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#1 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2025
Location: Monmouth, OR
Posts: 7
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Some carb advice for a new guy.
I recently bought a 1968 GMC with the 283 Small block.
It has a 650 cfm Holley 4165 double pumper. The first issue is the manual choke on it was broken at some point and the PO wired it closed. Once I got it home I had to take care of some things on it before I could drive it so it ended up sitting for about 3 months. I finally finished stuff up this weekend and got it running and driving again, but it was very hard to keep it running at first, it would only run for a couple of seconds at a time, then fire back up if you pumped the pedal then started it. After a couple of different tries I noticed it was running longer each time and after about 5 attempts spaced 45 minutes or so apart it would run and idle fine. After a short drive I turned it off and it would not start again, when I looked there was fuel puddled on top of the manifold. I tapped the bowls with a wrench, thinking a float might be stuck. Let it sit for an hour or so and then it fired right up and drove fine (no fuel on top of manifold). So now my questions: 1.) I assume that the carb got a bit gunky or sticky from sitting for a couple of months. Does that seem reasonable given the description? 2.) does anyone know of a replacement manual choke kit for the 4165, or know if the one from Holley that lists the 4300, 4150, and 4160 will work with this carb? (the guy n Holley tech support did not seem to think it would work) 3.) a lot of my research indicates that the stock 283 would be happier with something in the 400-500 CFM range instead of the 650. I would like to hear thoughts on this as well. I think it will cost around $140 for the choke replacement and a rebuild kit. If a smaller carb would be better in general, then maybe replacement is a better route? My plan for the truck is to try to get it to a good reliable driving state and have fun cruising it, not looking for fast, or lots of power. Low and slow is my style. |
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#2 |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Waverly, NE
Posts: 562
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Re: Some carb advice for a new guy.
The problem keeping it running when cold is because you don't have a working choke system. It exists for a reason. If that 283 is stock, that is a fairly large carb for the engine but with a working choke should be able to be made to work. A vacuum secondary carb would be more forgiving in the driveability arena. Given how you want to drive and use it and if you want to keep this carb, make sure the secondaries aren't opening until fairly late in the primaries range of motion. Wouldn't hurt to have a good fuel filter involved in the fuel system. Do you know what jets and power valve are in the carb?
__________________
1965 Malibu SS L79 Restoration Page 2004 Torrid Red GTO Preservation Page 2006 Brazen Orange GTO Preservation Page Rich Cummings Last edited by Rich69shortfleet; 01-21-2026 at 01:35 PM. |
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#3 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Bowser
Posts: 13,973
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Re: Some carb advice for a new guy.
Pic of your carb and choke really would help.
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#4 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2025
Location: Monmouth, OR
Posts: 7
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Re: Some carb advice for a new guy.
This is the side of the carb where the choke would be attached. the cable is still there going in to the cab, but the carb side has just a tiny bit of wire left at the end of the cable and is not hooked up.
The second picture is a closeup and you can see where the choke is zip tied open. |
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#5 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Bowser
Posts: 13,973
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Re: Some carb advice for a new guy.
You’re missing enough parts to warrant getting a new carb.
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#6 |
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Ram-A-Lam-A-Ding-Dong
![]() Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Simi Valley, CA
Posts: 11,899
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Re: Some carb advice for a new guy.
^ Yup!
__________________
~Steven '70 Chevy 3/4T Longhorn CST 402/400/3.56 Custom Camper Simi Valley, CA |
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#7 |
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Moderator
![]() Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: ON, Canada
Posts: 2,246
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Re: Some carb advice for a new guy.
Too much carb for that little 283.
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#8 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2025
Location: Monmouth, OR
Posts: 7
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Re: Some carb advice for a new guy.
Besides the choke, what else are you seeing missing?
A lot of people seem to like the Edelbrock 1404 for the smaller engines, that is the direction I am leaning. |
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#9 |
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The Niner
![]() Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Broad Brook, CT
Posts: 2,589
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Re: Some carb advice for a new guy.
A 500 cfm carb would be a good fit for a 283. A 650 is too much carb for that engine.
__________________
"A good racer is one whose head is in communication with his balls." - Richie Evans 1970 C/20 - 402/TH400/3.54s - 74K miles 2003 GMC Sierra 2500 - Wheatland Yellow Niner Progression Thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=697183 Classic Trucks article: https://www.motortrend.com/features/...et-c20-driven/ |
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#10 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Bowser
Posts: 13,973
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Re: Some carb advice for a new guy.
Quote:
I’d steer clear of an edelbrock unless you really want to learn a bunch more about carb heat, fuel pressures, secondary bogging etc. I’d go with a Holley 600. It’s a vac secondary so not to big. Like this. https://www.ebay.ca/itm/358098653001 |
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#11 |
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Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: North Texas
Posts: 4,035
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Re: Some carb advice for a new guy.
