Another '63 Restomod Build

[0ldSoul]

..for now I decided these uppers designed to add up to five degrees of caster while providing full wheel travel should do the trick.

[SCOTI]

I never saw anything construction wise that looked 'different' as far as geometry on their uppers.

Could you get a pic of one of those uppers paired next to the same side OE arm for a visual reference before you get farther along?

[0ldSoul]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

I never saw anything construction wise that looked 'different' as far as geometry on their uppers.

Could you get a pic of one of those uppers paired next to the same side OE arm for a visual reference before you get farther along?

Yikes, I hope that's not the case. We're about to head out to camp, but I'll get a side by side comparison when we're back.

[SCOTI]

I can see where the Caster gain is on the lowers but not the uppers.

[0ldSoul]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

I can see where the Caster gain is on the lowers but not the uppers.

Here's a few pictures. It's not significant, but the geometry is different where the ball joint mounts.

[SkinnyG]

That angle allows you to air out without locking the upper balljoint. I pie-cut my own uppers to do just that.

Show us a picture of both arms as viewed from above - so we can see the "A" shape of both. That will show the geometry change if any.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by SkinnyG

That angle allows you to air out without locking the upper balljoint. I pie-cut my own uppers to do just that.

Show us a picture of both arms as viewed from above - so we can see the "A" shape of both. That will show the geometry change if any.

^^ This exactly. ^^

[0ldSoul]

Originally Posted by SkinnyG

That angle allows you to air out without locking the upper balljoint. I pie-cut my own uppers to do just that.

Show us a picture of both arms as viewed from above - so we can see the "A" shape of both. That will show the geometry change if any.

Originally Posted by SCOTI

^^ This exactly. ^^

Gotcha, right on. Thanks for the info! I'll grab another picture in a bit.

[0ldSoul]

Alright, so I tried to line it up as best as I could. What do you guys think?

[SkinnyG]

If the balljoint location is moved back a bit, you are indeed getting more caster (yay!). If it appears to be in the same location, these arms only allow for a lower ride height (still yay!). It _appears_ that the ball joint is further back.

Small movement is a significant improvement in making these trucks "handle" a whole lot better.

Are you moving the lower arm forward at all?

[0ldSoul]

Originally Posted by SkinnyG

If the balljoint location is moved back a bit, you are indeed getting more caster (yay!). If it appears to be in the same location, these arms only allow for a lower ride height (still yay!). It _appears_ that the ball joint is further back.

Small movement is a significant improvement in making these trucks "handle" a whole lot better.

Are you moving the lower arm forward at all?

Thanks for the info. I wasn't thinking of moving the lowers.

I found an old thread where the shafts were re-drilled to move them forward and increase caster. Is that what you're referring to or is there another way?

[SkinnyG]

That is the way.

I drilled two new locator holes on my '77 (shown below), but you may only need to drill one.



I only drilled one (per bar) on my '61 (73-87 arms modified for 88-98 ball joints, and to clear Fox Mustang rack):



The '77 - note the spacing of the arm on the crossmember - arms is moved forward about 3/4":

[0ldSoul]

Originally Posted by SkinnyG

That is the way.

I only drilled one (per bar) on my '61 (73-87 arms modified for 88-98 ball joints, and to clear Fox Mustang rack):

Looks good! ..and relatively easy. How did you go about drilling it? The thread mentioned taking the shafts to a machine shop.

..besides drilling a new hole, everything else was pretty straight forward? Just simply moved it forward that 3/4"?

[SkinnyG]

Pretty straight forward. I usually have to beat a bit of the crossmember edge in to make sure there is full range of movement. There are a variety of threads here on doing this - that's how I learned of the mod.

You could carefully measure, and then work your way up in drill bits to final size. I don't remember what size exactly, but you can buy a deming bit that will work. It's just steel, there is no magic here. The bigger the bit, the less fun they are to drill. I.... have a milling machine....

[SCOTI]

The CPP lower arms are where the geometry change is. They did this same mod to their lower arms.

[0ldSoul]

The brackets arrived

generously 8.5" wide so the bags don't make contact
all 3/16" except for the rings on the drop pockets, those are 1/4"

[SCOTI]

If you're going to move the lower stock arms, mock things up to make sure all parts are happy once in place.

[0ldSoul]

Not going to move the lower arms for now.. mostly because I plan to eventually replace the front end with a drop member and Porterbuilt control arms

Christmas gift from my brother
a Lincoln 180i MP DV!!

[0ldSoul]

Got the new ball joints pressed in.. got this done now since a buddy let me borrow his press kit
I went a bit deeper while drilling out the butt welds so I had to tack weld some material in


.. then it was time to trace the template for the air ride drop pockets




I was cautious, leaving quite a bit to grind away but I wanted to ensure a tight fit.

[0ldSoul]

Happy with the fitment

[0ldSoul]

After not welding anything for a couple of years, I began by practicing on some scrap 3/16 metal, got back into the groove, and started burning these brackets on

[SCOTI]

Looking good.

[cj847]

nice welds!

[0ldSoul]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Looking good.

Thanks

Originally Posted by cj847

nice welds!

[0ldSoul]

Not a crazy update, but an update none-the-less

Winter's harsh in Las Vegas