55.2-59 Can you run the Power Disc Brakes w/ Clutch Pedals?

[wesmigletz]

I recently picked up a 55 2nd Design. It was originally an automatic, but I would like to convert it to a manual trans.

From what I could find for the disc brake power booster/MC combos, it looks like they only work with auto trans. Are there any available kits that work with manual trans?

Are there any brake kits you would recommend or avoid? What about the firewall mount booster/MC combos?

Thanks in advance

[nvrdone]

I don't know if this helps, but I have power brakes in my '49 with an m21 and I was told it couldn't be done because of clearance issues. The m/c & booster mount under the floor using the stock linkage. If you can find an original clutch / brake pedal set up it should be an easy swap

[mick53]

I have this for my 53 3100. power brakes. Hydraulic clutch master. I plan on switching everything to Wilwood.

[wesmigletz]

Originally Posted by nvrdone

I don't know if this helps, but I have power brakes in my '49 with an m21 and I was told it couldn't be done because of clearance issues. The m/c & booster mount under the floor using the stock linkage. If you can find an original clutch / brake pedal set up it should be an easy swap

That sounds good. I was looking at ebay to piece all the stock clutch linkage parts. I have a mid-80s MY6 4 spd OD I want to run.

Are you using an 8" booster?

[wesmigletz]

Originally Posted by mick53

I have this for my 53 3100. power brakes. Hydraulic clutch master. I plan on switching everything to Wilwood.

Where did you find that? Did it fit your truck OK?

[nvrdone]

Yes I do have an 8" booster, If you are interested I think I can find the part numbers and vendors.

[nvrdone]

This is an under floor mount using the stock pedals

[mick53]

Originally Posted by wesmigletz

Where did you find that? Did it fit your truck OK?

I don't remember where I got it and I haven't tried it yet. If I use it I will probably alter it. I'm doing a lot of chassis work. I'm boxing the chassis and my 292 needs to be moved back 7" or so. If you want I can look on the box for markings. I'm more interested in the master cylinders mounting part of it.

[dsraven]

there are lots of guys out there running power brakes with standard trans in 55-59 chevy trucks. if i were you I would do a little research on this site into whats available with these options. it kinda depends on what you want and where you want to put it. there are a few builds on here who use a hydroboost system, instead of the vacuum booster, because they give a better boost and are smaller than the vacuum chamber, so they give more room under the floor for other things like clutch linkage etc. there are also a few who have installed the bracket on the frame, that connects to the pedals, but instead of bolting the master cylinder to that bracket, like usual, they have made another bracket for the master cylinder and mounted the master cylinder further back on the frame, using an extended pushrod length to connect those parts. the hydroboost will need hydraulic hoses connected to a power steering pump, of course, but they work well whether you have a low vacuum engine, a diesel, or whatever. you would, of course, be required to build a few things. mostly these builds have used a hydroboost sourced from a donor vehicle and then modified the input pushrod, from the pedal, to work with their new design. mustangs and astro vans are popular donors. check out ogre's build for his how to if you're interested. you could do the same idea with a vacuum booster but mostly, in that scenarion, you would be looking to move the vacuum booster out of the way

[dsraven]

this is ogre's build thread, or you could pm him and see if he has info to share, if you are interested in going thaty route
https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=501998

[mick53]

Originally Posted by dsraven

there are lots of guys out there running power brakes with standard trans in 55-59 chevy trucks. if i were you I would do a little research on this site into whats available with these options. it kinda depends on what you want and where you want to put it. there are a few builds on here who use a hydroboost system, instead of the vacuum booster, because they give a better boost and are smaller than the vacuum chamber, so they give more room under the floor for other things like clutch linkage etc. there are also a few who have installed the bracket on the frame, that connects to the pedals, but instead of bolting the master cylinder to that bracket, like usual, they have made another bracket for the master cylinder and mounted the master cylinder further back on the frame, using an extended pushrod length to connect those parts. the hydroboost will need hydraulic hoses connected to a power steering pump, of course, but they work well whether you have a low vacuum engine, a diesel, or whatever. you would, of course, be required to build a few things. mostly these builds have used a hydroboost sourced from a donor vehicle and then modified the input pushrod, from the pedal, to work with their new design. mustangs and astro vans are popular donors. check out ogre's build for his how to if you're interested. you could do the same idea with a vacuum booster but mostly, in that scenarion, you would be looking to move the vacuum booster out of the way

Excellent information. Hydroboost is nice if you have a pump but I'm running EPAS Performance electric P/S. I'm also running a MP scroll vacuum pump because of my 6-71. I'm also using a hydraulic throw out bearing to make some room for my exhaust. I'm just throwing some options out there.