FYI, the carb is a Q-jet replacement. There seem to be lots of different list numbers. What's really confusing in the exploded view below shows a secondary pump diaphragm, but also vacuum secondary housing, diaphragm, lever, etc. Below is some Holley documentation. Figure 1 shows you where the "list number" is stamped. That will give you further info on that specific carb.
https://documents.holley.com/199r8340-1rev.pdf On another note: Yes, a stock 283 needs nowhere near 650cfm. However, I'm not sure your secondaries are even working! Holley does make a rebuild kit for your carb, but it doesn't include any external parts that may be missing. If that's a Q-jet manifold, you will need an adapter plate for a square bore carb. And I would be leery about buying a Chinesium Holley rip-off.
__________________
Mike 1969 Custom/10 LWB -- owned for 37 years. 350/TH350, 3.08 posi, recent AAW wiring harness, 5-lug conversion, 1985 spindles and brakes. Hedman stainless headers. Old Air installation in progress. 1982 Custom Deluxe 10 SWB -- converted from 250-six to roller cam 350 w/ Vortec heads -- sold 1981 C10 Silverado LWB, 305, TH350C -- sold, but wish I still had it! 1969 C10 (not the current one) which I bought in the early 1980s. Paid $1200; sold for $1500 a few years later. Just a hint at the appreciation that was coming. Retired as a factory automation products salesman. Worked part-time over the years for an engine builder and a classic car repair shop. Member here for 26 years! This is the very first car/truck Internet forum I joined. I still used a dial-up modem back then! Last edited by MikeB; 01-21-2026 at 01:17 PM. |
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#12 |
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Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: North Texas
Posts: 4,035
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Re: Some carb advice for a new guy.
Just found this, which should help you to determine what is missing: It's several photos of a 4165 series, list 0-6210 carb. It's clearly a double pumper, not vac secondaries. The vacuum diaphragm you see is a choke pull-off.
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c...tor/hly0/06210
__________________
Mike 1969 Custom/10 LWB -- owned for 37 years. 350/TH350, 3.08 posi, recent AAW wiring harness, 5-lug conversion, 1985 spindles and brakes. Hedman stainless headers. Old Air installation in progress. 1982 Custom Deluxe 10 SWB -- converted from 250-six to roller cam 350 w/ Vortec heads -- sold 1981 C10 Silverado LWB, 305, TH350C -- sold, but wish I still had it! 1969 C10 (not the current one) which I bought in the early 1980s. Paid $1200; sold for $1500 a few years later. Just a hint at the appreciation that was coming. Retired as a factory automation products salesman. Worked part-time over the years for an engine builder and a classic car repair shop. Member here for 26 years! This is the very first car/truck Internet forum I joined. I still used a dial-up modem back then! |
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#13 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2025
Location: Monmouth, OR
Posts: 7
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Re: Some carb advice for a new guy.
Thank you all for the replies. Looks like a new carb is up next. Now I just need to get to the bottom of the Edelbrock vs Holley debate!
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#14 | |
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Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: North Texas
Posts: 4,035
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Re: Some carb advice for a new guy.
Quote:
My favorites have been a Holley VS 650cfm 4150 series, and my truck's current carb--an Edelbrock 650cfm AVS2. Many times the smaller carbs, like a 390cfm Holley cost more than a 600cfm Holley like the 80457. Same is true of an Edelbrock 500 vs 600. If the truth be known, a stock 283 may not draw in enough air to open the secondaries of 600cfm carb, or maybe even a 500. Edit: Have to add that that Edelbrock is often and bolt-on-and-go carb, where all you have to do is set idle speed and idle mixture. Holleys typically need a little more tuning, sometimes squirter, jetting, and power valve changes. There a lots of good resources for learning what components effect various carbs' operations. But the Edelbrock owners manual takes first place.
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Mike 1969 Custom/10 LWB -- owned for 37 years. 350/TH350, 3.08 posi, recent AAW wiring harness, 5-lug conversion, 1985 spindles and brakes. Hedman stainless headers. Old Air installation in progress. 1982 Custom Deluxe 10 SWB -- converted from 250-six to roller cam 350 w/ Vortec heads -- sold 1981 C10 Silverado LWB, 305, TH350C -- sold, but wish I still had it! 1969 C10 (not the current one) which I bought in the early 1980s. Paid $1200; sold for $1500 a few years later. Just a hint at the appreciation that was coming. Retired as a factory automation products salesman. Worked part-time over the years for an engine builder and a classic car repair shop. Member here for 26 years! This is the very first car/truck Internet forum I joined. I still used a dial-up modem back then! Last edited by MikeB; 01-21-2026 at 01:14 PM. |
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#15 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Central Coast Ca.
Posts: 436
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Re: Some carb advice for a new guy.
Well, it was nice to meet you. Leave a trail of crumbs on your way down that rabbit hole.
__________________
1971 SWB step side: Original NM Forestry truck, then NM Fire truck, and now a ranch truck. |
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#16 | |
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Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Jun 2022
Location: San Ramon,CA
Posts: 1,070
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Re: Some carb advice for a new guy.
Quote:
__________________
1970 C10 Custom longbed 350/350 “Carburetors are forgiving, timing is not” — Thunderhead289 |
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#17 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Idaho
Posts: 1,226
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Re: Some carb advice for a new guy.
