a coat of paint on it yesterday. Sun is finally coming out today so will try to get the springs and trailing arms blasted and painted this afternoon.

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I have had an old Coats 40/40 tire machine for a couple years now. It was getting to where I had to help it along doing any of the 16" or bias ply tire removals. I came across a local Gov Deals auction that had a picture of a newer 40/40 that looked in real good shape. When I opened the auction I realized there were actually 2 machines in the auction. The other was a 5030 rim clamp machine. Since I was only familiar with the old style 40/40 machines I figured I would watch some youtube video of the 5030. Everything about it seemed easier to use. I put in my max bid, which I did not figure would even get me the 40/40 much less both of them, and walked away. Came out the next morning and had an email that I won. I was expecting the worst since my bid was not what I considered a winning bid for 2 working machines. I went and picked them up Thursday afternoon and brought them home. I did not get a chance to do anything with them until yesterday and to my surprise they both work very well. I am going to keep the 5030 and have put the pair of 40/40's for sale.

It seems like the 5030 takes up a lot less floor space as well even though it really is not that much smaller footprint.

[richard2717]

Finished blasting the trailing arms and other stuff and put a coat of POR-15 on them today. Went to order a bunch of stuff from Rock Auto and got looking at the shipping. 12 items being sent from 7 different warehouses if I place the order. Going to Napa tomorrow to price compare before hitting order.










Glad I took a look at the driveshaft as well. When I bought the truck, the rear had been removed for several years and the truck was sitting on jack stands on the blacktop driveway. He did not completely pull the shaft and left it hanging from the center bearing with the u joint sitting on the ground. Leaves and dirt built up around it enough over the years that the joint was caked up with crud and there was a lot of rust on the end of the shaft. I smacked it on the concrete floor a few times to break it up. Glad I did, this is what the shaft looks like now. Would hate to have found that after replacing everything. Thankfully I have several spares from trucks parted. Going to put all new joints and carrier bearing in then put some paint on that as well.





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[richard2717]

Looks like order for Rock Auto even with $67 shipping from 7 warehouses. Rock is at $303 for everything I need with shipping. Napa for the same exact parts $573.13 and they still had to order half of what I needed. I can see charging more for convenience and working local but not at double the price and still having to wait.

[Getter-Done]

Originally Posted by richard2717

Looks like order for Rock Auto even with $67 shipping from 7 warehouses. Rock is at $303 for everything I need with shipping. Napa for the same exact parts $573.13 and they still had to order half of what I needed. I can see charging more for convenience and working local but not at double the price and still having to wait.

I do the same study on purchases like this.

I also have the same mindset about (Trying too) Buying local first.

My issue with Rock is the (Zero human communication).

I made an order years ago and my printer was old,
and I did not get a label printed in time to make the return deadline and lost money on an item,
I needed to return.

I would probably still buy from them if last option.

Just my 67cents.