![]() |
Register or Log In To remove these advertisements. |
|
|
|
|||||||
![]() |
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
|
#1 |
|
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Dec 2022
Location: Peoria, Arizona
Posts: 684
|
K20 Driveshaft Question
Hi all,
I just finished installing a 4” lift in my ‘67 K20 and I noticed that there is a noticeable angle in my 2 piece driveshaft at the carrier bearing. Is this ok, or do I need to shim the carrier bearing down? I don’t notice any vibrations but after about a 25 mile test drive my pinion seal is now leaking. Any thoughts or advice? Thanks, Clay
__________________
Clayton Sikes Peoria, Arizona 1967 Chevy K20 "The Town Truck" Build Thread: https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=841272 |
|
|
|
|
|
#2 |
|
All about them K’s
![]() Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Land of Entrapment
Posts: 6,975
|
Re: K20 Driveshaft Question
Did the 67-69 t221 trucks have carriers? Both of mine have NP205’s and 1 piece driveshafts. For what it’s worth My K2500 has a carrier and with a 6” lift it has a drop bracket to lower the carrier a couple inches. It probably wouldn’t hurt to lower it some. The drop on my truck is a couple smaller pieces of C channel bolted together.
Got any pics of the truck together after the lift? I bet it looks killer!
__________________
Tyler '57 3100 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=813888 '72 K20 Cheyenne: 5” lift, 35’s, front dana 60 blah blah blah… http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=662879 ‘69 K10 SWB: 4” lift 33”s… in a million pieces http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=805206 '98 Silverado LT K2500HD ECLB Vortec 454/4l80E: 6" lift 35x12.5x20’s |
|
|
|
|
|
#3 | |
|
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Dec 2022
Location: Peoria, Arizona
Posts: 684
|
Re: K20 Driveshaft Question
Quote:
Yeah, it came from the factory with the 2 piece driveshaft and carrier bearing. I have read that it should be lowered 1/4" per 1" of lift....but not sure how accurate that is. Here is a quick picture of it lifted and in the garage. I still need to get her all dolled up and take some pictures outdoors. She is now sporting a 4" lift and 295/75/R16 Nitto Ridge Grapplers. Clay
__________________
Clayton Sikes Peoria, Arizona 1967 Chevy K20 "The Town Truck" Build Thread: https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=841272 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#4 | |
|
just can't cover up my redneck
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Columbus OH
Posts: 11,431
|
Re: K20 Driveshaft Question
That certainly doesn't look bad. As long as everything is good lengthwise, and no vibration, it will be fine. You don't want the driveline to be straight anyway.
If there is no movement in the joint, the needles just beat against the same place, wearing into the surfaces of the cross. The tapered blocks have tilted the pinion up, be sure there is some angularity there too. The point of the joints is to make up for movement of the suspension and misalignment, straight is not good there either. The pinion seal leak is a conundrum. It could be entirely coincidental. Has the fluid level changed as a result of this? Possibly blocked vent during the process?
__________________
You can review the site's rules here. Quote:
Bad planning on your part does not necessarily constitute an instant emergency on my part.... The great thing about being a pessimist is that you are either pleasantly surprised or right.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
#5 | |
|
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Dec 2022
Location: Peoria, Arizona
Posts: 684
|
Re: K20 Driveshaft Question
Quote:
Regarding the driveline angles, it would appear that there is ~ 3.5* difference between the pinion angle and the angle of the yoke on the transfer case. Do you think this is a cause for concern? Lastly, when I installed the lift blocks, I put them on top of what appears to be factory shims. I have no idea what degree they are, but they are about 1/4" high on the side facing the transfer case and about 1/8" or so thick on the side facing the rear of the truck. These were original to the truck, so I put them back on, but are they supposed to be there with the lift blocks? Clay
__________________
Clayton Sikes Peoria, Arizona 1967 Chevy K20 "The Town Truck" Build Thread: https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=841272 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#6 |
|
All about them K’s
![]() Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Land of Entrapment
Posts: 6,975
|
Re: K20 Driveshaft Question
If the factory shims are thinner to the back than they should be pushing the pinion down and making your angles worse. I would remove them and re check the angles. Normally the lift blocks are cut the opposite way and will bring the pinion up. You want it to basically point at the output yoke on the transfer case. It shouldn’t be noticeably up or down.
Your truck is beautiful by the way! Really nice work!
__________________
Tyler '57 3100 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=813888 '72 K20 Cheyenne: 5” lift, 35’s, front dana 60 blah blah blah… http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=662879 ‘69 K10 SWB: 4” lift 33”s… in a million pieces http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=805206 '98 Silverado LT K2500HD ECLB Vortec 454/4l80E: 6" lift 35x12.5x20’s |
|
|
|
|
|
#7 |
|
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Redwood City, CA
Posts: 1,199
|
Re: K20 Driveshaft Question
^X2^ the lift and your wheel/tire combo look great!
__________________
66 GMC Suburban Custom 66 Chevy K10 Suburban |
|
|
|
![]() |
| Bookmarks |
|
|