[dsraven]

I was gonna suggest the hydraulic release brg too, but my post was already a small book. Lol.
Thanks mick53

[mick53]

Originally Posted by dsraven

I was gonna suggest the hydraulic release brg too, but my post was already a small book. Lol.
Thanks mick53

It's a good book though. I have the same problem. Every time I proof read it I add something.

[mr48chev]

As Nvrdone said it can be done pretty simply using stock pedals and a bracket similar to this one with the booster and master cylinder mounted to it. Not fun to fill but one could set it up with a remote reservoir under the hood if so desired.

The clutch in my F250 has a rod that runs straight down from the pedal through the foot board to a bell crank on the bellhousing that in turn works a bell crank that pushes the pushrod that works the clutch fork. Reasonably simple and probably easy to find if you can stand the ugliness of the booster and master cylinder on the firewall blocking most of the view of the engine you put so much effort in.

[dsraven]

here is a build thread where the owner built a frame mounted hydroboost but mounted the actual boost and master cyl units back along the frame further. check post 54, for the bracket unit he purchased, then the rest of the fab starts around post 73 somewhere. a vacuum booster could also be placed remotely using the same build process but i would recommend an electric vacuum pump or a vacuum storage cannister, with check valves etc
kim57 is the member
https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=283107

[leegreen]

I rolled my own firewall setup using C10 pedal box, generic 8" dual diaphragm booster and master. Clutch master from an older ford courier as it looked like it would work and did. Other than some measuring and fiddling it wasn't hard.
slave was 90s gm EXEDY SC708 mounted to a plate bolted to bellhousing bolts
c10 bellhousing, fork and throw-out will work with most any GM transmission

For me the trade off between cluttering up the firewall vs seeing your survival critical brake components every time you open the hood was also influenced by a frame swap that did not come with any pedal provisions and a floor replacement that did not have holes for pedals.

if you go with under floor setup, I'd go remote reservoir. You can get a cheap billet cover for typical GM style master off amazon or ebay, drill and tap for hose barb. A plastic reservoir (lots online) has usefully visible fluid level. Go with a reliable source for the hoses as the stuff from ch**a is likely to swell and leak.

[dsraven]

No clutch on mine but booster is under hood. That said, less people are looking under yhe hood these days and especially on frame swap extended cab daily driver. Haha.
OP, do you have decision made on what you will do?

[wesmigletz]

Originally Posted by nvrdone

Yes I do have an 8" booster, If you are interested I think I can find the part numbers and vendors.

Thank you nvrdone, I think I can find something comparable.

I got a whole lot of info to review in this thread now...

[wesmigletz]

Originally Posted by dsraven

I was gonna suggest the hydraulic release brg too, but my post was already a small book. Lol.
Thanks mick53

dsraven, I appreciate all the information!

[wesmigletz]

Originally Posted by mick53

It's a good book though. I have the same problem. Every time I proof read it I add something.

No complaints from me, I appreciate your input

[dsraven]

No problem. I know it can be hard to get a good combination of assembled parts that will work well together. Try to match up your brake rotor sizes and caliper types so you will have less trouble setting it up for bias when done. I have seen a lot of stuff that got assembled with parts from here and there and then there were issues with rear tires skidding.

[wesmigletz]

Originally Posted by dsraven

No clutch on mine but booster is under hood. That said, less people are looking under yhe hood these days and especially on frame swap extended cab daily driver. Haha.
OP, do you have decision made on what you will do?

No, I haven't. I'm going to do some more thinking on it. I'm going to piece together the clutch parts I need for a manual trans. I'm wanting to keep it somewhat simple and fix what needs fixed to get it on the road, it's been sitting since 1985. Then, once I'm driving it, adjust fire from there.

[wesmigletz]

https://wesleymigletz.smugmug.com/Ga...2-PM/i-gbbDGTz



Not sure why my images aren't showing

[dsraven]

You might think about a pedal set from something already built. Mine was from a gmc envoy donor. No clutch on these but it sandwiches between the firewall nicely. I used the whole panel that bolts to the firewall. I'll send a pic once I can use my tablet later this evening. Can't see the tiny pics on my phone.

[wesmigletz]

Originally Posted by dsraven

No problem. I know it can be hard to get a good combination of assembled parts that will work well together. Try to match up your brake rotor sizes and caliper types so you will have less trouble setting it up for bias when done. I have seen a lot of stuff that got assembled with parts from here and there and then there were issues with rear tires skidding.

Yep, I understand. Trying to figure out which way I'm gonna go before throwing too much $$$ at it.