Looks mint, full race to me
__________________
'81 K20 Silverado , '99 Dodge Cummins 4x4, '05 Dodge Cummins 4x4, No Snivelers "No Lowballers, I know what I got"
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#18 |
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Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: North Texas
Posts: 4,035
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Re: Some carb advice for a new guy.
Well, since he's already got the manifold...
__________________
Mike 1969 Custom/10 LWB -- owned for 37 years. 350/TH350, 3.08 posi, recent AAW wiring harness, 5-lug conversion, 1985 spindles and brakes. Hedman stainless headers. Old Air installation in progress. 1982 Custom Deluxe 10 SWB -- converted from 250-six to roller cam 350 w/ Vortec heads -- sold 1981 C10 Silverado LWB, 305, TH350C -- sold, but wish I still had it! 1969 C10 (not the current one) which I bought in the early 1980s. Paid $1200; sold for $1500 a few years later. Just a hint at the appreciation that was coming. Retired as a factory automation products salesman. Worked part-time over the years for an engine builder and a classic car repair shop. Member here for 26 years! This is the very first car/truck Internet forum I joined. I still used a dial-up modem back then! |
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#19 | |
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Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Tucson, AZ USA
Posts: 8,115
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Re: Some carb advice for a new guy.
Quote:
Great carburetor. I ran a Holley 4160, R8007, 390 CFM for 25 years, but it was always a pain -- blowing out power valves at every backfire, and needing constant tuning. The Carter AFB design is much better for me.
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Every 25 years I like to rebuild that 292, whether it needs it or not. |
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#20 |
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Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Jun 2022
Location: San Ramon,CA
Posts: 1,070
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Re: Some carb advice for a new guy.
Yah, I'm just being a troll
__________________
1970 C10 Custom longbed 350/350 “Carburetors are forgiving, timing is not” — Thunderhead289 |
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#21 |
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One of the First
![]() Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: St. Augustine,FL.
Posts: 4,075
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Re: Some carb advice for a new guy.
Advice: Carbs are not plug and play. You will need to dial them in. Combination of jets, needles, timing and I use a Air/Fuel sensor with gauge.
Or periodically, you get lucky and they work for your set-up right out of the box.
__________________
DAVID PASSMORE ST AUGUSTINE ,FL ZIP 32084 '71 SWB K/10 CUSTOM DELUXE (Chili) '72 BLAZER K/5 Muscle Truck (Mule) '72 LWB K/20 CHEYENNE (Blackie) |
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#22 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Chattanooga, TN
Posts: 2,260
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Re: Some carb advice for a new guy.
I don't have much to add. 650 double pumper is way too much for a 283 as said. I'm a Holley guy so I would lean that way BUT a properly built Quadrabog-I mean Quadrajet-is a very fine carb when done right. If you can find a reputable shop to build/sell you one that may be the way to go. Auto Zone used to sell Holley USA rebuilt Q-jets but the quality has gone downhill as I think they are not done in KY any more. I'm going to throw out a new one. Do you really need a 4bbl? What about a Holley 500 cfm 2 bbl? Would depend on how that intake is configured but might work.
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'83 K20-TPI '73 C10 '79 C10-ex-diesel(SOLD) '07 Tahoe(Son driving) '14 Suburban-DD '71 C10-current project |
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#23 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: St Peters, MO
Posts: 527
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Re: Some carb advice for a new guy.
Just to add what Mike B. said, I use the Edelbrock AVS2 with its annular flow primaries. They are relatively easy to tune. No cold start issues at all. I see there's a 500CFM version (Model 1901 or manual choke 1902), so that would probably do the trick. Reviews look good. But, as always, it's easy to spend other people's money! Looks like they're still made in the USA too.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-1901 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-1902
__________________
1967 C20, 350 SBC w/Comp roller cam, 700R4 w/3.42 posi, PS, 4-wheel PDB, Old Air AC & GM Tilt column. Last edited by tim_mc; 01-24-2026 at 09:26 PM. |
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#24 |
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Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Tucson, AZ USA
Posts: 8,115
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Re: Some carb advice for a new guy.
The difference between the old Carter AVS and Edelbrock's new AVS2 is in the Metering Rods and Jets. Carter's AVS used three-stage Rods and Jets -- allowing mid-range tuning.
The Edelbrock AVS2 uses the same two-stage style Rods and Jets that are used on their Performer [AFB Clone.] AFIK 3-stage Rods and Jets have entirely disappeared.
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Every 25 years I like to rebuild that 292, whether it needs it or not. |
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#25 |
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Ram-A-Lam-A-Ding-Dong
![]() Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Simi Valley, CA
Posts: 11,899
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Re: Some carb advice for a new guy.
Not sure what you mean by 3-stage metering rods. I bought an AVS2 and a calibration kit (slight surging at part throttle). The rods in the kit are small at the tip, taper, and further up have a step. I suspect that that largest diameter doesn't actually enter the jet, given the carburetor configuration? I haven't changed anything yet, as it's a real mother female dog to get up there when I'm using a cane. At least I got the carb on and the truck running.
__________________
~Steven '70 Chevy 3/4T Longhorn CST 402/400/3.56 Custom Camper Simi Valley, CA |
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